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After 34 years it seems the time has come to clean the fuel tank on my 1979 Mk111. It would appear that the tank could have been installed in the hull before the deck was added and if so, it may not be able to be removed through the locker opening. On the other hand, perhaps it can be turned and manoeuvred out. It looks like a "tight fit". The tank is a rectangular aluminum " box".
Cleaning would be easier off the boat if the tank can be removed but before I disconnect everything and attempt removal the tank, has anyone been able to do that on a Mk111 ?
Clare Jordan. Aragorn |
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Hi Clare I pulled my rectangular tank three years ago for cleaning and inspection. However, it required me to remove the elbow to which the filler hose is affixed -- after siphoning every drop of gas and then letting it sit open for a few days to let any lingering vapours dissipate. Also removed the measurement arm, etc. Was able to remove the tank easily by rotating it 90 degrees on its horizontal axis, which makes it narrower and obviates any need to remove the locker wood trim. Hope that's clear. Reinstallation was essentially a reversal of the procedure except that I was able to leave the filler elbow attached. Best.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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Thanks Ken, for your advice.
Although the filler elbow on my tank could not be removed , the tank did come out after trimming about 3/8" from the inside edge of the teak strip for a couple of inches to accommodate the passage of the filler elbow. It was still "tight" but do-able. Surprisingly, the tank is not terribly dirty but now that it's out, I'll do the clean-up and re-install it next spring.
Clare Jordan Aragorn |
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In response to your other note, direct to my email, the filler elbow on my tank is indeed removable. Makes life a lot easier.
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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For what it's worth, removal of the teak trim around the lockers is quite easy. About eight screws hold it in place from underneath (no plugs, etc.), and after you undo them, the trim pops off.
I was all set to cut back the fibreglass edge of the opening to pull my tank out, when I realized it wasn't necessary as the tank was cleaner than expected. Once the teak was back in place, the trimming of the glass would have been unnoticeable.
Nice when a job is simpler than expected.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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I pulled off the teak trims this spring, and found there were bedded in sealant so water doesn't leak inside if it gets underneath the locker lids. Removal was trick and damaged the really dried out teak a lot as well as the fibreglass.
I pulled my tank a few years ago and removed the aluminum elbow which looked to be a McGyver'd fitting. Replaced it with a 1.5" copper sweat adapter, soldered to a copper elbow before reinstall. Works great.
Dan Martis
Dream Catcher
Oakville, Ontario
Mark 3, Hull #636 |
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| To separate two parts that have sealant between them, pull a strand of wire (an unlaid strand of dinghy shroud is perfect) between the two pieces. The sealant is almost always the line of least resistance, and the wire will slit it without damaging either bonding face. Also, most sealants (including 5200) weaken or break in the presence of acetone.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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Well I didn't remove my teak trim strips as I had the engine out this summer. I replaced the original aluminum tank with a Moeller plastic 19 USGAL tank (26"L x 16"W x 11.75"H) ... and it does fit in the locker opening. I used the Moeller brackets to secure the tank but I had to make up a wider plywood base for the tank to allow screwing down the brackets ... and I enlarged the opening in the bulkhead a bit and cut an opening under the galley sink in the side of the cabinet to access the fwd bracket on the inboard side. The fwd one on the outboard side I screwed in before installing the tank. These tanks have to sit on a couple strips of neoprene and you have to leave some wiggle room for tank expansion.
I must say the old tank was in quite good condition. I just sold it for $100.North Saanich, B.C. |
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Hello van_Isle
Thanks for photo. I have same swap in mind.
Did you replace fuel gauge and wiring while you were at it?
Steve
1981 MkIII, Hull 886
Etobicoke YC, Toronto ON |
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| The tank came with a new sender. The PO had replaced the fuel gauge with a Faria unit just recently. It works fine with the Moeller gauge. The only thing I did was to clean-up the ground and sending wires (crimped on and heat-shrink new connectors). North Saanich, B.C. |
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In process of pulling my tank (MkIII w A4). I find that it will come out AFTER I cut off the elbow that attaches to filler hose. That is tomorrow's project and I plan to saw very sloooowly by hand so no sparks. Tank is 99% empty having sucked out fuel using a spare fuel pump and outlet hose into a gas can.
New Moeller (smaller version) is ready in the wings. Steve
1981 MkIII, Hull 886
Etobicoke YC, Toronto ON |
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Steve, you said " I plan to saw very sloooowly - no sparks" .
That sounds a bit like a tombstone epitaph that I once read. It said , " Hold my beer and watch this"
I wonder if you should fill the tank with water before sawing?
Clare Jordan. Aragorn |
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Thanks Clare
Good suggestion - but looks like i survived (this time).
I will add ample water when i transport the old tank the to Hazmat disposal facility. Steve
1981 MkIII, Hull 886
Etobicoke YC, Toronto ON |
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