C&C 27 Association Forum

Shaft from my A-4 is 7/8.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa

Courtesy of Darrell Nicholson, editor of Practical Sailor, here's an observation from his editorial in the upcoming February issue:

"Few cored decks past their second decade are without some problem areas. Sound with a plastic mallet for soft spots and delamination at all deck penetrations, particularly near hardware, hatches, and chainplates. Beware that the extent of the damage may be far greater than what even a trained surveyor suspects."

Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa

Further on Bayview Propellor. Proprieter Dennis Johnston confirms that their website is down and that they're looking for a new ISP. Meanwhile, if you have no luck locally, their e-mail address and phone number in the earlier message are current. Johnston says they can repair, replace (if they have an old one) or recast. Over to you -- and, again, good luck.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa

The current issue (February) Canadian Yachting has a display ad for Bayview Propellor Repair in Woodview, Ontario. It indicates that they do strut repair/replacement. They're at <A href="http://www.bayviewpropellor.ca">http://www.bayviewpropellor.ca</A>, e-mail <A href="mailto:bayview.propellor@sympatico.ca">bayview.propellor@sympatico.ca</A> or phone (705) 654-4409. I'd appreciate, as others probably would, knowing how you resolve the problem. Good luck.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa

I'll offer it to DW -- likely next week once I've cleaned up some of my metal work.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa

Don't know where you're based, but if in Canada you should give Genco a call; they have patterns for many boats and may have a solution. Their site is <A href="http://www.gencomarine.com">http://www.gencomarine.com</A>. Good luck.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa

You could say, Mike, that you've have an epiphany! Seriously, I'd like to know how the finish holds up down there where the UV loading is much longer-term and persistent than up here. Haulout is only six weeks away for us!
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa

Cutless bearing is the rubber lining of the shaft strut. It's an out-of-the-water job and if done while things are still wet shouldn't be much of a problem. If yours hasn't been done to your knowledge, I think you'll find it worthwhile to replace it. Maybe others have some thoughts on this. Check the subject list.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa

Further to my earlier response, here's Practical Sailor's verbatim advice in the August 2006 issue in response to a question about varnishing:
"It’s 90 percent surface preparation and cleanliness.
"The varnish work will be only as good as the surface to which it’s applied. If you don’t like the looks of the surface when you’re through sanding (with perhaps several grits), varnish won’t help it. If you go for an electric sander, get a random orbit model; they’re much better than conventional sanders. There’ll still be lots of hand sanding, and for some of that, use a rubber block. If you don’t mind aged and darkened varnish, just smooth the surface—don’t cut through the old varnish—and give it some "tooth" to make the varnish adhere. Pay attention to joints, corners, and edges. That’s where varnish often fails. If you start stripping part of the varnish (taking it down to lighter, new wood), you’ll probably wind up stripping all of it. However, you needn’t do it all at once.
"Finally, for cleanliness, use a tank vacuum cleaner with a long-bristled brush, and be meticulous. Then rub over the surface with a bare hand to pick up any fine dust. We’ve found this works better than a tack cloth.
"Varnish in a protected area, if possible. If outdoors, do it early on a dead calm morning before the dust gets kicked up. The type of brush doesn’t matter much; the only advantage of an expensive badger hair brush is that it carries more varnish and makes spreading a little easier.
"If the job isn’t as perfect as you like, start all over: Lightly sand and brush on another coat."

Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa

This may be more than you were asking for, but here's what I gleaned from a number of friends and websites:
1. Always work at the recommended temperatures and use a tack cloth before varnishing and work in a dust-free environment; some people even resort to laundered coveralls and a shower cap to keep body detritus (druff, etc.) off the finish.
2. Strain the varnish (even Epifanes, which I have used to good effect) through disposable sieves available from any paint store.
3. While it's often recommended that you buy the best brushes you can afford, many folk opt for disposable foam applicators which, since you toss them after each use, means there's no retained residue to worry about.
4. Use a new tack cloth before the finishing coats.
5. The adage "patience is a virtue" is worth heeding when applying varnish.

Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa

The advent of the Mark III saw an increase in draft to 4.46 feet from the 4.25 feet that prevailed on the Marks I and II. It was coupled with a shift forward in the thickest part of the chord in a bid to reduce stalling. The additional two and a half inches of draft was carried through to the Mark IV. To my knowledge, C&C never produced a "shoal draft" version of the Mark III. It's easy enough to confirm with the boat out of the water. If somebody has sliced off a piece of keel to reduce the draft, don't walk away from the boat. Run! That said, I think the discrepancy could be simply a misunderstanding by the current owner or broker. Good luck -- and, obviously, if you do buy her, don't forget to take out an association membership!
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa

Hi Mike. Presume you've tried Ridalco (used to be Rideau Aluminum Co.) on Michael St (parallel to St. Laurent off Belfast). They carry a broad range of tubular stock and if they don't have the right size, they'll perhaps point you in the right direction. Good luck.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa