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I had some recoring done on the cabin top a couple of years ago and since the handrails had to be removed I took the opportunity to sand them down, fill and repair a few cracks and finish them. Unfortunately, I assumed they'd been properly bedded et al when they were reinstalled, and now I have leakage, plus the forward screws have pulled out on the starboard rail and the port rail has a big crack in it. First thought was to repair them, but then I sobered up. I've searched the forums for handrail info, and have asked for a quote from Noah's for teak. Several of our CC27 owners at the club said if they had the chance to do it again, they'd go stainless. Does anyone have stainless rails, or know where I can get them made?
Gord
Aurora 1975 MKIII
Do you plan on replacing the interior hand rails with stainless too?...MURR
Hi Gord,
I know of one outfit that served me well a couple of times when I was looking for stainless parts/pieces and that is at <A href="http://www.stainlessoutfitters.com/">http://www.stainlessoutfitters.com/</A> in Barrie Ontario. The owner is John, an obliging guy. I would guess though, that you're looking at an expensive proposition if you want stainless made up to match the existing mounting locations on the cabin-top (tricky job).
Clare Jordan Aragorn
<U>SAIL FOR SALE </U>_
#2 Genoa for 27' Mk.111 by North Sails . Tri-radial cut, Norlam fabric, built 1998-- good shape . Window, tell-tales and draught stripe. Stitching etc. checked ;2001/2002 . #6 Luff tape .
Replacement Genoa is on order for 2004 racing season but there's some cruising years left in this one -$ 550 asking price. phone 613 498-2029 or e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">Brockville)
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Two good questions, guys..
Since I have to fill-drill-fill anyway, I was thinking of replacing the screws with bolts to start with. I think trying to match the existing holes in the teak rail on the stainless rail would be misery. I was thinking if I went stainless I would bolt the interior rails with the head flush on the exterior. Hopefully with the same centres the exterior rail mounting points could cover the bolts, but how to fasten the rail (I thought that most stantion bases are multi-screwed.. Really don't know at this point..)
Noah's are quoting about $32 a linear foot for the teak.
I already asked for a ballpark on the stainless from those guys, Clare and they haven't gotten back to me. I spotted a stainless rail that they'd made for a Matilda and the guy had their link in his site..
Gord - Aurora
South Port Sailing Club
St Clair Beach
Contact this guy <A href="http://www.klackospars.com/">http://www.klackospars.com/</A>
Danny Klacko at Klacko Spars is easily capable of doing these up well. However, there is also another excellent stainless fabricator with the Klacko name, in Grimsby. Check out www.klackomarine.ca
Gord:
Check out www.teakflex.com
They make an adjustable teak handrail system that is reasonably priced and easily installed.
Bob Honsberger
Former owner of "Budge"
Mk.2
I replaced the handrails on Rahpsody my Mk3 last winter. The old ones were very thin and cracked/broken as well as leaking.
I made them from a single teak board about 11 ft long, 5-1/2 inch wide and 1 inch thick. I cutout ovals from the middle, then split the board into two and routered the edges smooth. I used the old rails for paterns as to the size etc, trying to ensure that the inside rails matched up. I did the fill/drill/fill/drill thing to ensure no water migration to the core and through bolted the rails with carriage bolts (heads on top, nyloc nuts bottom and butyl tape unter the rails. They easily bent to follow the curved cabin top. This leaves an almost flush bolthead showing, but it looks very nautical and is very solid.
I got the teak from a specialty hardwood place localy, I think it was about $160 US. The end result is great, no leaks, and very solid rails. Making the rails is pretty easy if you are a little bit handy with woodworking tools; installing is the same with all of them. I thought about stainless, but was scared of the curved cabin top.
Good luck!
Bob Wooden - Rhapsody C&C 27 Mk III on the hard in Wisconsin
[The Admin got transferred from Gr 9 shop to typing class to reduce the danger to others, yet managed to make a set of handrails for his previous boat that were generally admired. All you need is (ideally) a table saw, a jigsaw and a router. Most clubs have a table saw and you can rent a jig saw and a router without too much trouble. The Admin concurs with Mr. Wooden - if the Admin can, you can, and it would be a satisfying winter project. - Admin]
Last edited by (2006-11-04 03:41:22)
Thanks to all of you for your help and suggestions. I've just removed the old rails today and am still po'd at the guys that slapped them back on after I had work done 5 years ago. I think they found the screws in someone's old coffee can(totally mixed - robertson, phillips, brass and ss). Two of the old brass screws had corroded badly (one broke off in the middle), and they'd just filled the screwholes with some kind of bedding compound but not bedded the rails. I'm still toying with the stainless idea (I'll assemble them myself using the standard fittings and tubing if I do, but the teak does sound appealing and if I do go ahead and install teak and holly veneer flooring -that other thread got me going, slippery as it may be, David - making the rails would be a great retraining project.) I was kicked out of g9 shop for overtorquing and shearing off one of the head bolts on one of those engine thingies but made a nice magazine rack when they let me back in. I've got experience.
Bob, just a clarification.
Did you bolt one bolt per each of the six exterior rail supports, and replace the 4 interior screws with these same bolts? Thanks in advance..
Gord the carpenter
Aurora, MKIII SPSC
Last edited by (2006-11-06 08:44:36)
I used one bolt per "leg"... So there were 4 bolts that passed through the exterior handrails and the interior handrails as I recall (I am away from the boat right now) and 2 more in the head. Anyway, with 1/4 inch carriage bolts they are pretty solid (far more solid than with the wood screws holding it together).
Did that answer the question?
Bob Wooden
Perfectly, Bob. I was hoping you'd say that. That's 12 holes in my cabin top instead of the 32 that I've got right now...
Gord
Aurora MkIII, SPSC
I found this website where a guy had installed stainless steel handrails on a Landfall 38. He had them custom fabricated. I like the look of teak, but these look pretty nice.
<A href="http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/deck/index.htm">http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/deck/index.htm</A>
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. I ended up repairing the original teak handrails, stripped them down, drilled bolt holes to match the interior rails varnished them and finally got them installed yesterday. (Other than the problems of trying to centre the holes (32 years of sanding makes them a lot thinner) finding 5" stainless flathead bolts, securing the nuts inside the lower handrails and finding out that the port side cabin top is thicker than the starboard side, it went quite smoothly.)
[em]Gord Richardson</SPAN>
Aurora - C&C 27 MK III</SPAN>
Windsor, Ontario</SPAN>[/em]
Gord Richardson
Aurora - C&C 27 1975 MK III
Windsor, Ontario
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