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If the impellor is chewed up, then the cam or the cam screw may be doing the chewing. You can get a new and larger cam from Moyer that may help with extra cooling as well.
I have some softness near the aft stanchon of the bow pulpit. From underneath I will cut a 4-6" hole around the aft bolt pattern, then clean out the core around the hole, and open up an internal passage going to the the forward 4 bolt holes if possible.
Refiberglass the bottom of the 4-6" hole, so when I pour in an epoxy resin and filler mix, it will be from the eight holes in the deck.
Rejean, check the year of manufacture of the engine. That should tell you if it was installed during the manufacture in 1985, or later.
I don't think there is an adjustment to handicaps for weight changes, like for folding propellors.
For racing, you would be able to strip the boat of weight to arrive at the minimum weight allowed, to compensate for the extra cylinder.
The first owner probably ordered the boat with a 2GM.
[Réjean, vérifier l'année de fabrication du moteur. Cela devrait vous dire s'il a été installé lors de la fabrication en 1985, ou plus tard. Je ne pense pas qu'il y est un ajustement aux handicaps pour les changements de poids, comme pour les hélices. Pour les courses, vous pourriez vider le bateau pour arriver àu poids minimum autorisé, pour compenser le cylindre deuxieme. Le premier propriétaire a probablement commandé le bateau avec le 2GM.]
That is not blue. I'm in Montreal.
Bump!
Yes 10hp is enough. Electric start, and long shafts, are a luxury.
My shipwright is ordering a 3 1/2" by 1 3/8" cutlas bearing, along with his order. I'll be the last to launch. My engine can't be installed until the back hoe can pull up along side me in the parking lot. In the meantime I'm sharpening the leading edges if the propeller, to cut weeds this summer.
Presently I'm removing one without set screws from a 1972 C&C. Its out 1" now with a homemade puller. Another 1" tomorrow. I heard yesterday of a way to hold a cutless bearing in place without set screws. If it slides in easily, use epoxy resin to hold it in place, and remove it with a torch.
Rick did you find the set screws?
A custom press tool, with the shaft still in place, is rare. I had not noticed mine, on a 7/8" shaft when, I spoke to the shipwright. You can get more experienced answers from the forum at Moyer Marine dot com., the Atomic 4 experts.
My shipwright told me a few weeks ago there are two on the side of the housing that hold the brass housing inside, in place.
Mike, I suggest changing the impeller on land or in the water this Spring. Then check that it works. Since you are new to the C&C, change the ignition after you have had sometime running the engine on the water. If it doesn't start afterwards, you will know the one and only cause!
What is the length of the luff and foot on your racing genny?
The sail manufacturing site has mislead me on the I an J lengths. From another source of boat specifications, I should use an I of 37.25 ft. and a J of 11.63 ft.
Therefore the 27 Assoc. chart would match me to a Mark 111 and a Mark 1V, but not a Mark V.
Barry, My I is 35.3 ft. from the chart. Having checked the rig dimensions for the two that I mentioned, they both are listed with an I = 35.5 ft. The Mark V is not listed.
From the Association site I best match the Mark 11.
...Scott
My project C&C needs a MAINSAIL that is either in Kevlar or Mylar and in good condition. Please let me know what you have.
Mine came today as well. All four windows are OK except one drips from the top seal right onto the cushion. But never when I'm there nor when hosed to death. So from my comfortable cushion I leaned back and caulked the inside space with, you will never guess, 'Seal and Peel'. Who cares! It may work.
Gentlemen, I have a C&C designed project boat (Paceship 29). Looking at the vacant Atomic 4 engine room on a rainy day, I thought I would try to make some order in the dangling wiring. If I can hook up the battery, and have some juice going to the fuse bar, some life might come back to the old girl.
From the battery selector two big black wires are close to the battery shelf, and a third big black one goes to where the alternator should end up. I recall a small wire coming from the inside of the battery selector.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Having started airplanes by hand, you can make a crank easily. With a 1/2 drive ratchet that is long enough for the area you are working in and socket that fits the crankshaft (if it fits), you have a good chance. Weld a 6 inch handle on the end. If it starts, the ratchet should prevent you from smashing your hand against something.
Turn the engine slowly twice stopping when the piston is rising. From here speed is needed until past top dead center. Throttle set higher than idle.
Clearsailing, can you email me. ...Scott
Looking to buy a cradle for a C&C 26 or 27. Willing to travel 150 miles or 250 kilometers from Montreal Quebec.
Bob, it sounds good, and there are some good truckers in that area.
Your definitely on my short list.
Trying to keep my needs to a minimum, they are: pedestal, inboard, furler, and a reasonable trucking distance from the St. Lawrence River.
Other less important desires are shoal keel, diesel and decent instruments. If your boat is expensive, then my J22 has to be sold first. Thanks guys.