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Hi:
Because the plastic coating on a lifeline might hide corrosion or damage that might weaken the lifeline, a number of years ago the ORC chamged to requiring uncoated lifelines for offshore racers.
See Reg 3.14.6.c http://offshore.ussailing.org/Assets/Offshore/SAS/2010+US+Cat+1+Mo.htm
Regards,
Tony Jeske
MkV #581
FLYING CIRCUS
San Diego
Hi Colin:
I added a Raymarine 1000 to my tiller steered MkV. It came with a plug and socket, so I didn't need one for that installation. I did add a second 12v socket next to the autopilot socket for miscellaneous stuff, anchor light, searchlight, etc.
I'm not a fan of cigarete lighter type sockets for marine use, but here's a marine version: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|1818199&id=1190214
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS
MkV #581
San Diego
Hi:
I agree with Steve Reid that the problem is most likely terminal corrosion at the mast/deck connector. You may find it helpful to look at Maine Sail's article on marine connections:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS MkV #581
San Diego
Hi Dan:
Yes, you should install an anti-siphon valve (vented loop) in the discharge line.
Here's Don Casey's article on head installation:
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/installing-head.asp
He recommends a vented loop.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS
Mk V #581
San Diego
Hi Alan:
It sure looks like a factory install to me.
Here's a photo: http://www.jibeho.org/110vpanel.htm
Regards,
Tony
Hi:
I have a few damaged indicator lamps on my MkV 110v electrical panel. I'm not sure how to remove them. I'd appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
Tony Jeske
Mk V #581
FLYING CIRCUS
San Diego
Hi Hunter:
Normally, an emergency tiller is only required if you have wheel steering. The steering cable could snap, or come off the quadrants, etc., in which case you'd be in big trouble without a backup emergency tiller.
Somewhere I have a copy of the ORC equipment regulations, but my "fail safe" filing system seems to have deserted me, so I'm doing this from memory only. On boats like ours, with a wooden tiller, the ORC regs MAY require the we have a non-breakable (metal) emergency tiller aboard. If so, a piece of 1/2" pipe with a couple of flanges welded on to fit onto the rudder would suffice. I'd say this is a very low priority item. Modern laminated wooden tillers are VERY unlikely to fail.
Regards,
Tony Jeske
MkV #581
FLYING CIRCUS
San Diego
Wow! Doesn't 18" mast rake give you tons of weather helm?
My MkV has 6" rake and I'm fighting rounding up in the gusts.
Regards,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS
Mk V #581
San Diego
Hi:
I'm happy to report that FLYING CIRCUS earned a first place finish the Silver Gate YC's Family Fleet 2011 season series.
I'm thrilled, there's zest in the old girl yet!
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS
Mk V #581
San Diego
Hi:
The interior of my Mk V is in pretty good shape, but it has a few chips and scatches in the sand colored interior gelcoat. I never have much luck trying to match a color. Does anyone know of a source for this gelcoat shade?
Regards,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS
Mk V #581
San Diego
Hi Ken:
I won't need a photo. Your description was enough to show me how it's done.
Thanks,
Tony
MkV #581
FLYING CIRCUS
San Diego
Hi Bill:
Consider adding a Nicro solar vent in the forepeak area. A 4" vent moves nearly twice the air a 3" does. Coupled with a passive exhaust vent at rear of the boat, this should provide a nice airflow. If you have 110v at hand, you may want to add a Goldenrod dehumififier.
Once I oiled my interior teak with a "natural" finish, a linseed oil and beeswax mix. What a mistake! That turned out to be mildew fertilizer! I had to wash all the interior teak with a bleach solution to clear that up.
If you coat the interior with teak oil, you'll find your teak getting darker and darker, usually not a good thing. If you use Wiemer's Lemon Oil, it won't darken your teak and it will prevent mildew. I suggest Wieman's because it contains NO silicon. If you use a lemon oil that contains silicon, you'll have big problems if you later try to varnish over the silicon.
Good Luck,
Tony
in low humidity San Diego
Hi:
I'm not a fan of the flipper pump on the galley sink on my MkV. I'd like to replace it with a foot pump, but fitting one looks tricky. Has anyone done this?
Regards,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS #581
San Diego
Hi Doug:
Intermittent problems, everyone's nightmare. It may be corroded or poor connections at your instrument panel, perhaps the starter button/key switch is shot. A quick way to find out is to go to your local auto parts store and get a remote starter switch ($10-$15). If, with the remote switch clipped to your starter, you consistently get the starter to operate, you've isolated the problem to the engine panel.
Good luck,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS
Mk V #581
San Diego
Hi Allan:
Sounds great! I'd love to see it. I'm not sure how you can post a picture, but maybe you can post a link?
Regards,
Tony
Hi:
The luff of my main feeds into the mast via a bolt rope. Dropping the main, especially if singlehanding, is a real kerfluffle. I'd like to add slugs, so when lowered, the luff stays attached to the mast. I race the boat. Will I be sorry that I gave up whatever small performance advantage the bolt rope has over slugs?
Sad to say, FLYING CIRCUS is not covering herself with glory on the race course as it is.
Regards,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS MkV #581
San Diego
Hi;
I've always been a fan of midship cleats, but the $84.99 cost of a C.S. Johnson folding cleat convinced me to look for an alternative.
For about $15, I made one. Here it is: http://www.jibeho.org/midship%20cleat.htm
Regards,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS
MkV #581
San Diego
Trying to post a photo:
http://s1094.photobucket.com/albums/i455/ajeske/
Tony
Hi Jamie:
The anchor light is all around (360 Deg) white. The steaming light is a white, forward only (135 Deg), not all around.
The four wires going to your mast are: ground, steaming light, anchor light and deck light. Buy or borrow a multimeter and use it to determine which wires are ground, steaming, etc.
Since you currently only have two wires in your mast, you can only wire one of the above. I suggest you wire up the steaming light. When motoring after dark, you are required to light it. It's switched off if your under sail, not motoring. When anchored, you need to show an all around white light. If your planning to anchor at night, you'll need to either run additional wires up the mast (and maybe add an anchor light to the masthead?) or buy a "portable" anchor light.
For the long term, you'll probably want to rewire your mast.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS
MkV #581
San Diego
Hi Dave:
My 1985 MkV has a 7/8" shaft, tapered, and I am using a 12 x 9 prop.
If you look in the "Black Arts" section of this site, you'll see that there are a few different diameter and pitch combinations in use on Mk V's. You might want to measure your shaft diameter before getting another prop, there are supposedly a few 1" shafts out there.
You may be able to find a good used prop on E-Bay.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS
Mk V #581
San Diego
Hi Jamie:
I'd be very careful about sanding. Remember the bulkheads are plywood with only a thin mahogany veneer. Agressive sanding and you're through the veneer.
Before you oil or varnish, I recommend you give the wood a good scrubbing, using a wood cleaner like Murphy's Oil Soap.
Furniture polish, used an all types of wood, is oil based, so using lemon oil furniture polish on your interior is perfectly O.K.
Oil will give you a satin finish which you'll need to renew every six months to a year, depending on your climate.
A marine varnish gives you a nice glossy finish, which should last many years.
Either finish is good, it's a matter of chosing the finish you prefer.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS
MkV #581
San Diego
Hi Brent:
I just bought the "Small boat" Harken traveler for my MkV. Somewhere in their website I found a load calculator that recommended "small boat" as the correct size for our boats. I didn't buy the windward sheeting version. I haven't installed it yet, so I can't comment on how it's working.
Good Luck,
Tony
Hi:
I'm about to install a Harken traveler on my MkV. Since the track is recessed into a slot on the bridge deck, I'm not sure if there's enough fore and aft clearance for the car.
Do I need to install tall track?
Anything else I should be aware of before I spend big bucks?
Regards,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS
Mk V #581
San Diego
Hi Brent:
So does my MkV. As you suspect, I think the water tank is part of the problem. Also my second battery is located in the cockpit locker, which I'm sure adds to my boat's list. One of these days I should empty the water tank and see if that helps.
Regards,
Tony Jeske
FLYING CIRCUS #581
San Diego
Hi Stephane:
Consider cleats on the shelf to keep the tank from moving about. Secondly, you have, or can construct a vertical support for the outboard (rear) side of the tank. Then two angle brackets, going across the top and down the inboard side of the tank, and fastened to the rear support and the base should keep everything in place.
Or, perhaps a pair of heavy duty hose clamp type of straps would do the job.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske