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Copasetic:
First of all, since you didn't have the ability to get yourself back to where you left off last year with respect to mast tuen, you kind of have to start over again. the first thing you must do is make certain that the mast head is in the middle of the boat (awthart ship- side to side) you can do that by using a 50' tape measure and with the main haylard hoist the end of the tape measure up to the top of the mast (I use a spare sail slide so that I know I'm measurig from the exact centre of the mast (the main haylad sheeve is not in the centre at the top) then measure to a known point (I use the deck imediately outboard of the chain plates at the toe rail) on each side. Adjust the upper (cap shrouds) so that the mast is centred, (the tension at this point is irelevant). Now you are set to tension the rig, by adjusting each side the same number of turns on the trunbuckles load up the uppers (if you are using a LOOSE gauge you want to get to around 30 - 32), next you can tension the lowers to pull the mast into column, the lowers will likely be a little looser than the uppers (LOOSE gauge around 25 - 2<img src="emoticons/icon_cool.gif">. Now your mast should be centred and have the proper amount of prebend (described above by JimW) now set your mast rake as per Jim'sdiscription, remember make sure the boat is level fore and aft, hint check the waterline and adjust stuff down below to get it level.
I don't use the baby stay, unless it's lumpy, and then we only hand tighten it. The baby stay on the Mark V is there to stop the mast from pumping and is not designed to be loaded up. If you tension the baby stay too much you will only create more trouble for yourself and end up with a leak at the deck where the chain plate is. If you look at how the baby stay chain plate is installed in the boat it is only supported by the bolts attaching it to the forward bulkhead, it's not intended to sustain a lot of load.
If you are racing the boat and don't have a back stay adjuster, get one, you are just not going to get the preformance of the the Mark V without being able to tension the backstay to minimumize forestay sag.
May sound like a long way of saying you need to retune the boat , but the Mark V is very sensitive to rig set up and once you get your boat tuned record the settings, mark stuff in the fall before you take it appart. One word of caution, when using LOOSE gauges there are 2 styles, for wire rigging, the standard gauge and the professional (the standard is what most people have, the professional is designed for one handed tuning and stays put on the wire while adjusting) the two gauges give different readings so what is 30 on one is not 30 on the other.
If your main is hanging up on the backstay while tacking try using a little more vang tension, you can also spray the leech of the sail with "sail kote"
Steve
Still Knot Working MkV #75
Mine, when I bother to put it on the boat, is just secured in the locker with a shock cord. The locker is not large enough of the tank to go anywhere, there is a recess in the bottom of the locker for the tank to sit in, and I think the main idea to keep the tank from moving around in the locker.
Glad to hear that you resolved your engine situation and look forward to see you out on the lake.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working MkV #75
Bill:
Glad to hear that there might be another Mark V in the area that want's to come out and race. I'm out of Etobicoke Yacht club and we have 4 Mk V's at our club and one next door at Mimico that race on a regular basis. It would be nice to get you out for some of the weekend fun. You might want to consider Port Credit's LORC Open we can usually get a good turnout for that one and then there is EYC Open in August.
If you are interested in details on sails give me a call and I'll fill you in, 905-856-8333 (daytime) 905-731-5825 (evenings)
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working, Mark V #75
I think you will find that, on the Mark V, the two out board fasteners for the stantion bases are tapped into the aluminum toe rail. The two inboard fasteners are thru bolted and have nuts on the under side.
You mentioned that you intend to repair the stantion bases. Are you aware that they are a plastic material, not much you can do to repair them, you should try contacting South Shore Marine to see if you can get replacements, you can find their contact info in the links section of this web site, suggest you call instead of emailing you might get a quicker response.
Hope this helps.
Steve
Still Knot Working 27 Mk V #75
Barry:
I usually carry about 16" of mast rake and I have a fair amount of pre-bend in the mast (about 4"), just about what is called for in the tuning guide on this web site.
Having said that, the boat will have a lot of weather helm, with this set up, if you don't have enough weight on the rail and that weight isn't well aft. The boat needs weight on the rail and you have to work to keep her as flat as possible. On my boat in any kind of breeze my main trimmer is the key person on the boat and I have to be in sync with her. The trimmer is watching the puffs and calling them out and my bow personae is calling the waves, we foot on each big wave and feather on each puff. The main trimmer is constantly working the traveler to keep the helm balanced. If you are the type of sailor who likes to "set it and forget it", it won't work with the set up I use. but if you learn to work the boat it will really pay off when it blows, we can sail higher and faster and it drives people crazy when we do it.
Hope this answers your questions.
Steve
Still Knot Working Mk V #75
Gary:
Based on your hull number #512, it sounds like you have a later model Mark V, probably built in the Bristol R.I. plant, so your set up may be a little different from mine hull #75, built in Niagara on the Lake, but it should be similar. The Mark V's were set up to use a single reef line for the clew (outboard end of the boom)of the main and a tack (inboard end) hook. On my boat there are 2 hooks at the tack, use the appropriate one (windward) side when you put in the reef. The reefing line should lead from the end of the boom (where it exits the boom) up through the clew reef cringle on the sail and then down fully around the boom and lead through an eye strap on the boom and tied off in a stopper knot against the eye strap. Now you are set up to put in a reef. To reef you lower the main until you can put the tack reef cringle over the appropriate tack reef hook and re tension the luff with the main halyard to achieve the appropriate luff tension. Next you take up the slack in the reefing line, which when properly attached becomes a reefing line as well as the outhaul (you may have to ease the mainsheet (and the vang) quite a bit, as you pull tension on the reefing line with the cabin top winch. We can put in a reef in about 30 seconds to no more than a minute (with practice) and the main looks flat and can be "boarded out" if we want and by adjusting the main halyard and or the reefing line we can put more draft into the sail or flatten it as required.
I hope this helps you and if you have any other questions please contact me. BTW whare do you sail out of?
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working MkV #75
Gary
I'm the owner of a Mark V #75, it is the boat featured in black Arts in the area dealing with window fixes. I strongly recommend that you NOT use screws to fix the window in place. The windows in the boat are designed to "float" in place, fixing them in place with screws will lead to cracks in the window or in the cabin top surrounding the windows. Imagine if you fixed the windshield of your car in place, it's designed to "float", as the car flexed as it goes down the road or as it expands or contracts in hot or cold something has to give, the same applies to your boat. The problem is that someone has used regular (marine or household) silicone to seal your windows, this stuff is terrible for this purpose. There is a specially formulated silicone type of adheasive, it's a two part product and is the only adheasive that will adhear to both the acrylic of the window and the fiberglass of the cabin top.
The only way to solve the problem is to remove the existing windows and carefully remove all traces of the silicone and clean both surfaces and then reinstall the windows.
you might consider contacting South Shore Yachts, you can get their contact info elsewhere in this web site, speak to Rob and get his suggestions, he may also be able to sell you the proper adheasive or puyt you intouch with a source.
Good luck, hope this is of some help.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working Mk V #75
Copasetic
The reefing system on the Mark V is designed so that the out board end will act as an outhaul as well as a downhaul to keep the sail as flat as possible. The Reefing line should lead from the exit at the aft end of the boom, up through the Leech Reef Point and back down to the boom, it is then lead through an eye strap on the side of the boom and tied with a tight bowline around the boom. The tighter you tie the bowline the closer you will be able to get the leech reef point to the boom when you put in the reef.
Steve
Still Knot Working MkV #75
Copasetic:
May seem like a silly question, but, have you put water in the fresh water tank? Have you tried the water pump in the head? Does it work? If so then you may have to take the gally pump apart and replace any dried out parts. The lack of use may have caused some of the innerds of the pump to dry out and crack. There is a service kit you can buy, available at most marine supply outlets, for the Whale Flipper pumps that were used in the boats.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working MkV #75
I'd agree with Dave on this one, my experience is that a heat gun even on low is too hot. I've use a hair dryer on many occasions to remove decals and vinyl names from signs and boats, they work well and you won't damage the surface or your fingers. Most solvents will work to remove any residual glue that is left behind after removing the decal. If you are really concerned about possibly damaging the surface I've use a product called "GOO GONE" it's available in Canada from Canadian Tire or similar stores, it's manufactured by a company called MAGIC AMERICA CORP of Cleveland Ohio, so it's likely available in the US as well.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working Mk V #75
Hi:
The reference in your survey to grounding, is most likely to the boat having been run aground at some point. As to the "high moisture" in the bulkhead port side, you don't say for sure but one could presume that it is the main bulkhead, that separates the head area from the main cabin. If this is the case, it is something that needs to be corrected immediately before any rot gets a chance to take hold. You would be well advised to get a competent marine repair facility to have a look at it and get an estimate to have it repaired professionally. I looked at a Mark V several years ago and that boat had some serious rot in the bottom of the main bulkhead. I found it would be an expensive proposition to have to replace the bulkhead. If you haven't yet purchased the boat or hopefully you made an offer subject to survey then you should adjust your offer price to compensate for the repairs.
