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  First Haulout Plan (Van_Isle)
Posted: 4:11:05 pm on 6/3/2014 Modified: Never
The boat is out of the water (79 C&C 27 MkIII) and this is the first haulout for me. I've had the boat for about 1-1/2 years (circumstances didn't allow for a haul out last spring).

1) I have 3 or 4 blisters to deal with in the bilge area. There was no evidence of blisters when it was hauled for pre-purchase survey.
2) A bit of a C&C smile ... see picture: .... and it appears that someone did some work there when it was last hauled out. Whatever they used as a filler is somewhat brittle.
3) Multiple layers of bottom paint ... in 3 different colours. Numerous areas where it has all sloughed off. The previous owner also attempted to paint antifouling over the original boot stripe and add a tape stripe above it. Neither the paint nor the tape stuck (I've managed to remove all the tape and adhesive).
4) The through hulls appear to be original (flush mount for cockpit drains, galley and head sink drains and mushroom head for the engine intake, head intake and head discharge). The backing plates are wood (several are punky). Ball valves directly threaded onto the through hulls (and at least the cockpit drains are clearly marked 'solid brass'!!). The flush mount through hulls are those large diameter C&C type that don't have a currently available match (far as I can find).
5) Regarding the blisters and the 'smile' ... my bilge has been wet this past winter. I tracked down a couple leaks at toerail stanchions and think I have fixed those.

So, the plan:

a) Take the bottom paint off completely, to start 'with a clean slate' and check for any further signs of blisters.
b) I was thinking of a barrier coat but reading West Systems recommendations, they say if you have a couple blisters then fix them ... don't barrier coat ... and monitor.
c) Grind out the old crap and refill the 'smile' with West Systems G/Flex. Re-torque the keel bolts once the boat is back in the water. Hopefully this, plus my toerail repairs will get me back to a dry bilge (and go a long way to reducing
d) Replace the through hull valves with proper flanged seacocks and fiberglass backing plates. I'm trying to get the old flush mount through hulls out without damage in order to clean them up and hopefully reuse them. Otherwise, the only thing I can think of is to fill the recess with epoxy and go to mushroom style. I will upsize the engine intake and head intake to 3/4 inch so I can use seacocks.

Comments? Suggestions?

North Saanich, B.C.

  Re: First Haulout Plan (bosco)
Posted: 7:55:59 pm on 6/3/2014 Modified: Never
Hey !  An ambitious plan.
I have a sister ship to yours and I agree with your plan re: bottom treatment and blister repairs. Back in 1987 when Andy Wiggers Boatyard painted Aragorn, we stripped the bottom back to the gelcoat and found no evidence of blisters. Wiggers advice at that time---" if you don't have blisters  after 8 years , you aren't going to get them now". His theory was that in the 70's when boats were laid up by hand, there were very few voids in the glasswork =  reduced chance of osmosis. We simple coated the bottom with VC-17 and have continued with that each Spring for the last 27 years --- no blisters have ever appeared .
Clare Jordan. Aragorrn
  Re: First Haulout Plan (Van_Isle)
Posted: 2:01:10 pm on 6/4/2014 Modified: Never
Well I got a couple of the valves off and through hulls taken out. A Groco step wrench and bit of heat with a heat gun worked well.

Seems that, with the exception of one Forespar Marelon valve on the head intake, all the valves on board are brass. The engine intake and both sink drains are Toto Red and White ball valves and as I mentioned before the two cockpit drains are BII 'Forged Brass' ball valves. Pink is a bad color ... right?

North Saanich, B.C.

  Re: First Haulout Plan (davidww1)
Posted: 12:54:31 pm on 6/4/2014 Modified: Never
Pink - no zinc, so your brass has turned to the corroded remnants of copper. V. bad.

