This Forum is supported by C&C 27 owners like you whose membership in the C&C 27 Association makes possible this Forum and the accompanying site. Thank you, members, for your continuing commitment.
You are not logged in.
Good morning Jeff,
The better sail, the number three, has been promised to a guy in Montréal. The older Jib is definitely too long in the luff for your boat and it wouldn't be worth spending any money trying to re-cut it .
Clare
I will give away a #3 sail (North Sails). It was replaced in my racing inventory by a newer sail. The sail is for a Mk 111 and has a #6 luff tape. Still sound ( no tears/repairs). It no longer has a good racing shape ---but is OK for cruising.
Also have an old working jib that someone might use. #6 luff tape.
For either or both of these, send me "bus fare" for the sails and they're yours.
Clare Jordan. Aragorn
Ingleside Ont.
bosco at bell dot net
A proposal to change from mast-down winter storage to mast-up storage at my Yacht Club has generated quite bit of discussion about rigging inspections and the life expectancy of the standing rigging of our aging boats.
Mast-down obviously allows for a more thorough look at the rig each Spring but barring any visible signs of fatigue/failure, is there a time when old just becomes too old??
Is there an economical way to check for impending failure ( x-ray?) of fittings/wire rather than replacing everything?
Clare Jordan Aragorn (Mk111 -34 years)
I have a used spinnaker for sale. North Sails tri-radial-----red, black and white.
Made for a Mk 111. Luff =36'4". G= 21'1". Has a few patches but is serviceable.
$600.
Clare Jordan. Aragorn. bosco at bell dot net
I have a used spinnaker for sale. North Sails tri-radial-----red, black and white.
Made for a Mk 111. Luff =36'4". G= 21'1". Has a few patches but is serviceable.
$600.
Clare Jordan. Aragorn. bosco at bell dot net
Hi PV.
Now that your shrouds have been tightened, the mast cannot be turned on the step. Your rigger will have to loosen the rig to turn the mast. Before you do that though, take a tape measure and check the horizontal distance from the inside of each upper shroud to the edge of the mast step plate. On my Mk 111 , I found that the plate was not centered between the upper chainplates/shrouds. (Assembled on a Monday??)
To be centered in the rig, my mast has to be almost touching the starboard side of the step. (I now have a "spacer" block for the port side to remind me each Spring.)
With the shrouds, for-stay and back-stay loosened, the mast should then be able to be pried/pushed into the right spot.
Clare Jordan. Aragorn
Mk 1. , Mk 11 , Mk 111 etc ??
Clare Jordan. Aragorn
Cream coloured Sunbrella Bimini and cover with forward-extending sun awning and side curtains. Made to fit around the single back-stay of our Mk 111. Attaches with two Quick-pull pins in about 10 minutes for cruising and comes off just as fast for racing. The zip-on battened awning lies forward over the boom to shade the full cockpit at anchor or dock..
Custom made by Kingston Awning and Canvas. For photo, see "Aragorn" in the photos of the 'Fleet'. Location; Stormont Yacht Club, Long Sault Ont. $ 700.
Need more info ?. bosco at bell dot net
Hi Steve, you don't say whether your boat is in or out of water. I assume it's out of the water because you say you can hear the bearing squealing. If the boat was in the water I doubt you would hear it.
The Cutlas Bearing is lubricated by the water which runs between the shaft and bearing itself---It is not intended to run dry. Dry friction would cause it to squeal.
Clare Jordan. Aragorn
All great points, guys !! Can I add one more ?
An inflatable should NEVER be worn UNDER a jacket/coat etc. Inflating the device inside a the confines of a tight garment can compress your chest cavity and prevent you from breathing !!! Not what you want in a dunking situation !!!
Clare Jordan Aragorn
I have read all of the good answers to the initial question but I HAVE to
add my own answer--- "about 1/8 inch or so, in calm water"
Clare Jordan. Aragorn
Happy New Year !!
Just to close this thread, I have found that "The Chandlery" in Ottawa will have new lifelines made up for me. The old fittings are not re-useable so I'll be paying for new ones, plus the cost of the wire @ $1.00 per foot and also the labour costs for the swaging of the fittings ($12.00 per fitting X four).
Total will be about $ 170.00.-- Not too bad for the peace of mind new lifelines will provide.
Clare Jordan Aragorn
Hi Alan,
Thank you for your suggestion however I contacted Plastico and they cannot do that sort of work. They can plastic coat small parts only. As some have suggested, the lines might be better off bare so I think I will strip off the plastic insulation and then consider using shroud covers if necessary , to prevent abrasion.
Clare Jordan
After 33 years of use, the lifelines on Aragorn ,although still intact ,are showing signs of wear and cracking on the (plastic?) covering. Does anyone out there have a source for re-covering lifelines?
Clare Jordan
Dave W.,
This sounds like it might be a very interesting/valuable addition to this site -- Black Arts???
Providing , of couse, that we don't infringe any copyright.
Clare Jordan
Aragorn
From a similar experience, I learned that shrinkage seems to occur mostly at the end of the dryer cyle when the material is finishing the full dryer cycle. I had better luck, monitoring the dryer carefully to avoid completely drying the material then stuffing the 'INNARDS' back into still-damp covers and letting them fully dry later.
This has come uo before --
See
Hey R.
This web-page has a link to another C and C site where you'll find an "Alladin's Cave" of info. Among that stuff is a copy of the original C &C 27 Mk 111 brochure giving the mast height above the water as 41 feet. I've never measured it but have always used this number for clearance under bridges and power lines--- There's a marina nearby which I can't get to with Aragorn --- the power line strung across the entrance there is too low .
Given that the "P" figure for the Mark 111 is 31 feet, if you measure from the gooseneck fitting ( "x" feet)to the mast step, you can easily figure the distance from the mast step down to the waterline .
41 - 31= 10 feet from the gooseneck to the waterline minus "x" = above water height of the hull . Add the draught of 4 ' 6" and you'll find you needed clearance ( except that the hatch cover is a little higher than the mast step and as Dave suggests , you'll need a bit of room under the cradle as well)
Clare Jordan Aragorn
Many thanks , Marcus for your excellent description of your adventure with trying epoxy over teak. Had you not warned me , my intended path would have followed yours pretty closely!!( with very likely the same results)
That's why this forum is so valuable--- Over the years, it must have saved hundreds of 27 owners countless hours, dollars and frustrations.
My teak got sanded this Spring (nothing more) and it is now slowly turning that silvery-grey colour and, you know, maybe I'll just learn to love it as it is!
Clare Jordan, Aragorn
The eternal dilemma. What to do with teak?? Oiling it looks OK for a few months then it darkens. Various finishes all seem to break down and need re-sanding and refinishing every year or so.
I am currectly using some West Epoxy (with a 207 (clear) hardener) for another project and wondered if anyone has tried coating their external teak with epoxy? If so; did it stick/last?
Rather than try and fail, I hope to learn from someone else's experience.
Clare Jordan Aragorn
Hi again bjarki,
As an afterthought--- Do you do much cruising?? A three-four year old Kevlar sail is pretty much "toast" and hasn't much value left in it but a three-four year old Dacron sail is still OK for cruising use. If you buy Dacron, you can use it 3 years for racing , replace it with another Dacron but keep the old one another 3 years for cruising thus saving wear on your racing sail.
I have also sold 3-4 year old Dacron sails which I took out of my racing inventory to folks who wanted something cheap for cruising.
If you're independently wealthy, by all means, go for new Kevlar or Mylar and change them every year !!!
Clare Jordan Aragorn
There's nothing wrong with a Dacron sail for racing except that Dacron is less "stable" than Kevlar or Mylar.--- ie when the wind inceases or decreases, the Dacron sail will change its shape which will require more adjustments/corrections to the sheet and halyard tensions to maintain the sail's shape than would a Kevlar or Mylar sail.
The Dacron sail will outlast the others being more amenable to have its shape adjusted as it ages.
Clare Jordan Aragorn
Hey Richard,
Although not in the GTA, John Clark of Kingston Sail Loft is the sailmaker of choice for me. I currently have all three of my headsails and the main made by KSL for my Mk 111. The main (new this Spring) was an exact copy of the one John made for me back in 2004 and I'm very happy with it. John is a former "Worlds" Shark champion and although his loft (along with his partner Andy Soper) is small, I've found them to be great for service and expertise. John is the only sailmaker that I am aware of who puts an "adjustable" luff rope in the mainsails he builds so as the sail ages, he can adjust this for you to help keep the draft in the right location.
Clare Jordan ARAGORN
Zep 505 ( as mentioned in an earlier Forum post )IS as good as a cleaner as anything I've ever tried for the hull and decks.
Clare Jordan Aragorn
Hey Richard,
When you've sailed as long as I have and reached my ripe old age, it is sometimes not easy to "get it up"; let alone practice !!!
Clare
Hey Richard,
Sounds like you pretty well know what to do already. Just need to practice it--- Suggestion ; take your crew out in 8 knots and do a dozen "bag-drops" with re-hoists and a dozen downwind gybes as a start -- It's just a matter of each crew member working in unison.
To anwer your points; 1.Yes , the tweakers are set up like diagram shows. The tweaker on the guy is always pulled down but the tweaker on the sheet must be free or it will distort the shape of the chute. During a gybe, of course, one must be tightened and the other let free as the boat rotates under the spinnaker.
2. We put the spinnaker bag inside the pulpit, just ahead of the forestay. Having the bag in the middle of the boat (rather than having it on the port side) better allows a hoist on EITHER tack. ( we sometimes have starboard roundings)
If you look again at the picture of Aragorn in the "Fleet" section , you can see the bag location and also pick out the tweaker acting on the guy.
Cheers, Clare