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Before you go through the BIG job of rebedding you might just try tightening the current fastners. This can be done in a few hours by having someone on deck holding the screw bolts in place while another person below tightens the nuts (Doing it this way is recommended so as to not disturb the seal between the bolts and the deck). This often slows and may even stop toe-rail leaks and it is a MUCH easier process. It will probably squeeze out some of the butyl (the gummy sealing strip) that will need to be cleaned from the outside of the boat.
There is also the possibility of leaking between the deck and hull to consider. Rebedding the toe-rail will not replace the seal between here and so the leaking problem may not be solved. And, obviously, redoing the deck-hull joint is a job no one wants to approach.
Gord
Kat's Paw I, Toronto. ON
That's not a lot of info to go on. Most rudders of the C&C 27 age absorb water, When you take the boat out of the water, the water in the rudder will run out. There's not a lot you can do about it on a permanent basis other than rebuild them. To decide if it's an actionable issue, you need to consider other issues:
- Are there obvious hollows under the fibreglass skin?
- Do other boats in your area exhibit comparable signs or is it just you?
- Is the glass skin shaky on the shaft?
- Does it bug you?
In other words, if it's normal for your area, this is an idle inquiry and you're just looking for reassurance, forget it. If this is anomalous and you're really concerned, you're going to have to split the rudder and look inside.
David Weatherston
"Towser", Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt">n" size=3>A new regatta is coming to Toronto this summer. Sailing World’s NOOD Regattas is holding their first Canadian NOOD Regatta at the Royal Canadian Yacht Club, in cooperation with Ashbridges Bay and National Yacht Clubs, from June 25 to June 27, 2004.n" size=3>
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If we can bring at least 6 boats to the start line, we will be given our own level division and beyond that, the more the merrier!!
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There will also be much merriment back at the docks post racing.
Among other things, this will be a great lead-in/warm-up for the always excellent C & C Owners’ Regatta at NYC the following weekend.
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If you have a race calendar going, please add this special event to it. If you don’t have a calendar going, this would be a great place to start!! There are lots of us out there so let’s get together and help make this initiative a success on the Canadian side of the border.
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For further info, please contact Kathleen Timmis (Kat’s-Paw I) 416-366-5100 and/or the RCYC at 416-967-7245 and ask for the Sailing Office and/or see <A href="http://www.rcyc.ca">www.rcyc.ca</A> and/or <A href="http://www.sailingworld.com">www.sailingworld.com</A>.
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Hope to see you on the water!
In support of Bob's claim: Larger boats, such as J-35's, use fraculators as described to good effect.
Oh, by the way, Kat's-Paw (and I'm pretty sure Yogi Bear, too) will be flying spinnaker (we need to in order to maintain our standings in the LORC ratings). I suspect this may be a further issue - the divide between spinnaker and white sail. On the plus side - all Mk's may be racing together on a level rating. Can anyone confirm this?
Gord.
Hi,
Kat's-Paw (Mark III) will be there, too.
Gord.
<A href="mailto:yotdoc@mac.com">k slater</A>
Is this yacht still for sale and if so does she have any delamination problems?
<A href="mailto:kmoore82@cogeco.ca">kieron Moore</A>
Hello. I am at present in the market for a C&C 27. Is there any chance that I can obtain further info on this boat either at the above e-mail address, or by fax at
(905) 374-3164.
Many thanks .Kieron Moore
<A href="mailto:davejean@cheqnet.net">David</A>
For Sale: C&C 27 Mark 1 in absolutly excellent condition.It is on a beautiful over-the-road trailer also in excellent condition. The boat saw very little use from the previous,long term owner. The boat has many,many new items,( by new I mean never been used).The trailer has brand new tire.The vessel has two new opening ports,one by the galley and one above the ice box.There is all new standing rigging,new halyards,a new power inverter,a new bow roller,a new Delta plow anchor,new anchor rode,new spice rack,new chart rack,a new anchor light,two new Sumbrella foredeck jib bags,New Sumbrella BBQ cover,and a 12 volt monitering meter. The boat has many sails in good condition,wisker pole,a VHF radio,even a new TV!!When the previous owner had passed away the boat was in storage for years.It truly looks excellent. The engine is extremely clean,it looks like new.Before I purchased the boat the shop at the marina had did a compression check on the engine and by the specs it checked out as good as a new one! The boat can be launched off of the trailer and of course, you could take the boat home for the winter to save money on winter storage fees. The boat is presently at my house.The boat is adjacent to Lake Superior. I am asking $14,900.U.S. My email is davejean@cheqnet.net or call me at (715)372 5633
The trailer has four brand new tires,not just one..
1972 Hull # 93 C&C 27 Mk 1 for sale. Rare wheel steering, white hull with red boot stripe, c/w ultra furling gear, autohelm 4000, autohelm bidata-depth & knot log, bulkhead compass, genco dodger and handrail, sunshade, screened enclosure, rain flaps-back and sides, Nova cool refrigeration [ 2000 ],VHF, Am/fm cassette radio, Atomic 4 gas, battery isolator switch, shore power, new head [2002], galley and head foot pumps, anchor c/w chain, bumpers, stern ladder and folding steel cradle. Asking $26,000 Lying N.O.L.S.C.
