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What little hose? Where is it?
Thanks. Barry
I suspect that we all have our biases, but I suspect all brands are very similar, if not the same given there are many more brands than refineries! I have been a life long Esso fan, and have always had good luck with it. But I think you can't go wrong with any quality name brand oil.
Barry Oasis, 1987 MkV
For years I have been draining the oil from my 1gm10 by removing the plug at the bottom front of the engine oil pan - can't miss it on my engine. [BUT BE VERY CAREFUL - there is a screen and a spring that come out - be sure to put them back in the same way.] That removes almost all of the oil. I then use a pump with about a one foot suction hose to get the rest from the back of the oil pan as the engine slants down at the rear. It's very easy, and works very well.
Barry, Oasis, 1987 MkV
Hi. If you check the C&C site, you will find copies brochures for both the 26 Wave - it lists bridge clearance as 34`6``. For the 27 Mk V it lists the I measurement as 35`5``.
Hope this helps.
Barry
Hi. With respect, you might want to recheck that. There is a Wave 26 about 2 or 3 slips from my 27 Mk V, and there are several older 27's in the marina too, tho I don't know the Mk's. The Wave has same hull as a Mk V, but a very small rig. Its mast has to be at least 3 feet shorter than my Mk V rig.
Good luck.
Barry, Oasis, 1987 Mk V, no 575
Congrats.
Barry - Oasis, 1987 Mk V - No. 575
Well, that has got to be disappointing. Hope you didn't get an oveerflow like I did. Not fun. Do you think it was just a simple failure, or a design issue?
Barry Oasis, 1987 Mk V
I think you are right Alan - the cause is less important than the effect. I just saw that Jabsco has a twist and lock feature - extra insurance to make sure nothing backs up out of the bowl. My one "flood" is enough. I think new improved model is in store for next season! Barry
Thanks Alan.
Oasis is indeed a Rhode Islander, with overboard discharge capability from the builder. And it is only with it turned to the overboard position that the leak back occurs. My speculation is that since the discharge is below the waterline, as is the toilet, increased pressure sailing in lumpy water may cause increased back pressure and exacerbate leaks, whereas there may not be the same back pressure when sewage is being pumped to the storage tank.
Barry
Different problem, but didn't think I needed a new thread ...
When my Y valve is turned to dump overboard instead of to the sewage tank, I get some water creeping into the toilet even when it is switched to dry bowl. This happens very slowly at berth, but is much faster and worse when underway in lumpy waters. I don't recall the toilet brand, but I assume that some valve is leaking in the flush / dry bowl lever set up. But if so, why is there no leakage back when it is switched to the sewage tank - even when it is completely full? Don't know what the guts of these toilets and valves look like. Is this worth trying to repair, or is replacement of the whole toilet a better investment of time and dollars? Appreciate any advice....
Barry, Oasis, 1987 Mk V
The mast is the same. I bought a used main and genoa from a full keel Mk V for my shoal keel. Exactly the same size.
As for speed, the only difference, I believe, is the slightly decreased pointing ability when beating. Boat is very quick.
You might be thinking of a Wave 26, which has a 30 inch winged keel and a smaller rig.
Barry, Oasis, 1987 Mk V
Thanks for the input. Winch servicing was much simpler than expected. And nothing went into the drink! With the old grease out and the new grease in it spins like a top. What a difference. Wish I had done it a long time ago.
Barry, Oasis, 1987 Mk V.
Hi.
I have sailed a 1987 MkV shoal keel (no. 575), built in Rhode Island, for 6 years now. I do not race. (Though a friend of mine says that anytime there are two boats out there is a race - a lot of truth in that!)The person I bought it from did race, and told me that it did not point as high as deep keel boats. A couple of years ago my friend had his C&C 29 Mk 2 out when I was out. He certainly could point higher. I have since upgraded my sails, and I can say it certainly improved my boat's pointing ability, but I have not formally tested it out with his boat.
What I can tell you is that in my experience pointing ability, or perceived pointing ability, is impacted by wind and wave conditions. At 10 to 12 knots of wind it is amazing how well she goes into the wind. That falls off a bit at 15 plus knots. I hesitate to put numbers on it, but on a recent trip, in quite heavy wind and waves, I could manage a little over 90 degrees tacks, but found it more efficient to go 95 to 100 degrees. Don't take that to the bank, because that is a sample of one observation on one day at one sail setting only. And, having said that, please note that sail trim and condition is extremely important and can make a huge difference, especially the genoa - the difference between a stretched out one, and a nice crisp tight one is not subtle.
I can say that the boat is a great performer, and can knock the socks off the Tanzer 26's and other boats of its size. And that is without handicapping! (As an aside - my fried races his 29, and wins some and loses some. Recently one of the Tanzer 26's beat him on the handicap even though my friend's time was considerably quicker. Wining is nice, but so is coming in ahead of the other boats!)