You should also ask the surveyor for a full explanation of any questions you have about the survey, you paid him to do it, you have a right to fully understand what he has found.
My Mark V has upgraded self tailing winches on it, if you are upgrading you can go up to Harken 32's or Lewmar 30's, you will have to drill and fill the old mounting holes but that's a fairly simple process (look in the "Black Arts" section of this web site.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working Mk V #75
Dick:
Glad to be of help. Can't remember the exact arrangement at the top of the mast, it was stepped 2 weeks ago and I didn't really pay that much attention cause everything looked ok. but I recall that my boat had a similar problem, the previous owner made mention of it when I was buying the boat, and he had a link machined out of stainless steel to make up for the difference in length, you might consider doing the same as it could be less expensive than having a new head stay made. You might also consider putting a set of link plates at the bottom of the head stay where it attaches to the chainplate.
By the way where do you sail out of?
Steve Reid Still Knot Working Mk V #75
Dick:
Have you tried Rob at Southshore Yachts, see their link in Links and Contacts, I suggest calling them as opposed to email because my experiance is you'll get a quicker response.
Steve Still Knot Working Mk V #74
Jean:
There is only one sheave for each halyard, it's a small (approx. 3/4 - 1" dia.) nylon roller, it's purpose is to provide a low friction fairlead as the halyard runs down the inside of the mast. The halyard enters the mast (at the top) through an aluminum casting, the edges of that casting are smooth so that the line won't chafe, there is no provision for any rollers as the line enters the casting. If the nylon rollers are worn and need to be replaced you can order them through South Shore Yachts, the people there are very knowledgeable about all models of C&C's, it's well worth a call, you can find their phone # in the contacts section of the home page of this web site.
Steve
Still Knot Working MkV #75
Peg:
Out of Etobicoke Yacht Club in Toronto. If you are ever going to be in the Toronto area drop a line and if it's when the water is liquid, be happy to take you out for a sail.
Steve
Bob & Loupo:
The gudgeons are made of cast bronze, chrome plated, the pintals are made of stainless steel. The stainless being much harder, causes the bronze to wear. The wear is usually not circular, but oval (egg shape) and usually wears more on the top or bottom of the vertical hole in each gudgeon. On my boat there was a lot of annoying slop in the rudder, I like it tight. So I removed the gudgeons, marked what was top on each one, also removed the gudgeons from the rudder, again marked what was top and which one was the top one. Gave the whole shooting match to a machinist who set them up on a true table and checked the alignment. We were able to over boar the gudgeons just enough to make the holes true and circular. Then he machined new pins to the correct size for the gudgeons. In fact the new pins are matched one for the upper set of gudgeons and one for the lower, the pins also have a step in them. By that I mean that the diameter of the upper part of the pin is slightly larger than the bottom diameter. The boat has a much nicer feel to it now, especially in light air when the constant slopping of the rudder used to drive me crazy.
Steve "Still Knot Working" Mk V #75
Peg:
Where do you sail out of?
Am interested in getting in touch with as many Mark V owners as possible.
Steve "Still Knot Working" Mk V #75
Barry:
How's the weather in Saskatchewan? It's warm and I'm thinking sailing here in Ontario when I should be thinking skiing.
The serial no. thing is a bit confusing to say the least. To the best of my knowledge there were about 125 of the Mark V's built. Hull #1 was Cannery Row, she happens to be at our club and the hull numbers started over at #1 for the Mark V's.
That's certainly the case for the boats built at Niagera On The Lake, my boat serial no. is ZCC27075B585, it's hull number 75 built at Niagara on Feb. 5 1985, I have the origianl build file from C&C through South Shore Yachts.
Your boat was built at the Rhode Island plant CCY, the Y is Rhode Island, the 27575, could be 27 model 5 (Mark 5, hull #75 (Rhode Island) or it could be that the Rhode Island plant just continued to number all 27's regardless of model (Mark Version) and your was the 575th. hull they produced, but I think that is unlikely as I don't think there are that many 27's total and certainly not that many were produced at the R.I. plant. You might want to drop a line to Rob at South Shore Yachts (go to the links on the web site) he worked for C&C back in the day and probably knows more about the boats than anyone.
