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Hello,
I have a 1985 C & C 27 MarkV built in Rhode Island. After taking all the tape off of the rigging, I discovered that one of the spreader tips was missing and all " McGivered" with wire to hold the Upper and Upper intermediate in place. I am having a tuff time finding out where to get a spreader tip without knowing the Manufacturer of the mast. The mast is a deck-stepped masthead rig 35'tall, single spreader with an intermediate upper shroud. Does anyone know the manufacturer of this mast or where I can get a spreader tip for it??
Thank you,
Joe
WILD IRISH
Hull#531
MKE. WI.
I have a Dacron Mainsail with slides (29'luff-10'8"foot)it is in very good condition, no battens though. $200/you pay shipping
I also have a Dacron Jib with hanks (31'luff-11'foot) also in very good condition. $150/you pay shipping.
Now, I have a Kevlar main that has seen it's time and a 150% genoa which also is starting to fall apart on me. Looking for used Mylar/Kevlar main and genoa to replace what I have. Any suggestions?
contact kiehmo@sbcglobal.net
Joe Kiehm
Wild Irish
Mark V hull 531
Milwaukee, WI 53217
I may have an older 150% genoa with hanks for my Mark V. I believe the luff is about 36' If you are interested I will look it over and measure the luff and it's condition. I've never taken it out of the bag bec. it had roller furling when I bought the boat. I believe it's in better condition than the sail I have now, but I can't use the hanks. I thought about taking the hanks off, but the bolt rope is too thick to go up the foil. Let me know.
Joe
WILD IRISH
1985 Mark V hull #531
Milwaukee, WI.
Sounds like a good idea. Also, I've heard that if you have 1 (one) battery that's not keeping a charge, when you run in and out to the race course, the batteries try to even themselves out. Meaning, the battery that is low will draw from the battery that has a full charge when you run them on both. I would only run them on both if you were motoring more than 10mi. otherwise, the weak battery is always gonna draw from the strong battery on "both battery" switch.
Well, I am ignorant about the functions of a multimeter. All I usually use it for is continuity. You need a battery charger that has these two options. I got a compact one at Batteries Plus..........Priceless. It has helped me so much. They automaticly turn off when fully charged and eliminate haulin them damn things out to take them to where I bought them only to ask, "what's wrong with my battery?" THAT'S where I learned about the voltage VS. percent charged. Before you go out to purchase something, call someone who's business it is to know these things. I'm just a a "Joe Blow" weekend warrior fix it guy.
Sincerely,
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S.
1985 C & C MarkV
I have the same engine with the same bunch of knobs and toggles. None of them do anything. The only thing that works on the panel is the fuel, rpm, start and stop. If you find out what the rest of that stuff is, please let me know.
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S. (keep is simple stupid)
1985 Mark V Hull #531
Milwaukee, WI.
All VERY GOOD STUFF!! But remember, always make sure to top-off your diesel tank after your fuel gauge pulls away from full. We don't want condensation to be another factor in this problem.
It may be very simple. I have the Yanmar 1GM10 motor with key and push button start in my boat as well. I also have a battery charger that not only indicates voltage, but % charged as well. Therefore, for example, it may show 12-13v on your meter but it may only be 35% charged(which may not be enough to turn it over on the first crank.) Check your water level and try to find out what percent your battery is holding at that moment. I've had the same things that you described and my battery will start even without the alarm. That's when I know to run it on that battery for a while. I know this, or maybe ALL of this, may sound a bit condecending, but make sure you use pure distilled water to top off batteries. Well, that's all I got, and that's the remedy that cured my battery problems. I hope it's as easy for you.
Sincerley,
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S.(keep it simple, stupid)
C & C 27' MarkV
Hull #531
Milwaukee,WI.
No, what happened was when they installed the vent tube for the tank, they mounted it right on the edge of the tank and it was actually a screw so close to the edge that started the crack. I don't know why they insisted on mounting it so close to the edge when they've got the whole rest of the top surface to do it? Well, needless to say, we'll see if my repair holds up to a pump out. The blue water was the waste treatment chemical. So, not only was water draining into the bildge from that, but also from the comode itself on Port tack because the backflow preventer failed. I now have a dry bilge. YEA!!!!
