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David
Looked at those, but I feel that the views lack accuracy.
Frank
David,
Lots of places to get the s/s bits tig welded, my concern is the sizes to achieve the strength of the original. I will try to get a sail on a Trapper 501. These have a rudder similar (but may not be the same as) to the later 27's
Frank
David,
The only concern I would have in making a rudder is the specification of the rudder design, i.e. details of the tangs welded to the stainless tube, and the specification of the lay up.
I assume that the rudder section would be NACA 0012, for which I have full details
This week I found that the boat would remain stable with the tiller free at about 60 degree to port (rudder to port, tiller to starboard) at about 2000 rpm engine. (1000 prop) resulting in turning in circles of something in the region of two boat lengths diameter. No sails set, no wind to speak of, slack water.
In this condition, the rudder angle remained stable.
This is a desirable feature.
I also had a discussion with a Simrad salesman wrt a tiller pilot, and he thought that the rudder loads, and rate of change of load with angle may well be unacceptable, and thought load measurement was necessary.
Frank
Dave,
Thank you for the comment.
I have just made an adjustable strut, which is the remains of a dead (Navico) tiller pilot, to see if that will help, will try it out this weekend..
I am often single handed.
The outer harbour I use most frequently (Weymouth, Dorset, England) is fairly narrow, busy with yachts, dinghies, fishing boats and rowing boats ferrying holiday makers across.
The concept of a sudden hard turn to port is simply not acceptable.
My last boat (Hustler 25.5) didn't do this, but gave enough time to put out a fender, etc.
The fundamental difference between the boats, which are quite similar in hull shape, both with balanced rudders, is that the balancing area on the C&C design is high, and in the prop wash, whereas the Hustler (Holman & Pye) has a higher aspect ratio rudder, which the balancing area at the tip.
Both boats are remarkably similar under sail. Impeccable.
Hence my query abut the later, higher aspect ratio rudder.
If I were to make a change to the rudder, I would rather fit a recognised design than cobble up one myself.
Is the later rudder available?
Frank Marsden
I have a Trapper 500, which has the MK I rudder design with tiller. Under sail the steering loads are light, but under power, quite heavy, and if you let go the rudder immediatly goes hard to port.
Does the later rudder behave similarly?
Frank Marsden
My last boat was fitted, in 1972, with a bronze through hull for the log transducer, (B&G, UK made) This turned out to be the exact same diameter as the 1998 Navman (NZ made) replacement. However, the Navman unit was shorter, necessitating some maching of the top of the bronze.
It is worth checking the diameter as this did save a lot of work, and I ended up with a superior quality through hull.
Conclusion. Even with the coincidence of diameter, not a job that can be done on the water, but could be done between tides on scrubbing posts
Frank Marsden
Greg
If you visit <A href="http://www.euroboats.com">www.euroboats.com</A> you will find that there is a boat listed as "trapper" which is the european version of a C&C 27 which has quote "18pk Yanmar" The implication is that this engine i.e 20hp or thereabouts Yanmar will fit a C&C 27
Frank marsden
The small drawings on the website show the top of the bunk mouldings at about lwl.
Has anyone checked this out?
I would like to glass in a box around the log through hull, as I hate the idea of the boat sinking, whilst I struggle to get the transducer in.
I always remove the transducer when I leave the boat, due to the soup we sail in.
Frank Marsden
Greg
I have just bought a Trapper 500, this is fitted with a Beta 20 hp three cylinder, and there is also a two cylinder 13.5 hp.
These are Kubota engines marinised in the UK
For the best possible deal email <A href="mailto:steve@albinvega.com">steve@albinvega.com</A>