It's interesting that if your boat is #75 out of Rhode Island and mine is #75 out of Niagara we have more in common that we thought.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working, 27 Mk 5 #75
Barry:
Sorry for the oversight on the shoal draft version of the Mark V. I'll make the necessary changes to the proposed class rule changes to include both versions of the boat. I was not aware that any boats were built in 1987, but I will fix that also.
B.T.W. where do you sail out of?
Steve Reid
Barry:
There are several issues her. first off how much is too much weather helm? I have an 85 Mark V with a full keel. I have the boat set up with about 14" of mast rake, we normally carry a full main and #1 in 12 - 15 kts (true) of wind and then reef to keep the boat as flat as possible from there. The key word here is FLAT. The more a boat heels the more there is a tendancy to induce weather helm.
You have several things working against you. Shoal Draft, so you don't have the leverage to create righting moment and you have a loss of pointing ability. Roller Furling which probably means you don't have the ability to put enough tension on the Genoa Haylard to keep the draft of the sail far enough forward. A sail with the draft aft and at the top allows too much power (heeling moment) at the top of the sail. Have you tried moving the jib lead further aft to open up the top of the Genoa when you are in these conditions? If we don't have a full crew on the boat in these higher wind ranges we go to a smaller headsail, if we have full crew (5) everyone is on the rail hiking, if you don't keep the boat flat you will not be able to get it to point and you will just make leeway, there is that word again FLAT.
What is you genoa made out of and how old is it? If it's dacron and it's old 10+ years it's probably pretty baggy and that won't help you any at all.
The Mark V with full keel and fully crewed in 15 kts. is a deamon and will go to weather like it's been shot out of a gun, I know, we live for those days.
Steve
Still Knot working MkV #75
Have you tried contacting South Shore Yachts? I got in touch with them last fall and was able to get copies of the original drawings for the Mark V keel and from those was able to make templetes for fairing the keel. you'd be surprised at all the C&C stuff Rob has at South Shore, it's worth contacting him, 905-468-4340, I'd advise calling it takes them a while to respond to emails.
Steve
Still Knot Working MkV #75
Loupo:
You didn't mention that you were sailing with a furler. In that case you can almost automatically expect to get less pointing ability with the boat, you'll probably give up 5 degrees right off the bat, you loose out on luff length and can't get as low a clew as you can without the furler. Everything is a tradeoff, you can have the convenience of a furler or the performance without it. When I got my boat it had a furler on it, after sailing the boat once I sold the furler, made enough on that to but a head foil, and haven't loked back since.
Steve
Loupo
That's tough to say without seeing how the sails look, if it's an original dacron genoa it's 20+ years old and if it's seen a lot of use over that time it is probably pretty blown out. On my boat an 85 MkV with a two year old Doyle dacron square weave genoa in that kind of wind we are tacking through about 85 degrees. with my older (4 year old) Quantum pentax genoa we can manage about 90 degrees in the same conditions. There are a lot of other factos that come into play with that amount of wind though. Things like sea state for example. It could be 12 knots offshore where there is little wave build up, it could be some chop with white caps just forming or it could be 3 - 4 ft. waves. Each of these conditions will affect your ability to tack. We generally find that in that much wind with a slight chop that we have to oversteer a bit, say maybe 95 degrees initially and after 20 - 30 seconds start working up as the boat speed builds. The Mark V does have a good keel shape (we just spent last winter fairing ours) but once you get a flow over the foil is does start to give you lift.
Steve
Still Knot Working #75
If you'r buying there is none better than Peter McGuire 416-239-5782, he's fussy and knows his stuff. If you'r selling find someone else he's too picky.
I'm trying to get in touch with "Wreckless" a 27 Mk V out of Burlington. We raced against you at Youngstown Levels. We spoke, on the water, after racing on Sunday. It was great to see you out and we look forward to having a chance to avenge your victory at Levels. Are you planning on coming to our Open Regatta at Etobicike Yacht Club Aug. 26 -27? We'd love to see you there, it is usually a great Regatta, if you show up we will likely have 4 or 5 Mk V's plus we get a good turn out of older 27's. EYC provides an excellant Regatta venu with loads of free parking, docking for the weekend and an awsome party.
Hope you can make it, but if you can't please respond with some contact information so we can keep in touch.
Steve
Still Knot Working Mk V #75