My issue turned out to be two things. One was the toilet itself needed an overhaul because the backflow unit was failing. And Second, after I bought a new toilet and started to replace all the hoses, I got to the holding tank and noticed a huge crack in it. As I was working on getting the hoses off, I was wondering why it was moving and swaying.......well, it was sitting in 4 inches of blue water. So, I repaired the crack with 3M5200 sealant/adhesive. I just hope it holds during the pump out. We'll find out.
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S.
C & C 27 Mark V
Glendale, WI
Well, I've taken all of your suggestions and I've got a new toilet and replacing all the hoses. That aughta take care of it, hey?
Joe Kiehm
the one that started this thread.
THANKS EVERYONE!!!!!
I have removed my Headmate toilet from my C & C 27 Mark V and purchased a new one. The problem with it seemed to be with backflow. So, If anyone is interested in getting the part and fixing it, I'm letting it go for $20 plus shipping which would be around $30 for it's size and weight. Anyone interested can contact me at kiehmo@sbcglobal.net and we can go from there.
Thanks
Joe Kiehm
C & C 24 Mark V
K.I.S.S.
Hull 531
What do you have left in your "for sale" inventory?
Thanks,
Joe
K.I.S.S.
Mark V Hull#531
Glendale, WI
Yea I was suspect about that as well but I won't know until I pull the boat for the season. I'm thinking it's either growth or maybe a broken paddle/s. It could be that simple. I returned the TACKTICK wireless-solar powered unit. Never buy from a distributer. They'll tell you anything you want to hear. I went to TACKTICK and got the whole scoop. $535 for the basic dual display(speed/depth) was just the start. But they don't tell you that and when you find yourself out of the ballpark pricewise, they nail you with a 5% restocking fee. I cut my costs and I'll work with what I have. The only thing that confuses me is that it happened at the same time the rpms. dropped to nothing. that was 1 and a half months ago and the speed and rpms have been consistantly at 5knts. 3000rmp ever since. What does a sudden drop in rpms. have to do with the boat speed display? Coincidence? I don't know, I'v run out of ideas accept for working with the display unit and it's components.
Thanks,
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S. Hull#531
Glendale, WI.
PERSONALITY.......SPOT ON !!!
I'll have to feel out the rig when it's being stepped. There's a guy that knows just about everything there is to know about everything sailing who can help me. He's the Yard Master at the Milwaukee Community Sailing Center. Great guy and an international Lightning, Soling, Laser etc. champion.
As far as growing rigs in the Milwaukee area, I'll tell ya, the first day I put my boat in the slip, a guy came over and told me he wants to sell his O'day and buy a bigger boat. I told him the market is just swelling with cheap boats and he said, " NO, I want a C&C Mark V, C & C's are the best built boats out there and he won't settle for anything but." But, he has to get thru his wife first. Yes, We just may have started something down here. I get a lot of looks(of course that could be because of the name---- K.I.S.S. stands for, keep it simple,stupid) But I've got nothing but compliments on the boat. EVERYONE says it's a GREAT boat and that I'm lucky to have one, esp. at the price I bought it for. It's got it's little quirks, like the starboard heel, the window leakage and repair issues etc. but don't they all? It's a sailboat....a labor of love and of course the big hole in the water we all throw money into. Gotta love it. I know I do. Been at it for 30yrs and counting.
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S. Hull #531
Glendale, WI. (suburb of Milwaukee)
Yea, that's the only time I really use it as well. It's also on a 4/1 ratio. My anchor point seems heavy duty on deck as well as below. I'm pretty confident it's done right but I'll keep an eye on it as I do with everything else on my boat. Like I said, It's only hand tight, just enough to stiffen up the rig. I like having it as an option. So, next season, I'm gonna lengthen the forestay and use some shims. I'm an Arborist for a local municipality and we use them all the time. They should work. Thanks for all of your wealth of info.
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S. hull #531
Glendale, WI.
That sounds like the right combination. I'm gonna keep it like it is for now and make the adjustments next season. As for the Baby Stay, I like it. It helps give bend in combo. w/the backstay tensioner and stiffens the whole rig. I've got it at hand tight. It's not like I've got it on a winch. From what you described, I think I have the STIFF mast, so anything helps. Thanks for the reply.