Call Howard Nesbitt-905 682-7440
<A href="mailto:garyc@isys.ca">gary</A>
Im in the process of doing the same thing and from previous experiences with other boats it also works well just behind the keel. This location means not running wiring thru the bilge shortwer wiring runs and if you mount it just behind the "retaining wall" that stops stuff from the caukpit lockers from falling into the bilge it is well protected. Im installing an eagle fish finder type as we also do some salmon fishing up here in the north channel of lake huron. good luck----Gary
<A href="mailto:bayerair@on.aibn.com">Larry Bayer</A>
I left mine in the same location due to ease of installation. It also gets the least amount of hoppy horsing there probably.
Larry
<A href="mailto:bpeever@townoflincoln.com">Bruce Peever</A>
I'm replacing my 70's vintage instruments with Standard Horizon. The old transducer placement was on the port side of the keel underneath the forward dinette seat. The old knotmeter transducer is next to the keel and the old depth meter transducer a further 8" off. Literature talks about the preferred location being forward of the keel, but I can't see that on the CC 27. What is the optimum location for these transducers on the CC27.
<A href="mailto:fred.butler@shaw.ca">Fred Butler</A>
If we am to believe this website, there should be no confusion as to whether we are talking about a Mark III or Mark IV, or a Mark V. If it was indeed manufactured in 1984, it must be a Mark V, as the Mark IIIs were produced to 1981 and the IVs to 1982 (see C&C 27 Profile and Description).
If it is a Mark V, it is a completely different boat from all the previous C&C 27, and can't even be fairly compared. It is about one foot shorter LOA and is beamier, length to beam ratio and the sail plan is also totally different (I tried a Mark V genny on my Mark III and it was so much smaller as to be useless). It tends to be faster than the older 27s when the wind pipes up but can be beat handily by the older 27s in light airs.
Both boats, in my mind, are very good and will provide lots of good fun on the water.
Fred
<A href="mailto:jcwente@rogers.com">Jim Wente</A>
Well, I own a 1985 C&C 27 - and we call it a MKV in Ontario! I agree, watch for core rot around the mast, and around the baby stay. Also look for rot at the base of the forward wood bulkhead - when the baby-stay leaks the water runs to the base of the bulkhead. We have MKVs with and without the intermediate shrouds at our club, and it doesn't seem to matter much in terms of performance. C&C did produce a MKV version with a shoal draft which has a shorter rig. They are for cruising only, and will not perform as well upwind.
Look for leaks at the corners of the windows, and check the underside of the cabin top for leaks(there is a peel-away access cover). But don't be put-off by a few problems - they are great boats!
<A href="mailto:talwolf@hotmail.com">TalW</A>
All Mk III/V's (ha ha!) had the same rig size:
I=35'6", J=10'1", P=30'6", E=10'9"
FYI, there were 2 different rig configs available. I think both had the same mast size, extrusion, & spreader locations, but one had an additional set of intermediate shrouds (D2's) that went from the spreader tip to a point about halfway up the rest of the mast. I've never heard of a PHRF adjustment for rig type & don't know of an actual comparison between the 2, but I can only imagine that the config with D2 shroud's improve mast stiffness...
The boat's not a light air flyer, but it's OK in 5 knots & fine in 8+ knots...
Cheers,
Tal ../)../)..
<A href="mailto:pakek@aol.com">PaulAK</A>
Thanks for your replies- both very helpful. When I first saw the listing for the boat, I was confused as well as I had previously seen the production dates and it didn't really make sense to me. I haven't seen it in person yet, so I can't comment on its condition. One question...would this boat still have the tall rig or not?
TalW
A few clarifications...
Outside of the Great Lakes (& we're not the centre of the sailing universe!), the 80's 27 is indeed known as the Mk III. If you think about it logically, what we call a Mk II is really just a Mk I with a tall rig (that'd be 27-1 TR in PHRFspeak!), the Mk III's really a Mk II (due to it's unique hull, deck, appendages, & rig), & that'd make the 80's boat a Mk III... That's where the confusion comes from!
Most PHRF districts in North America use the ideology I've identified. Confusing? Yep!! David, what exactly do you suggest one call a Mk V if it "won't even be what we generally refer to as a 27"??
Paul, from my observations of 80's 27's (how's that for political correctness?), I'd agree with David's observations. Pay particular attention to the cabintop around the babystay chainplate (between the forward hatch & the maststep), the cabintop near the companionway (which I've seen damage due to flexing on more than one example), & the stanchion bases. Also, be sure to inspect the bulkhead attachment to the hull.
Like many C&C designs, a well maintained (or aggressively priced!) 80's 27 is a good example of a racer/cruiser of it's vintage. It doesn't have the following the older 27's do, but it's a good boat nonetheless!
Cheers,
Tal ../)../)..
David Weatherston
If it's an '84, it won't be a Mk III. In fact, it won't even be what we generally refer to as a 27. An '84 would probably be a Mk IV, which is a different boat altogether (distinguished most easily by an outboard rudder).
With any C&C, watch for core delamination caused by water entry (failure to keep fittings caulked). Also, I have seen deckstepped boats from C&C with cracks in the main bulkhead where the door goes through. This was caused by rough usage, so look for other signs of damage.
<A href="mailto:pakek@aol.com">PaulAK</A> Hi- I'm considering purchasing an '84 C&C 27 MKIII. It'll be my first boat and will be sailed off the Eastern end of Long Island. I've lookes over alot of postings on this and other sites regaring the 27 and have a basic idea of what to watch for, but any other thoughts on what I should look for when I look at the boat would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
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