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There is no reefing system on this C&C 27 Mark II, so I can do anything. Can I get away with a simple single-line system on this boat like the one Harken sells, or is a two-line system preferred? I want to bring the lines back to the cockpit on rope clutches.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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I went with Harken turning blocks on the boom for the leech reefing line then from the mast brought back to the cockpit along the deck, and I may use hooks at the gooseneck for the luff reef cringle, but for now I'll rig a second line that ties off at the mast until the crew and I decide which method we like best. Once we get the first reef point figured out, I'll rig the second one.
Although there are lots of options, the favoured seems to be not the one-line but a two-line, or leech line + gooseneck hook. Also seems favoured not to bother trying to bring all those lines back to the cockpit, since crew usually has to go forward anyway to tuck the sail and tie the nettles.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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I have a Mk 1 (#93, 1971) that I reef a fair bit. It didn't have any reefing (except for the roller boom that lacked the handle) when I bought her a couple seasons ago. I have a single line system leading back to a rope clutch. It works absolutely fine. The enemy of the single line system is friction, which can cause the tack reef to be pulled down to the boom before the clew reef has been snugged up. But I don't see any reason to complicate life with a two-line system on a boat of this size.Doug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.sweetwatercruising.com
Doug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.douglashunter.ca
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Some additional comments on a single-line system, as I'm not sure why a whole kit from Harken is required.
My line is dead-ended at the end of the boom at some convenient spot. Don't overdo the line diameter, as that's an invitation to the friction problems I mentioned. The reef line passes up through the clew reef cringle. then down to a cheek block on the side of the boom. Make sure the dead-end point and the cheek block are positioned sufficiently aft that they're exerting a pull that is back as well as down, to get decent foot tension. Then the line runs all way forward (mine passes inside the lazyjacks to avoid drooping) to a ball-bearing block hanging on a eyestrap on the mast at boom level. Line goes up from the block, through the tack reef cringle, then all the way down to the foot of the mast, through another block hung on the bail at the aft end of the mast step. From there, it's through a deck organizer to a rope clutch.
If you minimize friction and keep the line diameter smallish (3/8 should be loads), reefing is very simple matter of easing the halyard (and don't forget to release the vang), pulling on the single line, making sure both reef points are pulled down to the boom, then reapplying halyard tension. The whole job takes a minute or less and can be done without leaving the cockpit.Doug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.sweetwatercruising.com
Doug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.douglashunter.ca
Offline
Thanks for your testimonial, Doug. We have been experimenting with two lines, but I think I'll set up a one-line system by adding the forward block as you describe and give it a try. We can always go back. I like the simpicity, and I wondered if one line would work better on a smaller boat with shorter runs to reduce friction issues. It's been a very windy September out here -- lots of opportunity to try out reefs!
I agree the whole Harken kit seems like overkill. I just bought individual parts, and I also skipped the track concept.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Last edited by (2009-09-27 09:22:28)
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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Glad to be of help, and as you say, you can always switch back. I confess as well that I did an end run around Harken's lazyjack "kit" (more than $200) by just downloading their installation pdf to get basic placement dimensions for my mainsail. I bought a package of coated clothesline wire instead of white coated aircraft grade wire (about 1/8 the cost), a couple Harken bullet blocks, and with some spare line, a swager and a minor assortment of fittings (some of which were in hand) did the whole job comfortably within 2 figures. I gambled on the clothesline wire because if I messed up it would be cheap to replace. The system works perfectly.
Doug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.sweetwatercruising.com
[While it's true that some people are so insanely busy that kits for this and that make sense, it's always struck me that reliance on labour-saving shortcuts is selling the sailing/boat-owning experience short. One of the pleasures of owning a boat is really delving into it, understanding it and making it your own by doing things in ways that you've thought through and then done as you feel they ought to be done. You only have to learn to splice or swage once, for instance, but thereafter all your eyes are perfectly sized, instead of pre-spliced compromises. - Admin]
Last edited by (2009-09-28 04:53:49)
Doug Hunter
Diva
C&C 27 Mk1
Midland Bay Sailing Club
www.douglashunter.ca
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