C&C 27 Association Forum

Some more details of what I'm trying to plan-out:

The boat is a 79 MkIII.

Just the main and genoa halyards currently lead aft to the original horn cleats with the original cabin-top winches. I have 2 Schaefer single turning blocks (that I'll replace). The 140 furling genoa is using snatch blocks on the toerail. Original non-self-tailing winches.

I'd like to add genoa tracks. Probably bite the bullet and do sliding cars rather than pin-stop. I've gotten some Garhauer blocks for my mainsheet, etc. and they seem great so I'd probably go with their set-up (let's hope the CAN $ picks up!).

My outhaul is currently a piece of line .... I haven't decided if I'm going to do an in-boom cascade, or just install sheaves in the end-boom and gooseneck castings and do a purchase between the gooseneck and the mast-step. I get the feeling things will get busy enough at the mast step that in-boom is the way to go. Mainsail is loose-footed.

My cunningham is my old boomvang with a cringle hook added. Like to replace the blocks and lead-aft.

The cunningham doubles for reefing the luff. Leech reefing lines terminate on the side of the boom. I may lead reefing lines aft (cunningham would already be there). My thoughts on this are that I don't really sail single or short-handed so I can put a crew member at the mast but I want them to have the minimum amount of work to do ... with main halyard and luff reef point controlled from the cockpit, the person at the mast has the tasks of: moving the hook up to the reefing cringle; ensuring the mainsail luff slides are not caught-up; pull the leech reef points down and secure the sail at the intermediate cringles. If I have the leech reefs lead aft that's one less thing for them to do.

The boom vang is a new Harken 4:1. I'd like to lead it aft. Future addition would be to add a boomkicker ... or perhaps a rigid vang (and be done with the annoying topping lift!).

I've got a Harken traveler to install. My mainsheet is a 4:1 Garhauer.

I have an  older spinnaker, but the boat's never been set-up to use it (i.e. no uphaul, downhaul ... even spinnaker pole). But I do have a spinnaker halyard, which I'd like to lead aft and I'd like to plan ahead for leading spinnaker controls aft too (I'm suspecting they will end up on the side of the coachroof).

Also have a gennaker (that I've never used).

Boat has wheel steering. Furler is a brand new Harken MkIV Unit 0.

One question I have is what's the best approach with regards to which lines to run on line clutches and which to run on cam cleats? Especially given that I have a dodger and things are going to get pretty busy under there!

North Saanich, B.C.

Yes and considering the YSB8 was only made in 1976/77 ... it very well could be as old as your A4? As well ... I'm sure 8hp would move the boat fine, but you won't have much reserve there. Even C&C, when they started offering diesel as an option, used the YSB12. Most diesel installations seem to be done with > 14hp.
North Saanich, B.C.

This is what the previous owner did on my MkIII. Honestly I haven't had much opportunity to use the setup yet.

<img src="http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d16/Van_Isle/Windlass_1_zps2d2d55d1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Windlass_1_zps2d2d55d1.jpg"/>

<img src="http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d16/Van_Isle/Windlass_2_zps72496f34.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Windlass_2_zps72496f34.jpg"/>
North Saanich, B.C.

High time I updated this thread!  I'll have to add some photos of the process, but this is what we ended up doing:

1. Stripped all anti-fouling off, down to bare fiberglass. We used multiple applications of Franmar Soy-strip followed by much scraping and then orbital palm sander to get the last of it off.
2. We discovered a total of 10 blisters. All repaired with West System.
3. Fixed the C&C smile with West System G-Flex.
4. Took the keel down to bare lead. Epoxy coated it.
5. All the recesses for the flush-mount through-hulls were filled with west system and new Groco mushroom-style thru-hulls installed with new Groco valves and tailpieces. Used 3/4-inch marine ply for backing plates, coated in West System epoxy. In the end I didn't use the Groco flange-adapters, in part being concerned that drilling the through-bolts would punch-out the filling we had accomplished for the new thru-hulls. The Grocos are combination thread and they seem to seat quite deeply into the new valves. If I had used fiberglass for the backing plates I could have utilized bronze studs and not thru-bolted. I agonized quite a bit over the options. In the end, due to lack of time to do hand-layup of my own backing plates and poor availability of local fiberglass sheet ... I went with the epoxy coated ply. Each backing plate is about 5-inches in diameter and shaped to fit the hull and planed-down to ensure that the minimum amount of thru-hull thread is exposed. All the thru-hulls and backing plates were bedded in Sikaflex 291.
6. Repaired the trailing edge tip of the rudder, which the PO had munched on something.
7. Pulled and re-bedded the depth and speed transducers. Installed a new paddlewheel in the speed transducer and made a new fairing block for the depth transducer out of epoxy.
8. Applied 5 coats of Interlux Interprotect 2000 barrier coat.
9. Pulled the shaft (THAT was fun!). Installed a new PSS dripless shaft seal, new cutlass bearing and new Moyer split engine coupling.
10. 2 coats of ablative anti-fouling(Petit)over one coat of hard anti-fouling as a signal coat.
11. Renamed the boat ... complete with appropriate re-naming ceremony.

... and spent about 3 days scrubbing the boatyard grime off the deck and out of the interior!

North Saanich, B.C.

You're probably correct. 

Just to clarify, the lid of the sealed propane locker doesn't need to be at the same level as the locker that contains it. The requirement reads "If a LPG locker is installed inside a boat locker, the LPG locker shall be located as high and as close to the boat locker’s opening as possible". Also the LPG locker has to have a dedicated vent (minimum 1/2-inch inside diameter at any point - which means > 1/2 inch hose), running from the bottom of the LPG locker and discharging at a point below the bottom of the locker and above the static waterline and not closer than 20-inches from any opening to the boat's interior.  Keeping in mind propane is heavier than air, escaping propane in the LPG locker (tank, regulator, etc.) should flow like water ... unless pushed by air currents. Assuming a discharge through the transom, with the 20-inch rule I'd argue that manual bilge pump outlets and wet exhaust outlets wouldn't be a concern. Both would have to have propane fumes driven upwards into the boat through the hoses. If I have a leak in the exhaust I have other things to worry about! But the bilge ventilation would be a concern ... yes the bilge blower is 'exhaust' but on the port side (in my case right under the tank) the cowl vent is an 'intake' ... although the vent faces forward it's still an intake. I'm thinking at least it might be worthwhile swapping those around! Assuming I move the blower too over to the port side then that also puts the blower hose on the carb side of the engine (Atomic 4). I have more concern with leaks from carb / fuel pump / secondary fuel filter than I do from my brand new fuel tank on the starboard side (mind you the space is small enough it probably doesn't matter that much!).

For those of us with Mark III's or IV's with anchor lockers (mine is a Mk III), I don't think you'd be able to use any part of the anchor locker for propane storage ... or else you'd have to dedicate the entire locker to propane storage. Again from ABYC, "LPG lockers shall not be used for storage of any equipment other than LPG cylinders, cylinder valves, regulating equipment, and LPG safety devices". The lid would have to be retrofitted with a sealing gasket and the chain entry sealed off and I'm pretty sure the drain from the locker doesn't meet the 1/2-inch minimum inside diameter requirement. My boat also happens to have a windlass mounted in the lid of the chain locker.

In my case the tank hangs out over the transom ... so I don't have the 'mechanical' protection. It would be pretty intrusive mounted inboard of the railing, but perhaps I'll have to look at that.

North Saanich, B.C.

By the way .... hows the water pump?
North Saanich, B.C.

Thanks for the offer. I was noticing a couple of the plastic 'cups' behind the flush mount heads are deteriorated and brittle (I'm assuming these were placed during hull layup to provide the recess for the through hulls). I'll have to dig those out so I'm thinking of just filling the recesses and mounting mushroom head through hulls. Looks like the PO did that for the head discharge. So I'm looking at filling either way. I may also be able to re-use a couple of the original through hulls. One has damaged threads but others look good. I'd only re-use through hulls with a Groco flange adapter for thread match-up and protection. I'd have to use fiberglass backing plates with studs ... not through bolts ... since the through hull flanges are so large, and any through bolt would be in or near the filled area which I imagine would not be the best thing.
North Saanich, B.C.

Well I got a couple of the valves off and through hulls taken out. A Groco step wrench and bit of heat with a heat gun worked well.

Seems that, with the exception of one Forespar Marelon valve on the head intake, all the valves on board are brass. The engine intake and both sink drains are Toto Red and White ball valves and as I mentioned before the two cockpit drains are BII 'Forged Brass' ball valves. Pink is a bad color ... right?
North Saanich, B.C.

Email sent
North Saanich, B.C.