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Hi Chris,---- Where are you located?? I have a Haarstick, mylar #1 ( 153%) which is past it's racing prime but would be OK for cruising. The one difficulty may be that the clew is cut fairly low (being a racing sail) so it may not furl as evenly as one cut with a high clew, built specifically for furling. Also , of course , it has no U.V. strip. The luff tape is a #6.
I'm in Brockville Ontario , Canada
Clare Jordan - Aragorn Mk111- 1978, Hull #744
Aragorn, my Mk111, is "reaching maturity"--- ( Yea, right--- and I'm reaching "middle age"). The boat still has all the original hoses, with the exception of the bilge pump suction hose which was replaced 2 years ago.
While so far, the other hoses all look and feel sound (aside from the cockpit drain hoses feeling harder than I think they should be) they must all be suspect for failure at some point.
My question-- Has anyone replaced all their hoses and where (in Canada) did you find the right size hoses at the right price??
Clare Jordan
Tom-,
Been there - had that ( master switch failure). Since they're sealed against infiltration of any flammable/explosive fumes, there's no taking them apart to try repairs. As I recall, replacement wasn't that hard.
Clare, Aragorn
Hi Guest," Re removing the traveler from the bridgedeck of your Mk 111--- See my message, 4 back in this thread--
"However, when we tried to remove my old track from my bridge-deck so we could install the new one, we found the nuts were almost totally inaccessible and the track virtually impossible to remove.(It had to have been installed in the deck before the deck and hull were mated.)"
Good luck!
Clare Jordan
Correction:
The water drainage from the icebox onto the cabin sole or into the bilge is a PORT tack problem. ( No wonder all those other skippers are hollering at me during our races !!!)
Clare - Aragorn
Hi Fred,
Your problem with water from the icebox getting onto the sole (or into the bilge---where food residue from the icebox can lead to some nasty odours) is due to the end of the hand pump's discharge hose being lower than the level of the water in the icebox when on starboard tack. An easy solution is to drill a 1/16 inch hole through the plastic at the tip of the hose and fix a wire hook into it. Put a screw in the inside edge of the doorframe, up about 20 inches or more . Hook the end of the hose up there so it stays well above the water level in the icebox (even on stbd!).
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
Hi Bruce, Scalliwag27 et al,
Re crew placement:--- Keep the quick, helpfull, observant ones on board: Leave the others ashore.
CLare Jordan Aragorn
Sorry, Hugh and Guest for providing some mis-information re folding props. Hugh, was it always thus??
The other thing we both should have mentioned to Guest is that PHRF-LO is increasing the max L/P of the Genoa from 153% to 155% next year.
Clare Jordan
Hi Guest,
The proper fore/aft position for the car on any of your tracks is at the point on the track where, (with the sail sheeted in), all the "woolies" on the luff of your headsail will 'break' at the same time. This indicates that you've got the proper amount of twist in the sail. For example, if the upper, inner wooolies are unsteady whilst the others stream straight, or if they break first as you luff the boat up; reduce twist in the headsail by moving the car forward. Most skippers, once they've determined that proper point for each different headsail, mark those spots on the track(s). (Marker pen etc.).
Regarding inboard vs outboard tracks-- If the tracks overlap each other, you can generally move the block from the outboard track (or the toerail) to about the same relative fore/aft position on the inboard track when you wish to point a little higher in the absence of large waves-- The outer track (or toerail) generally gives a little more forward-power to punch through waves but sacrifices a degree or so on the pointing angle-- experience, (or the VMG toward a weigh-point on your GPS will tell you which option is better in different conditions).
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
Hi Rick,
I've had some success at finding items that are useful on a boat ( often at MUCH less cost than at marine suppliers) by looking for items in an R.V. store , such as "Camping World". I'll bet you'll find your table fittings there.
It seems that once someone attaches a "marine" label to something, the price doubles or triples--- as an example, there's a neat 2 slice toaster that works over top of your stove burner. Camping World, $7.50 . Same toaster in a "Marine" catalogue $ 16.00 !!! Go figure.
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
Hi Guest,
I have a Mk 111. The PHRF-LO (Lake Ontario) rating is 198 for NFS and 186 with spinnaker. This assumes the max. L/P of the Genoa used is 153%. (I once used a 163% genoa but if I recall correctly, it cost me 3 seconds per mile.)
PHRF make no allowance in ratings for a non-folding prop.
Clare Jordan
Dave,
I'd be interested in changing my A-4 to electronic ignition. Contact me pls.---
<A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet">bosco@ripnet</A> .
Clare Jordan
Just an update to my prior posts about play in the rudder/tiller connection. Over the winter I replaced the tube which passes through the top of the rudder post thinking that it had worn but I found that renewing the tube gave little improvement. What I DID discover was that the equivalent bolt to the original 5/16" but in metric size is a few thou. larger than 5/16". I put in one of these metric bolts and now everthing fits nicely again.-- might work for others with the same problem.
