C&C 27 Association Forum

I plan to replace aluminum fuel tank on C&C27 MkIII since i believe it has 30 years of accumulated crud and seems replacing w new Moeller plastic will have more peace of mind than re-installing old one.   It is original 76 liter in starboard cockpit locker.   

Only unknown is tank fore end disappears into firewall with no easy means of access.    not sure if anyone else has done this operation.   Once I remove bracket on aft end of tank, will tank slide out of fore end that I can't access?    I'm sure i can just try it, but rather know what's ahead.    Thanks
Steve
TS&CC, 1981 MkIII, Hull 886
Toronto ON

Hi

Apologies for not closing loop on overheating issue.  Issue was as simple as stuck thermostat.  I ran all summer without it and temp gauge stayed pinned on cold.
I also took Don Moyer's advice and pinched off by-pass loop, and still got good water volume out the transom exhaust -- so engine ports seem to be clean.   

Seems there is some controversy whether running without T-stat does any harm.  Not to tempt fate, i just bought one from Moyer and will go in next spring.   

Now unto next issue.   During winterizing I unscrewed brass plug out of manifold to drain water.    Now in putting back, i cant get threads to mesh.    Plan A is new brass plug.    Plan B is re-tap manifold.   Plan C is JB? Weld to seal it up for good.  Any similar experiences?

Thanks to all for great thread.

Steve
TS&CC, 1981 MkIII, Hull 886
Toronto ON

Captain Yogi Bear

I really appreciate all your advice and i like the long stories.  Feels like i am not alone in solving puzzles.    Through wonders of google, i previously located Moyer as a source, and you are right, they are super helpful.   Below is the note that i got back from Don the owner.  I am anxious to dig into his diagnosis when it stops raining on other side of lake from you.   Will inform what i find.

Also thanks for notes on electronic ignition and fuel pumps.   those are on my list.   i havent had this much fun since working on my 1973 Plymouth Valiant slant 6.

_________   
Hi Steve,

I wouldn’t buy anything at this time.  With good flow of water out of the transom (I’m assuming a late model engine), your high temperature is more likely caused by a localized restriction, probably in the “T” fitting or diverter cap in the middle of the water jacket side plate.  A restriction in this location will force water through the by-pass loop instead of through the engine block and head for cooling. 

You can test for this condition by simply closing off the by-pass loop using a small “C” clamp or vise grip pliers.  If the temperature comes down, it would pretty much confirm the “T” fitting and diverter cap as the culprit.

You can get a good idea of how severe the restriction is by keeping an eye on the water coming out of the transom.  If, as you slowly close off the by-pass loop, you start to lose water out of the transom, the restriction would be quite severe.  If the temperature comes quite quickly and you don’t lose much water out of the transom, the restriction would be relatively minor and you could remediate the condition (at least for now) with a by-pass restriction kit and get on with your season.  However, it this does turn out to be your case, you should schedule a removal of the side plate for checking and cleaning.

Don     

Steve
TS&CC, 1981 MkIII, Hull 886
Toronto ON

Hi

I did the Towser recommendations on Port side this winter.   A bigger job than intended since had wet or decayed balsa in the area.   So i ended up cutting several rectangles a few inches long within confines of track coverage.  From there, did as much digging and epoxy filing as possible.  I didnt have de-lamination prior and all seems solid now.

Seems there wasn't a  lot of room to move toward rails if i wanted to -- maybe 3 inches?   i dont have issues w sheet hitting stays using the original location.

but Towswer Captain is expert here, so await his wisdom
Steve
TS&CC, 1981 MkIII, Hull 886
Toronto ON

I am ready to embark on track repair as listed in Black Arts ala Towser.

Question is what is maximum radius to remove old balsa.   i cant say that moisture is limited to within an inch of hole.  should i keep digging wider and wider?  i assume some limit to how much area epoxy filler can be injected.
thanks
Steve Still
TS&CC
Toronto ON

Looks like i will have pleasure of doing the Genoa Track surgery this spring, and I like your approach described in "Black Arts."    With the test of time, are you pleased with durability (and waterproofing)?   Appears i already have access through bottom liner but holes can be bigger.   How much bigger you suggest to drill holes beyond diameter of hardware?

Thanks againSteve Still
TS&CC
Toronto ON

Thanks again. I have reviewed your Black Art post as well.  Just to make sure I understand the theory of  "Wish I had done Plan B".
1) drilling just reaches the foam core -- and given time, the foam will dry.
2) epoxy will adequately re-bond the shell to the core and preserve original foil shape

Have a view on how water-tight the final product is?   Not the sort of thing want to attempt every 2 years.

Appreciate all of your time