There is an extended discussion of the virtues and vices of bronze vs Marelon seacocks (cost, difficulty of fitting, etc.) called "Plastic vs Brass-through hulls". Search will find it. The interesting part of the thread is that while several of the people were convinced of the practical value of Marelon (and its price), the principal author of the thread was deterred by the time-cost of adapting the opening for the Marelon seacock and opted for bronze as an effectively drop-in replacement.

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV

  Re: First Haulout Plan (ibanezplayer)
Posted: 1:56:57 pm on 6/6/2014 Modified: Never
"The flush mount through hulls are those large diameter C&C type that don't have a currently available match (far as I can find)."


I made a new set of flush mount through hulls for OGOPOGO when I refitted them a few seasons ago. Just took new bronze flush mounts of the appropriate size and threw them in the lathe and turned down the thicker than original flange to the same size as C&C had, ensuring to leave a nice radius on the transition.

They had a slightly different profile so some fairing putty was used in the recess in the hull.

I think I started with Perko through hulls which I modified, I can help you out with this if you'd like.

  Re: First Haulout Plan (Van_Isle)
Posted: 4:53:26 pm on 6/6/2014 Modified: Never
Thanks for the offer. I was noticing a couple of the plastic 'cups' behind the flush mount heads are deteriorated and brittle (I'm assuming these were placed during hull layup to provide the recess for the through hulls). I'll have to dig those out so I'm thinking of just filling the recesses and mounting mushroom head through hulls. Looks like the PO did that for the head discharge. So I'm looking at filling either way. I may also be able to re-use a couple of the original through hulls. One has damaged threads but others look good. I'd only re-use through hulls with a Groco flange adapter for thread match-up and protection. I'd have to use fiberglass backing plates with studs ... not through bolts ... since the through hull flanges are so large, and any through bolt would be in or near the filled area which I imagine would not be the best thing.

North Saanich, B.C.

  Re: First Haulout Plan (Van_Isle)
Posted: 3:01:12 pm on 9/30/2014 Modified: Never
High time I updated this thread!  I'll have to add some photos of the process, but this is what we ended up doing:

1. Stripped all anti-fouling off, down to bare fiberglass. We used multiple applications of Franmar Soy-strip followed by much scraping and then orbital palm sander to get the last of it off.
2. We discovered a total of 10 blisters. All repaired with West System.
3. Fixed the C&C smile with West System G-Flex.
4. Took the keel down to bare lead. Epoxy coated it.
5. All the recesses for the flush-mount through-hulls were filled with west system and new Groco mushroom-style thru-hulls installed with new Groco valves and tailpieces. Used 3/4-inch marine ply for backing plates, coated in West System epoxy. In the end I didn't use the Groco flange-adapters, in part being concerned that drilling the through-bolts would punch-out the filling we had accomplished for the new thru-hulls. The Grocos are combination thread and they seem to seat quite deeply into the new valves. If I had used fiberglass for the backing plates I could have utilized bronze studs and not thru-bolted. I agonized quite a bit over the options. In the end, due to lack of time to do hand-layup of my own backing plates and poor availability of local fiberglass sheet ... I went with the epoxy coated ply. Each backing plate is about 5-inches in diameter and shaped to fit the hull and planed-down to ensure that the minimum amount of thru-hull thread is exposed. All the thru-hulls and backing plates were bedded in Sikaflex 291.
6. Repaired the trailing edge tip of the rudder, which the PO had munched on something.
7. Pulled and re-bedded the depth and speed transducers. Installed a new paddlewheel in the speed transducer and made a new fairing block for the depth transducer out of epoxy.
8. Applied 5 coats of Interlux Interprotect 2000 barrier coat.
9. Pulled the shaft (THAT was fun!). Installed a new PSS dripless shaft seal, new cutlass bearing and new Moyer split engine coupling.
10. 2 coats of ablative anti-fouling(Petit)over one coat of hard anti-fouling as a signal coat.
11. Renamed the boat ... complete with appropriate re-naming ceremony.

... and spent about 3 days scrubbing the boatyard grime off the deck and out of the interior!

North Saanich, B.C.