Clare Jordan
Hi,
Had the same problem about 7 years ago and as I recall, once I got the book out and saw what had to be done, the most difficult part was getting into a comfortable position inside the locker to be able to physically do it. Also, a magnifying mirror (like you use for shaving or applying make-up) will help you to see down into the tranny because you don't have room to get your head into position directly over top of it. Hang/wedge/tape the mirror in place so you can use both hands on the tools.
I don't know if I could manage to adjust my clutch today--- My lockers must have gotten water into them and they've shrunk considerably since I last had to spend time in there!
Clare Jordan
Hi Dave and Warren,
Not to be picky, but I'm betting that Dave meant to say "tighten the nuts carefully and gently" in offering advice about sealants for the toerail. Turning the screws breaks the contact between them and the sealant.
Clare Jordan
Hi Warren,
I know some boats which have a tabernacle at the mast base can have the mast connected then use a "gin pole" ( some use the boom) and lines to raise the mast-- don't know if those techniques would be applicable to your boat. As for the sails, any sailmaker who is worth buying a sail from will have access to the "I","J", "P" etc dimensions for your boat and , I'm sure, will recommend a suitable cloth.
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
This week I was perusing an old issue (March 2004) of a magazine called "Latitudes & Attitudes" and came across a suggestion there regarding leaks. I haven't tried it but it sounds reasonable and similar to the "Creeping Crack Cure" mentioned above. --- to quote them --
"Mix a capful of Acetone with some West epoxy. The thinned solution will "follow" the water. Let it harden and recaulk". --- Sounds like it might work since Acetone is a solvent for West epoxy and would evaporate from the solution leaving the epoxy mixture to harden in the crack/cavity.
Incidentally, I forget who gave me this tip but I've been doing a couple of basement boat projects this winter using West epoxy and did much of the brush and roller clean-ups with vinegar!!! Vinegar doesn't get it all but the little bit of epoxy that's left after a vinegar swish and a good wipe, cleans up with a minimal amount of Acetone-- less smell, less cost and safer too!
Clare Jordan
Re Haarstick sail-- I had great performance from that sail. It was bought from John Clark (Shark Worlds Champ & excellent sailmaker- for Shark sails in particular) at Kingston Sail Loft at a time when he was in association with Haarstick and could buy their pre-cut panels and do the assembly in Kingston. John doesn't have this arrangement anymore with Haarstick.
Because John is such a competent guy, I could never really figure out whether it was his touch or Haarstick's design that made that sail work so well-- likely 50/50.
Clare
The North #1 sail ,advertised above, has found a new home . The Haarstick #1 is still available - $625.
Clare Jordan
One of the jobs I've neglected to do forever, has become a New Years resolution-- Now, can someone please tell me how many foot/pounds of torque to apply to the keel bolts when I check them this spring ??
Thanx, Clare Jordan
Hi All and Happy New Year.
For those who've been following this rig tuning discussion and who, like me, are not able to leave your mast up all year, here's a quick tip. Once you've gone through all the steps to get that mast vertical, in proper alignment and with the appropriate amount of rake etc., don't lose all that tweaking and twiddling when you pull down the mast. Just before loosening those turnbuckles, make a couple of turns of electrical tape around the turnbuckle threads, right at the outside edge of each turnbuckle barrel. When you put the mast back up, simple tighten each turnbuckle back to within a half turn or so of last season's stored settings (tape) and you're ready to sail again with minimal need for re-tuning everything !!
Clare Jordan Aragorn
One afterthought on leaks-- There is a British product which I've used with some success in a couple of places. It's called "Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure". It's a milky fluid that has very low surface tension which allows it to penetrate into fine cracks where it hardens into a transparent, flexible seal. It is no good for a large leak since it will flow right through but I found it seemed to work on the joints between the teak grabrail and the deck.
Clare Jordan
I have two Mylar, tri-radial cut, Genoas for Mark 111 for sale. Both have L/P's
of 153% ( max. under PHRF without a penalty). One sail is by North and the other was designed and cut by Haarstick and assembled by Kingston Sail Loft (John Clark).
Both sails have windows, tell-tails and draft stripes and are fitted with #6 luff tapes. While these sails are "past their prime" for really competitive racing, they would provide someone with a few years of cruising at about 1/5 the cost of a new sail.
Clare Jordan , Brockville Ont. e-mail <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> phone 613 498-2029
In a pinch (and without heatshrink tubing and a heat gun) a 14 inch length of duct tape will temporarily connect two lines butt to butt. Lay the tape , sticky side up and butt the lines together in the centre of the length and at the edge of the tape. Then roll the lines and tape -- just like the old hand-made cigarrette. Test-pull as "IRIS" suggests, before hauling one line through with the other.
Clare Jordan
A lightly abrasive cleaner like "old Dutch"/ "Ajax" etc. and some elbow grease will make quite a difference. Works nicely too on the cowl vents for the bilge and on the two plastic access plates on the aft end of the cockpit.
Clare Jordan , Aragorn