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For a Mk III - one of the two bolts that holds the aluminum casting (the one that prevents the rudder from swiveling 360 degrees) onto the rudder post is stripped. I have an idea on how I could deal with this and would like some opinions:
I though the easiest fix would be to drill the top bolt hole through the stainless steel rudder tube and use a long bolt to hold the casting securely to the post. The lower bolt is the stripped one, and I thought I could fashion a stainless steel strap to hold it in place with the top bolt.
Any thoughts on this approach??
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Hi JoeC.,
How about removing the 'casting' from the rudder post, (Use the tiller attachment to hold up the rudder) then drilling out the one hole in the casting larger to accept the next larger size bolt , then drilling out and tapping the old hole in the rudder post for the new bolt. Would that be be an easier option??
Clare Jordan- Aragorn
<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
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I thought about that - the problem is that the fit is very tight and a larger bolt head will preclude tightening with a box wrench.
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Joe, You may want to try tapping to the next larger size and using a socket head cap screw instead of Hex head. The diameter of the head is smaller and if you are confined in space an Allen key may work better instead of a wrench.
Regards
Ralph Ainslie
"Hyperion"
After trying the tapping solution and having it strip again we dealt with the same problem by using a simple nut and bolt arrangement. This required pulling out the somewhat deteriorated wooden shaft plug which we replaced with a more servicable plastic plug to stop water from getting into the rudder. The inside curve on the shaft keeps the nut inside from turning if you take care to line the flat edges up with the vertical of the shaft. This is pretty nuch they way it want's to go so there is no problem here, really. The only issue was the closeness of the inside nut to the through bolt for the tiller. You may have to play with various nut thicknesses to find one that works for you. We used a nylock nut (or aircraft nut, or whatever you like to call them) and it just fit.
So far (1 season since modifying) there have been no problems.
Gord>
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Nice solution! I plan to pull the rudder for another repair, so I'll give it a go. Thanks!
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