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Current Replies for Window re-bed
question Window re-bed (VernonSailor)
Posted: 11:01:39 pm on 8/27/2013 Modified: Never
I am planning to re-bed the windows on my MK V and plan to try the Sikaflex 295 method described in the Black Arts.

In reading the Sikaflex materials on line they mention placing spacers between the window and the frames to avoid squeezing too much material out. There is no mention of this in the Black Arts article.

To space or not to space, that is my question. Does anyone have any experience with this.

Also the Black Arts article mentions that the Sikaflex sets up in 10 minutes and the temporary framing may not be required? Any feedback on that?

Rob Ladan _/)
Airborne ll MK V #520
Vernon Yacht Club, Vernon BC
  Re: Window re-bed (davidww1)
Posted: 9:44:27 pm on 8/28/2013 Modified: Never
The Black Arts article was written about a year after the Sikaflex product appeared. The manufacturer probably revised its instructions based on experience in the field some time after we did our work, because I don't remember any mention of spacers. About five years later, both are still intact.

Both Kathy and I were re-mounting flat pieces of plexi, so if you are careful, I can't see that spacers are essential. On the other hand, I can see that if you were mounting a curved piece, such as the side windows, exerting an even pressure without them could be difficult. There would be a tendency to squeeze material excessively at the centre of the curve, so spacers would give assurance of a better bond.

If they don't make a specific recommendation, I'd look at those clear plastic discs or domes that hardware stores sell as bumpers for kitchen doors. They're small, they're clear and they're self-adhesive and so easy to handle.

I don't think I could hold something absolutely immobile for 10 minutes; I could, however, make the framing in 10 minutes, and apply it in one or two. It's insurance that the plexi won't move and spoil the bond; your decision.

Please let us know how it works out so the article can be revised if necessary.

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV

  Re: Window re-bed (Steve Reid)
Posted: 10:06:09 pm on 8/29/2013 Modified: Never
It's been my experiance that anytime you are bedding (sealing) anything on a boat and trying to get a good weathertight seal it's best to apply a minimum of pressure untill the sealant has cured. If you are putting a fitting down on the deck or similar it's best to tighten the fasteners only hand tight untill the sealant cures, then snug it down.
Seems the same principal applies to bedding your windows. On the Mark V the windows form a structural part of the cabin top and therefore must be properly supported and installed. They also by their very nature must be able to "float" while in position. Just the same as the windshield in your car has to "float" otherwise it would fracture as the car expands and contracts or twists as it drives down the road.

Steve Reid
Still Knot Working Mark V #75
  Re: Window re-bed (Brian Lagerquist)
Posted: 6:54:35 pm on 10/24/2013 Modified: 8:10:42 pm on 10/24/2013
I just wrote an article for GAM sailing magazine and it should be out shortly.
I have installed a total of 7 windows on Mark V's, so, I would be glad to help you out.
Please email me at [deleted] and we can communicate and I can send pictures to you.

Engine installed works great see Black Arts. New Engine for Redeeded. The following is the original post........I have a C&C27 Mark V which was brought up from Maryland. I believe the Yanmar 1GM10 was exposed to salt water. The engine is very noisy, vibrates more than I like (have folding prop and know when it is open fully) and to me is not very environmentally friendly. I have just purchase a Beta Marine BZ482 (13.9HP) which is built in England. The engine is about the same size and weights a little less. Question: Does anyone have any experience with re-powering their boat. If so, would you be willing to share your experience with me.

Brian - BYC - "Redeemed" 1985 Mark V

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