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Mike. According to C&C plans and Rob Mazza you should have four keel bolts. The most forward one is approximately one foot aft the mast compression post. On my MK 2 I had to cut a hole in the cabin sole to access it. Try running your hand forward from what you are assuming is the most forward bolt. As far as torquing, the values are in Black Arts. Be careful not to over torque because because of possible keel bolt failure. As far as pulling the nut and caulking underneath, intuitively this should not work because the leaks is outside and you are caulking inside. I have no experience with torquing the bolts, but when the card checked mine it was with the boat out of water resting on the keel ard jack stands. Maybe fill the smile as David Weatherston did. Hope this helps.
R McCall
Water Rat Mark 2.
FYC
J Netherland
1974 Mk II, Water Rat
Fairhope Yacht Club
Fairhope, Alabama
Being a member of a club which has a 3 ton hoist but no frame or slings sturdy enough to lift my boat, I talked to Rob Mazza and with his encouragement constructed a bridle which used two keel bolts as attachment points and lifted the boat easily enabling me to do a bottom job. If anyone is interested I can give the details and supplies. Total cost of parts was $100 US.
J Netherland
1974 Mk II, Water Rat
Fairhope Yacht Club
Fairhope, Alabama
[Now covered in this page. - Admin]
Allan
What is your price? And question for you or General membership: does the rudder from a Mark 3 fit a Mark 2 with no modifications (ie is rudder stock appropriate length) I guess what I am asking is this a simple drop in replacement or are there modifications necessary?)
Thanks for any information).
Sandy McCall
J Netherland
1974 Mk II, Water Rat
Fairhope Yacht Club
Fairhope, Alabama
Thanks Ken I appreciate the information. Nice thing about this group is nine times out of ten someone has the experience or information needed.
J Netherland
1974 Mk II, Water Rat
Fairhope Yacht Club
Fairhope, Alabama
Ken. I neve really answered your question. I plan to continue to run all rope, thus the need to change or modify the sheaves. Youe expertise with sizes would be appreciated.
J Netherland
1974 Mk II, Water Rat
Fairhope Yacht Club
Fairhope, Alabama
Thanks Marcus for the suggestion. I would still be interested in the sheave sizes in case my local machine shop is not as helpful as Klacko.
J Netherland
1974 Mk II, Water Rat
Fairhope Yacht Club
Fairhope, Alabama
I am presently running all rope, which I realize isn't great, but when I bought the boat and stepped the mast I overlooked the sheave problem. Any help will be appreciated so hopefully when I drop the mast again I can correct my oversight. Unfortunately (or fortunately) we sail year round so don't really have a hard date for pulling although will probably do it some time this winter to be ready for spring racing.
J Netherland
1974 Mk II, Water Rat
Fairhope Yacht Club
Fairhope, Alabama
I am presently running all rope, which I realize isn't great, but when I bought the boat and stepped the mast I overlooked the sheave problem. Any help will be appreciated so hopefully when I drop the mast again I can correct my oversight. Unfortunately (or fortunately) we sail year round so don't really have a hard date for pulling although will probably do it some time this winter to be ready for spring racing.
J Netherland
1974 Mk II, Water Rat
Fairhope Yacht Club
Fairhope, Alabama
I know there has been discussion in past forums as to replacing the rope to wire sheaves, but I cannot find any mention of sheave sizes. If anyone knows, I would appreciate it so that I could have the sheaves prior to pulling my mast for replacement of the original sheaves.
Thanks
J Netherland
1974 Mk II, Water Rat
Fairhope Yacht Club
Fairhope, Alabama
Allan. What Mark is your rudder? Contemplating replacing my Mk2 rudder as discussed in previous forum entries. Also price?
Thanks
J Netherland
1974 Mk II, Water Rat
Fairhope Yacht Club
Fairhope, Alabama
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