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No experience with this type of prop, but I'll be installing one in 2014.
Reverse problems may be "prop walk" related. The boat going more to one side than the other.
My shipwright said they have in the past, been known to deploy only one blade, since they are not geared.
I think the odds of this is extremely low, especially if the blades are clean. The odds are possibly the same as Charles Lindberg having his engine stop over the Atlantic in the 20s. So I would use it and enjoy the extra speed.
Are you finding the non geared prop, problematic?
Great news Kerry. Higher pressures will result, so I suggest adding "Seafoam" to all future oil changes to clean up the lower end, especially the rings. Some in the diesel fuel will clean out the injector pump as well.
Happy sailing for ALL of this summer.
Scott
It is not a total rebuild. Piston, but no crankshaft bushings. No crankshaft bearings. It changes rings and valves basically for over $540. I'm a transportation expert of sorts. Air and road, but I would never go that far in replacing parts.
You could get away very well with two valves seated by hand, check the valve guides for slap, and a new head gasket. Clean off excess carbon and douse the rings with carbon cleaner.
From Canada (Winnipeg) there is an on line boat engine parts dealer. Google that sentence, or order from Torrenson.
Or you overheated it and only need a head gasket.
Scott, being Scottish
Since this maybe its first rebuild, you may get away with a top overhaul(bad valves). The bottom overhaul is way more expensive, and rings wouldn't stop working just like that. You've probably burned a valve or two.
The boom is 11'2". The second measurement is 10' 8".
Scott
I have an almost new bright blue mainsail cover for my C&C 29 mark 0. But I wish I had a red one.
Last summer during a club race, a Corvette with new sails stayed right beside us for a quiet a while. We were on our C&C33 MkII. I was impressed.
I'm interested in buying your old compass to fill one the holes in my bulkhead, the I'll try to improve it.
Teflon tape on a new plug should do the trick.
You will extend the life of the material if you wash them by hand in the bathtub, spin dry them in the washing machine, and especially let them dry naturally, and not in the dryer.
Gelcoat doesn't stick to epoxy. Kijiji Toronto has 1/4" balsa core for sale.
I would like to sell my 2 bladed bronze propeller RH 12x9 with a 7/8" shaft size. Asking $120 plus shipping. Location Montreal, QC, Canada.
I could take in exchange: oil or temp guage with sending unit, genoa or other gear. "SOLD"
I'm having a good result with a penetrating teak oil that I added a red mahogany stain to, that retards the presence of grey, before, during and after application. Lol
If you believe the starter/selonoid is the problem, then from your description it is the starter, because the selonoid engages the starter but it doesn't act on the move. Aside from the connection to the 12 volts, you could check the amount remaining on the starter brushes. **The body of the starter is a ground through the bolts, and should have a good connection**.
There is a clue in that the previous owner had overtightened the filter with cause. But maybe he had chosen the wrong one, as being problematic.
Another test to do that is quick. Disconnect the lift pump of power. Usually dormant pumps let fuel through. Some of these C&C 27s run with only one 2-4 psi pump for the Atomic 4.
From page 29, it shows that the line in the tank is comletely submerged. So any pinholes in it are without consequence. I assume you do not have the optional #6 drain cock. In Figure 1,1 there is a vent line from top of the tank to the bottom of the tank. How it works, I'm not sure!
If you have to switch out the lift pump, there are some cheap universal pumps available with the same fittings.
Where is the new fuel line? Is the from the lift pump to bottom of the tank? I have your operating manual at www.marathondiesel.com. Page 29 for diagram. Have you drained a bit from the tank?
My start mode on the key ignition failed to work. So just beside the key, I now have a starter button connected to #3 position wire, and a new wire over to the #2 key position. But since you have a diesel, I don't know if the starter button alone, would start the engine without the alarm sounding.
More air prior to the lift pump. The line that descends into the tank probably is intact. The fittings at the top of the tank are a source of air if not snug. But I'm thinking the pump may be creating a vacuum in the tank, if the vent is blocked. And that vacuum will try to pull the fuel back into the tank. Churning it with air. The vacuum could draw air through the somewhat tightened fittings as well.
Check valves would be close to the engine but are not necessary. Any air in the line that you had, will not return. It may have got there by having a low level of fuel, and the line sucked in some air when the engine was running in rough seas. Possibly changing a fuel filter let some in. But it won't return.
You have sludge. Just just open up any old home heating system tank. The bottom is thick sludge. By the way, Seafoam is excellent in the crankcase as well.
Do you have a check valve in the system? Since you have a gradual deteriation in preformance of your diesel, I would give your tank a proper dosage of "Seafoam" to start cleaning out the sludge, all the way along the system. Sold at most autoparts stores.
Capt. Tom, since you are this far, can you remove the access plate behind the alternator. The T fitting going in to the plate could be blocked, and behind the plate there will be a lot of rust flakes. Enough to fill a cup. From in there you can poke up into the head passages for rust blockages. Replace plate with a gasket or quality silicone. Sometimes the plate and or T, is finished. Try to use stainless bolts afterwards.
Use sand paper to clean the oxidation from all electrical connections under bolts in the system. Negative ground as well. If not helping, jump the ignition from behind the dash. A wire from #2 setting to #3, with key on. If better then change ignition. Solenoid is OK.