Sorry for rambling on. In closing, I can say that it is a great boat. I both cruise and day sail, mostly solo, and it does not disappoint. The shoal keel makes pull outs and trailering much easier, and is a definite advantage for lake sailors such as me. If racing were my priority, I might think twice, but for me it is even more than I expected, and I would buy it again.
Hope this helps. If you have any specific questions, please ask - I read the forum almost daily.
Barry, Oasis, 1987 Mk V
Thanks. Fortunately for me, mine do not require base removal. Hope I don't drop any parts in the drink - like I have done with tools. Will set up a little barricade for sure! I just made some "hats" from some scrap sunbrella. Hope it helps mine too.
Barry
Hi. I am about to service my Barient 18 winches. The attached article recommends marine grade lithium grease. I have found this in an aerosol spray can - is that what you are referring to, or do you recommend finding some in a tube or tub, which might, I suspect, be more viscous?
Thanks.
Barry, Oasis, 1987 Mk V
I ran across this folding Johnson toerail cleat recently. Doesn't look like much, but says can handle 2000 pound loads! I hope the link works.
http://www.pridemarine.com/index.cfm?category=10007|10453|10668&product=8554891&code=762799485108
Copy and paste the entire link (the whole line) – clicking on it doesn't take you to the appropriate page. - Admin
Thanks. Barton site says line can be up to 1/2 inch. I take it that means to cleat it in the top grove in the rubber. Do you see why heavier sheets would not self tail (mine are at least 5/8 or more (previous owner apparently liked very heavy sheets on a smaller boat!), though could not use the top groove to lock off the sheet?
Barry Oasis, 1987 Mk V
Has anyone tried the Barton Winchers - the rubber cap thingy that fits over top the winch head and, supposedly, makes it "semi" self tailing (my words, not theirs)? Certainly wouldn't be for racing - because need to more or less "fill" the winch with wraps for it to work properly - but for cruising? And is only about an $80 touch.
Barry Oasis 1987 Mk V
I think an item listing sources for unusual or hard to get parts is a great idea. Sometimes there is only one supplier, but more often there are lots, its just that we never thought of looking there for boat parts!
Barry, Oasis, 1987 Mk V
I get a lot of stuff from thechandleryonline.com - mail order from Ottawa. It price matches, shipping is reasonable, and very quick. I am pasting their link to Aurora Sure Step - is this the same stuff you use?
AURORA #A01420, SURE STEP WAX.
AURORA #A01420...more
The Chandlery Online #: 099_MA01420
Our Price: CAD$23.99
Thanks again.
Barry, Oasis, 1987 Mk V
I have been following these posts with interest. I am most curious about cleaning the deck. I have used several deck cleaners, but none do a great job, so will likely try the Zep method. What do you put or are you going to put on the deck of your boats to protect it a bit now that you have them so clean? I haven't found that the cleaners I have been using are any good at fending off dirt and stains.
Thanks guys.
Barry, Oasis, 1987 Mk V
What type of boat are you buying for?
Barry Oasis, 1987 Mk V
Have a look at general specification under guide to makrks. It says there that I = 33 feet. Don't think you can make it.
Thanks for the advice. Thought I would let you know how my temporary fix turned out.
When I assembled the tools and got to the repair, the shaft was dripping so fast that it was almost at the point of a small but steady stream. The automatic electric bilge pump was running about every 10 to 15 minutes. My boat has always been in fresh water, so there was no corrosion or sticking of the packing nut or locking nut. With experimentation, turned out that about 3/4 of a turn was required to stop leaking (stationary). I ran the prop (at the dock) for 15 to 20 minutes. Slight amount of water being flung off periodically, and shaft was barely even warm.
Several days later I returned to the boat. Not a drop of water coming from the shaft - totally dry in the engine compartment. I then motored for about 4 hours to make sure all was well, and tested the shaft temp with an infared thermometer. The water was 61 degrees F, and the shaft consistantly ran at 81 to 83 degrees F, with tiny droplets of water being flung off periodically. I doubt that more than a tablespoon or two collected under the shaft - not enough for it to run more than six inches or so before it evaporated. It appears this is within normal specs. So all is well.
The ships log shows that it was repacked by a previous owner in June 2002 with 5/16 teflon shaft packing at 132 engine hours. Now ships log shows that I tightened it 3/4 turn in Aug 2010 at 379 engine hours.
I expect I will likely repack it next spring.
Barry, Oasis, 1987 Mk V.
Hi. My 1987 Mk V appears to be an oil finish only. I re oil it every second or third year, and it is a little darker and a little more glossy after that. I do not know it it was prestained, but after two or three applications of oil on scratches, they are virtually invisible. However, all teaks are not equal. I built a little cabinet for my AM/FM/CD out of solid plantation teak and 1/4 inch teak plywood to match the woodwork, and just oiled it. It turned out much much lighter. So if you want the same colour, I think you might end up using a stain and oil, or whatever works to get the same colour and finish. Good luck.
Barry, Oasis, 1987 Mk V.