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Mike: thanks for the input. I'm convinced there's got to be a better way to apportion space in the galley. The icebox is ridiculously huge. One thing I'm wondering is if anyone knows of a source for preformed top-loading iceboxes, rather than having to build one. I can't seem to find the right combination of Google search words.
We have a 2-burner pressurized alcohol, which I don't think was even lit by any of the previous owners. I've had experience with this creature from another boat, but my wife refuses to light it and I want to ditch it for next season with a single-burner Origo. That invites reconsidering everything, port and starboard.Doug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.sweetwatercruising.com
Refrigeration is a bugbear for me with my Mk I. A previous owner insulated the box with what I assume was spray foam (there's a circular hole cut through the wall in the battery compartment where some foam has extruded). There are 2 compressor plates and a 12/110 compressor right behind the port bulkhead. It will keep the compartment quite cool with the compressor only on a "1" setting. But the foam was a little dodgy in that the wall of the icebox bulged slightly. The boat also has a totally inadequate house battery bank, and that has to be amended. I generally run the compressor when I'm motoring, and then only in short bursts (30 minutes) per day to help keep the ice and freezer pack cold. (I've had the boat 3 and a half seasons now and I'm still trying to get my head around the charging and house usage issues. I have a small solar panel for trickle charging, and I keep resisting going to a large solar setup because i just don't like the idea of the clutter on the stern rail).
One of my problems with the system is that the icebox is just so bloody huge, which naturally creates cooling issues. Subdividing it makes sense, and I'd like to hear more about what people have done in this regard. I was on a Tartan 31 on the Hudson River in May and I swear the icebox was half the size of mine. I have been tempted to completely reconfigure the galley set-up. I would convert the present icebox area into dry storage with drawers, cut the alcohol stove down from 2 burner to 1 burner (we never use more than one burner) and then install a much smaller counter-loading icebox in the space freed up by the smaller stove. I don't know if anyone else has considered this, but I also haven't seriously investigated the space beneath the starboard galley counter. Plus the fuel tank is right on the other side of the bulkhead and that means I couldn't get the compressor unit as close as on the port side.
In my less lucid moments, I imagine removing the galley altogether from the port side and creating a quarter berth...Doug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.sweetwatercruising.com
I know the owners of this mag casually. They're good people. Real boaters, not publishing suits in New York who write about whatever the ad dept tells them to (e.g, new boats that cost more than my house). They sail a C&C 30 on Lake Superior.I find the magazine a fascinating window onto DIY enthusiasm, unencumbered by fact-checking. Many things are genuinely useful. Some things make you wonder what the hell people were thinking when they decided to add concrete ballast to the bilge or some such thing.
That said, the 27 article was seriously flawed by Ted Brewer's design comparison at the end, which was rendered gibberish by a confusion over which C&C 27 they were talking about. The drawing of course is the Mk 1 (which I own). The stats were from the mk III/IV. Plus those stats are a useless basis of comparison, since they don't really reflect the true hull dimensions of the III/IV. David W. knows I have a drawing derived from the original C&C design office plans comparing the two hulls. The waterline difference has been grossly exaggerated (blame the marketing dept way back when, I suspect). The two boats share exactly the same rudder post location, and the lwl as measured properly on the hull form is only 8 inches longer. The design dept dwg properly states the lwl as 21-8, not 22-11, as the brochures had it. To get that larger number, you have to include the skeg, which doesn't have a bearing on theoretical hull speed. (This was a cheat to make the boat sound potentially faster, which a lot of builders committed. Some included rudders in the dimension.) Anyway, my new year's resolution is to finally get a copy of this comparison drawing to Big George Cuthbertson, who I saw in November. When he gives it a thumbs up, I'll share it with the association.
happy new yearDoug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.sweetwatercruising.com
[Doug is the author, with past-C&C naval architect Steve Killing, of Yacht Design Explained, which will teach you a lot more than any other available book about yacht design, and that you'll really enjoy reading. - Admin]
Thanks. I'm just mildly paranoid about poking holes in the deck. The boat had a pretty thorough professional overhaul some years ago (before I owned her) that addressed core problems and moved all the stanchions to the toerail. When I had her surveyed in 06, the surveyor told me the deck was as dry as household drywall, and I sure want to keep it that way.
Any paticular style of hawse pipe?
thanksDoug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.sweetwatercruising.com
Searched the site for this, but couldn't find anything under "anchor locker." I have a Mk 1 and am determined to solve the vexatious problem of what to do with the chain and rode without a proper locker. I've thought of just punching a hawse hole pipe or whatever it's called through the deck into the forward locker. Solutions would be most welcome.