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S.
Mark V Hull# 531
Glendale, WI.
I think I'm going to REPLACE the knotmeter. Also, after several hours of it being on, it starts to fade in and out. I think it's time for a new one. Yea, I think I'm doing fine with the engine. I think all of those things just needed to be replaced and the choppy seas at the start of that race probably started something floating around in the system, or it was my air filter trying to burn thru the engine. Wow, there was hardly anything left of it but the screen. Thanks for the reply.
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S.
Hull #531
Glendale, WI
Thanks, I'm gonna take that link and see what I can get. 3/8" right? That sounds like it would give it the proper rake they recommend.
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S.
Mark V Hull #531
Glendale,WI.
Well, I've replaced the Racor fuel filter with the 2micron(which was on there when I bought the boat), the "on engine" fuel filter and the air filter(wow, glad I did that, it was almost non-existant.) After bleeding the system with the little lever on the engine and bleeding the Racor with the engine running, I took it out for a spin and it ran better but I was still at 3000rpm and only making 5knts. on calm water. I took a dive and checked the prop. All is good there. Could there be some kind of slippage or resistance going on from the motor back? Like I said, this happend suddenly, not over time and since then I have consistantly maxed out at 5knts w/3000rpm. My GPS says I'm doing 6knts. and My Horizon cockpit display has seen better days so I'm suspecting it may be the display unit, but it's too coincidental that I lost that knot right after the "event." I don't know, the engine runs great, I keep the tank full and use the recommended Yanmar fuel additive, so I guess I'll just have to live with it unless some one has any other suggestions. I sure would love that extra knot back. Musta lost it somewhere in the middle of Lake Michigan. I thought I heard a splash just before the rpms. took a dive<img src="emoticons/icon_smile.gif"> and I'm not getting anywhere with Yanmar dealers and the people that work on them. No response after repeated emails. Whatever.
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S. 1985 Mark V
Hull #531
Glendale, WI.
I have a 1985 Mark V 27' and was wondering how to get the rake that the forum and rigging instuctions I have found recommend. Nobody ever mentioned shimming. I just bought the boat and it had a Baby Stay that the previous owner removed. Well, I could not get the bend in the mast like they said I should so I rigged a new Baby Stay and that helped. But now I know I can shim the step. I always thought about that as being the only way to get rake in the mast but, like I said, it has never been mentioned until now when I just came accross this entry. Thanks for the info. What king of material did you use for the shim?
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S.
Hull #531
Glendale, WI.
That worries me about the caulk making the plexi deteriorate over time and also the expansion issue. If I have a problem with detioration of the plexi, I may go to Lexon. There is a company near me that does custom orders at a resonable price. I installed the screws in the spring when it was too cold to do anything else. I had the caulk in my Jeep with the heat blasting on it so I could use it when I was ready. So, it's been exposed to at least 30 degrees so far and 100 degrees this summer. So far so good. I've done a lot of sailing in some pretty nasty weather on Lake Michigan where I've just gotten pounded and everything held up nice, however, over time that may change. I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for all the great tips. I love this forum.
Joe Kiehm
K.I.S.S.
Hull #531 1985 C & C Mark V
Glendale, WI.
I have heard of a tape like that but I tend to overdo things so I can sleep at nite. It sounds like a good and simple idea. There will come a time when I will probably have to redo the windows again and at that time I will use that tape instead of the sloppy 5200, but I think the way I've got it, I'll either be in a new and bigger boat or the window would have to break. Thanks for the info. Let me know how to get a hold of the stuff because it sounds like it has many applications.
Thanks,
Joe
K.I.S.S.(keep it simple,stupid)
Hull #531
Milwaukee, WI.
I recently purchased a 1985 27'C & C Mark V and as she sits in the slip, she heels to starboard slightly. Is this normal seeing that much of the "stuff" like Galley, fresh water tank (which is empty) and cockpit setee storage are all on that side? I also have a small Microwave accross from the head and some things stored in the compartment below that, but it was heeling from day one. I've tuned the mast accordingly and she sails like a dream but this heeling business can't be right. Anybody have any comments or the same problem? Please let me know.
Thanks,
Joe