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What's the hoist on it Clare? I'm looking for a good working jib for my mk I.
Thanks,
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
For Atomic 4 issues and questions I would recomend Moyer Marine's site.http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/index.php
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
Give these guys a call. I would put a mk III rudder on when I replace mine.
http://www.fastcomposites.ca/site/marine/foils-a-z/cc/
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
By more teak, I meant more teak in the cockpit. My toerail doesn't go to the stern of the boat, I have a teak cap there. The top of my cockpit coaming is also teak at the stern and I have some just aft of the cockpit lockers. Was going to attach a photo, but I don't think this board will allow it. Here's a link to a photo in my Flickr account. http://www.flickr.com/photos/64497909@N00/9263071262/
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
I would imagine that the hoist is a bit long for my Mk1, but what is the luff length?
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
Not mine, but I noticed it a couple of days ago.
http://london.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-boats-watercraft-sailboats-spinnaker-W0QQAdIdZ465004054
We launch on the first weekend in May, so I still have a couple weeks to paint the bottom, compound and wax, re-wire the mast, possibly insulate the icebox, install my max-prop and generally claen the joint up. Good luck with getting yours sorted out, hopefully it is just an out of alignment issue. Would probably be the least boat bucks.C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
I had the same issues last season after putting mine in the water. Ended up being that the home made shaft coupler became out of alignment. I would think that easiest start to diagnose the problem is to sit in your cockpit locker and look at the shaft/engine while someone turns it from outside. If everything is staying nice and true then your prop probably isn't opening properly. If the engine moves around a bunch then I would disconnect the shaft from the engine and have the shaft turned again. If the shaft turns true spin your coupler while watching the engine. If it doesn't move around while turning the coupler you most likely have an alignment problem. Good luck.C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
Tal, could you send me an email? I'd like to discuss some sail things possibly some replacements?
Thanks,
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
Having mentioned that one of the interesting things I've noticed about my boat, being hull#4 and a "Hinterhoeller 27", is that there are differences from later Mk I's. Had not even thought that the windows could be different sizes.
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
I had mylar mains on my last two boats and we rolled them all the time. Sometimes it was easier and quicker, sometimes not. Had a boltrope on the luff instead of slides. Get prefeeder for it if you go that way.
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
37x8 for the rear windows, misread my own writing.
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
15x7 for the front and 33x8 for the rear windows should be a bit bigger than your original size so you can at least figure out what your new material will cost you.
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
Do you still have the aluminum frames? If yes you could send them to wherever you go to get plexi/lexan and get them to cut to that size and drill the same screwholes. Might cost a bit more $$$ but may be worth it.
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
sorry didn't make it down yesterday, but should defiinately get down Thursday. Do you just need length x height?
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
If I get a chance I'll take some measurements from my windows tomorrow. Otherwise my next trip down to the boat will probably be Thursday. Do you still have the original frames? I would imagine that silicone was used because the previous owner couldn't find, or couldn't justify the cost of the factory gasket material. I'm glad the previous owner of my boat re gasketed the windows about a year ago. What hull # is yours?
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
David do you have any pictures of the cockpit canopy?
Thanks,
Jeff
C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
So I have a couple questions that I'm curious about. Having hull #4 I'm curious where #1, 2, and 3 might be. Being a Hinterhoeller boat, what hull number did it change over to C&C? My boat neighbour has a '72 MK1 as well, but mine has more teak in the cockpit than his. Is this something that only happened on the Hinterhoeller boats?C&C 27 Mk I #4
Clockwork
Port Stanley, On.
I have a "spare" bow pulpit, but not specifically for a C&C 27. Located in SW Ontario.
C&C 27 Mk I #4
presently unnamed
Port Stanley, On.
If you could find one I would imagine that one of the Harken magic boxes would work well for your outhaul. I'm not sure yet what's inside my boom outhaul wise, but there is a Barient 6 attached externally so hopefully it's just the block at the end of the boom and the exit. Shouldn't even be too much longer before I finally get to sail it too.C&C 27 Mk I #4
presently unnamed
Port Stanley, On.
[If you have a Harken magic box in good condition, for heaven's sakes don't use it on your boat – sell it and use the proceeds to pay off your mortgage. Magic boxes are as rare as a used moral compass from the Harper gov't (available ones are all still in the original packaging) and correspondingly valuable. - Admin]
I haven't yet had the opportunity to start my 2GM with a key, let alone with a crank, but the previous owner was very good at keeping quite a bit of paperwork. The Yanmar 1GM, 2GM, 3GMD, 3GHM manual states the following regarding manual starting:
Pull the engine warm up knob and place the control lever in the "FULL SPEED" position.
And also place the starter key in the "ON" position in order to charge the battery after engine starts.
Raise the decompression handle to the "NO COMPRESSION" position.
Attach the starter handle with priming shaft as the angle shown in the figure and turn the starting handle hard, 5-6 times, and if the flywheel gains momentum....
Pull the decompression lever down to the compression position. Turn two or three times without stopping, and the engine will start.
After starting, return control lever from "FULL SPEED" to "SLOW SPEED"
Although I have a Yanmar owner's manual, parts manual, and shop manual I don't have a hand crank.