C&C 27 Association Forum

This Forum is supported by C&C 27 owners like you whose membership in the C&C 27 Association makes possible this Forum and the accompanying site. Thank you, members, for your continuing commitment.

You are not logged in.

Announcement

if you need to reset your password, you will have to confirm the request clicking the URL in the email that you will receive (Just in case check the spam folder)
If you have any problem, please do not hesitate to contact me

#1 2004-08-03 00:07:59

Aragorn
Member

'Play' in tiller/rudder connection

My 1978 Mark 111 has some play in the steering . Over the years I suppose the hole through the rudder-post has become oval. I've overcome the problem by tightening the bolt which passes through the tiller to the point where the metal "tangs" on the sides of the tiller fitting bear up against the sides of the rudder post and thus remove the 'slack'.  This is obviously not the proper answer to the problem. Has anyone had ( and solved ) this problem short of dropping the rudder out and re-drilling everything to a larger bolt size??
  Clare Jordan- Aragorn


<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
;
;

Offline

#2 2004-08-05 23:40:08

Guest

Re: 'Play' in tiller/rudder connection

I know this is not the answer you-re looking for, but... we corrected the same problem on our mark III by dropping the rudder in the fall, 'braising' the rudder post holes and redrilling then replacing the worn bolt (same size so you dont need to redrill the tang.).  It also helped dry the rudder over the winter and is not a big job when the boat is on the hard.  Just make sure that the old hole is not flared outside the post or you will gouge the shaft sleeve when removing the rudder. This is not a big deal, but just the same...   If it is flared from the wear, just file it smooth.  Regrease post before reinstalling.
Result:  very little play and a much better feel.  Cost:  around $50 at any competent machine shop and a little time for removal/install.

#3 2004-10-28 07:57:18

Aragorn
Member

Re: 'Play' in tiller/rudder connection

Since haul-out I've removed the tiller from Aragorn and had a better look. Now I need to compare what I see to someone else's experience. What I found was a hole through the S.S. rudder post which appears to be ~3/8 inch diam. with a thin-walled S.S. tube inside it, brazed or silver soldered to the rudder post at each of its ends. The inner diam. of this tube is 5/16 inch (as is the bolt that goes through the metal casting that accepts the tiller. The casting has a hole through it of ~ 1/2 inch and has brass bushings in, it drilled out to 5/16 inch ( same as the bolt). One end of the S.S. tube has broken away from the rudder post: as a result the tube must have  moved, elongated the hole and caused the 'play I've been experiencing in the steering.
     Does anyone know if this was the 1978 design or was this the prior owner's attempt at a repair??  Also, any ideas to fix this in addition to the previous suggestion??
      Clare Jordan  Aragorn


<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
;
;

Offline

#4 2005-03-24 04:08:47

Aragorn
Member

Re: 'Play' in tiller/rudder connection

Just an update to my prior posts about play in the rudder/tiller connection. Over the winter I replaced the tube which passes through the top of the rudder post thinking that it had worn but I found that renewing the tube gave little improvement. What I DID discover was that the equivalent bolt to the original 5/16" but in metric size is a few thou. larger than 5/16". I put in one of these metric bolts and now everthing fits nicely again.-- might work for others with the same problem.
  Clare Jordan


<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
;
;

Offline

#5 2005-03-29 21:08:40

Guest

Re: 'Play' in tiller/rudder connection

Clare, could you tell me what size metric bolt you did end up using? I've got the same problem and was going to try a plastic shim and this could save me some grief.. Thanks..

#6 2005-04-08 13:33:22

Guest

Re: 'Play' in tiller/rudder connection

Hi Clare
My tiller also had a lot of play. The bulk of it came from play in the jaws of the tiller with some from the shft hole.I had a machine shop bore out the holes and insert some sleeves. They then bored the holes in the sleeve slightly over size and machine a bolt to fit. I then drilled out the rudder shaft by hand. This has reduced the play significantly.
Hope this helps.
Carl Armstrong

Board footer

Powered by FluxBB