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Iris. Is the alcohol you refer to "methyl hydrate"? Thanks
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
I don't know what it is about wasps and boats. When I was looking at my boat before buying it had been laid up for over a year and had a yellow jacket nest in the coiled mainsheet!
Good luck with Snow Goose.
Cheers
Greg
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
I just bought my 27 last fall. In searching for C&C 27s through Yachtworld the last couple of years, it looked like "Snow Goose" was for sale for a year or 2 and in all the pictures it was on the hard. My boat was also laid up for a couple of years and although it was in decent shape it took a lot of cleaning up.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
What kind of pour in insulation did you use? Sounds like it would be useful even if just to improve the ice box.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
I removed the old vinyl registration numbers from my Mk 1 this spring. On the advice of a couple of people who have done this before, I just worked on an edge of each piece with a putty knife and slowly peeled it off. I suppose a hair dryer might have helped, but it went OK. The remains I took off with oven cleaner which doesn't harm the gel coat. Also used it to take off painted letters.
Greg Tokarz, Nepenthe, Mk1 Hull #73
A hair dryer does indeed help (this, incidentally, is how this is done by car dealers, who are always having to remove labels and from whom I learned this trick). If you get the temp just right, you can peel the label off with just your fingers and the glue tends to stay on the letters. Moveover, leftover glue is more receptive to removing chemicals when warm. - Admin
On my MK1, the track starts 8" above the mast step, but is 72" long. Which seems a bit excessive. I can't imagine needing that much adjustment. Right now the car is set at 46" above the bottom of the track.Greg Tokarz
Nepenthe Mk1
Hull #75
Ken. I'll be on the boat this evening and will do some measurements. It's a Mk 1 but could provide a point of reference. GregGreg Tokarz
Nepenthe Mk1
Hull #75
Thanks Michael.
By the way, just got your email (had some problems with my email the last couple of weeks). Don't bother with the expense of sending the article on Garhauer (reason to become apparent).
As an update on my search for a traveler system. I returned to the supplier's shop on Saturday. 2 glitches: 1) he didn't have the system I wanted in his catalogue - he had quoted an a different system, but more importantly 2) he said delivery could be up to 3 months. I guess I will not be buying a Garhauer.
After that news, I went to 2 other chandleries to get quotes - neither was very helpful. I guess I won't be ordering through them, whatever the manufacturer I end up with.
GregGreg Tokarz
Nepenthe
Mk1, Hull #75
Thanks Ken.
I'd appreciate that. My email is on my profile
Greg
Greg Tokarz
Nepenthe
Mk1, Hull #75
Ken.
I assume by "soviet" you mean heavily built. From all I've read (including the Practical Sailor article), they are tough systems. Also, there was some discussion in a sailing forum (SailNet?) on the quality of their blocks.
I got a quote of $400 for a complete traveler system including track, end stops, car and all blocks. That contrasts with the Harken system that West Marine quoted at $795. Unless I hear any reasons against, I think I'll go with the Garhauer.
Greg
Greg Tokarz
Nepenthe
Mk1, Hull #75
Thanks Pyrite.
I would appreciate seeing a photo or 2 of the traveler installation. You can send it to me or as suggested post it on the Black Arts page.
Re the location of the cleats - I see your point about the cleat being on the car and not interfering with the locker doors. My thought about the system with the cleat at each end of the track is that it would be easier for crew to adjust when tacking when racing.
By the way, what chandlery did you use?
Greg
Greg Tokarz
Nepenthe
Mk1, Hull #75
Thanks. I was thinking that isolating the dissimilar metals would be a solution and allow the use of an aluminum backing plate.
Greg Tokarz
Nepenthe
Mk1, Hull #75
">I’ve read through the discussions in the forum and the black arts section on replacing and relocating the traveller on my Mk 1. I need to replace the traveller itself - it has seen better days. I would like to relocate it to the bridgedeck a la Mk III. I have a few issues I am trying to resolve before doing this and spending $ on a new system, so if anyone has any input it would be appreciated:</SPAN>
">- I have been looking at different systems. I know Harken seems to be most popular on the forum. However, I was looking at a Garhauer system - the MT-2TP - <A href="http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=34">http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=34</A> - which seems similar, has a double track, recirculating ball car, is less expensive (about 60%) and has a 10 year warranty. Any experience with Garhauer?</SPAN>
">- The mainsheet will have to be relocated part way up the boom. It would make sense that the new attachment would be more or less directly above the traveller. Is this correct? Would I still be able to use my dodger?</SPAN>
">- The system I am looking at has the lines feeding aft through a cam cleat at each end of the traveller. This seems to me to be a reasonable compromise solution for me (day sailing, cruising with some racing thrown in) and so it can be adjusted by crew or helmsman. </SPAN>
">- I notice that the backing plates in the black arts examples are aluminum. Is this a good idea with steel screws.</SPAN>
">Thanks</SPAN>
If the track is well bedded, the dissimilar metals shouldn't make a significant difference. If they were underwater, it would be an issue. - Admin