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Forgot to ask for your e-mail address so that I can send you pix.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Pads. Much handier for bottom painting in that you can let one down to paint while the others handle the load.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
On my fully-battened North main, there is a type of Lazy Jack arrangement (at least I assume that's what it is) comprising lines down much of the leech and a series of stainless steel rings about an inch in diameter. The sail bears a Lazy Mate label. I'm having trouble figuring out how it should work; it's not as intuitive or straightforward as conventional Lazy Jacks and North has been less than helpful. Anyone else have this setup or know someone with another boat type who has it? If so, I'd appreciate some advice. Thanks in advance.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
The keel shape pretty well mandates a cradle; the boat simply wasn't designed for jackstand support. In addition to adjustable pads at each corner, I'd suggest a fifth pad on the front crossbar to provide additional support forward of the keel. Some even have a sixth pad on the rear crossbar. I think there's a place called the Cradle Shop in the Toronto area which has patterns for folding cradles and I'd imagine you'll find fabricators in any good-sized city. If that's not a practicable option and you're a good welder with access to steel, I don't think it would be hard to fabricate a cradle. I'd be happy to provide dimensions and digital pix of my Mark III's cradle tomorrow or Thursday.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
[Marine Cradle Shop is: http://www.yachtsales.com/trailers/mcs/cradles.html - Admin]
I recently went up the mast on a friend's new-to-him CS27, which has a Hood unit that had a lot of resistance to being furled. Examination of the top of the furler extrusion with binoculars had indicated that the top bearing, which ensures that the forestay remains in the centre of the foil, was missing. He ordered the parts from Quantum Hood in Toronto and they were delivered the following morning by courier. Including going up in a bosun's chair, it was a 10-minute job which required only a screwdriver and a small soft-faced mallet to tap the two half-cylindrical plastic fittings down into the foil around the forestay. We also discovered that the two-piece donut-shaped bearing which has a similar function at the bottom of the furler also was missing and replaced that too. The furler now works smoothly and with minimal effort. I believe his total cost was about $80. When you're up the mast or (if you bring it down to do the work), check that the top edge of the furler extrusion hasn't chafed the forestay. If there are any signs of abrasion, replace the forestay pronto. Good luck.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
All this chatter about a "master fuse" brought to mind a suggestion by Don Casey in his book on "boating electrics", i.e. there should be an in-line fuse close to each battery and equivalent to the maximum expected load. I hope I've summarized that correctly. Anyone have a setup of this nature on their 27?
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
If you'll let me have your e-mail, I'll forward it to a friend here who has a 26. I'm reachable at <A href="mailto:ken.pole@sympatico.ca">ken.pole@sympatico.ca</A>. Cheers.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
In my Mk III, the compartment on the port side under the forward settee is open to the bilge but the one under the after settee isn't. Has anyone drilled through to provide drainage? There seems to be lots of room (examined with a flashlight and mirror) between the hull and the underside of the liner, but I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice from someone who has made a similar modification. Thanks in advance.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Anchor clips made by Davis, but their website -- <A href="http://www.davisnet.com/marine/products/marine_product.asp?pnum=2200">http://www.davisnet.com/marine/products/marine_product.asp?pnum=2200</A>, says they've been discontinued. I believe I saw some for sale at htt:/www.boatforsale.net in their classifieds under gear and/or accessories or somesuch. Good luck.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
It certainly has been informative and has made me rethink my options. The anchor clips are a convenient place to keep my Danforth but it's esthetically displeasing. That said, it's a boat! I know quite a number of people who jib-and-mail race as well as one design and while some remove their anchors from the bow (mostly the one-designers) for the duration of a race, others leave them on. Purists may disagree, but I can't think the 20 pounds or so of an anchor makes that much difference when you're talking an all-up boat weight of three tons. I can't recall who makes the clips I have but you'll find them holding Danforths or their clones on many a bowrail. I'll check for a manufacturer this evening and post a follow-up note unless someone beats me to it with the informatin. Best.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Does anyone know anything about the C&C Sailing Association at <A href="http://www.cnc-owners.com">http://www.cnc-owners.com</A>, which has its mailing address in Connecticut? It has a link on its site to our group but attempts to communicate with various members of its executive have proved fruitless; I even sent them a money order for membership in January but it was never cashed! Thanks in advance.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Bruce:
Very useful -- just what I was looking for. Many thanks.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Is anyone aware of a comparison sheet on winch sizes? For example, what models of Barient, Harken, Andersen, Lewmar, etc., would be closest in capacity to Barlow 23 two-speed self-tailers? Thanks in advance.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Having had extensive dealings with SSY since last year, I've also found them difficult to reach by e-mail (they invariably are apologetic for not responding) but almost always accessible by phone (if you have to leave a message, they're quick to return the call). Once contact is made, they have been not only very reliable in shipping parts but also generous with advice. And, noting David's reply, should point out that I'm in Ottawa, which most Canadians seem to have the same regard for as Americans have for Washington. Good luck.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
I'm interested in what types of rode are being used through a hawsepipe, i.e. chain and line, all chain, all line. If either of the latter, any problems with hockling in the well? Again, thanks for all the useful advice.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
My early Mark III lacks the anchor well which was inaugurated later in the production run. The anchor (Danforth) currently is stowed, as is common, on two clips attached to the pulpit with the rode brought forward from cockpit locker stowage. While the anchor stowage is acceptable, if somewhat unsightly, I'd like to leave the rode attached. Accordingly, I'm contemplating installation of a hawsepipe (installed where the current centre cleat is through-bolted) into the bow compartment, which I'd block off from the V-berth area with a gasketed removable bulkhead. The single mooring cleat and a matching one would be installed closer to the toerails, as in later IIIs and IVs, with appropriate backing plates. This obviously presents a drainage challenge: should I simply let the wet rode drain through to the bilge (which has attendant smell problems) or can I drill a drain in the stem? If anyone has done a similar conversion, I'd be interested in hearing about it. Also, are there any other issues -- other than the usual one about going through a cored deck -- to be considered? Thanks in advance.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
The tank is essentially rectangular. Affixed in the starboard locker, it measures 27" fore and aft, 16.25" wide and 11.75" deep. Once it had been siphoned empty (I removed the sender to give me easy access with a hose), I detached the various fittings (filler, vent and fuel line), undid the wooden clamp which secures the tank to its platform and then rotated the tank 90 degrees, which enabled it to clear the locker rim with a couple of inches to spare. Being aluminium, it was easy to handle. If you like, I can photograph the reinstallation, which will be the removal in reverse, and either e-mail or post you the pix. I gather from another website (Atomic 4 Forum or Moyer Marine Forum) that if you have a cylindrical tank, you can get it out if you remove the cockpit locker lid. That said, I understand that there may have been more than two configurations and that some tanks are steel, others Monel (nickel-copper alloy). Good luck.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
I had been wondering about that. I did ask a more knowledgeable colleague about Teflon tape and he said it would be okay, but my auto mechanic says he wouldn't use tape except on water-system connectors. So pipe compound it shall be! Thanks again.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
I'm in the throes of cleaning my entire fuel system, having just taken delivery of Moyer Marine rebuild kits for the carburetor and mechanical fuel pump, both of which showed some crud and were the likely culprits in causing what I suspect was fuel starvation. I removed the fuel tank on the weekend (a no-brainer after it was siphoned). Made by Mirax Corp. of St. Louis in September 1975, it's aluminum. An inspection with mirror and light shows no evident corrosion but I've rinsed it several times with methyl hydrate because of concerns about any lingering crude which I wouldn't want after going to the trouble of carb and pump rebuilds. The fittings for the sender, filler and vent seem in excellent shape but since I've got it all apart, I do plan to replace all the hoses, etc. Anything else I should be looking for? Thanks.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Apologies to the several latecomers; the ladder has been sold.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
I have an Avon which wasn't new when purchased in 1989. It has been wiped down with ArmorAll a couple of times each season and apart from limited wear and tear, is still in beautiful shape. Mind you, the season up here is somewhat shorter than yours and the UV impact, while significant in summer, is concomitantly less. Cheers.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Hi David. If and when you do decide to replace that folder, I'd be interested for my A4. I can be reached directly at <A href="mailto:ken.pole@sympatico.ca">ken.pole@sympatico.ca</A>. Cheers.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Pristine Klacko welded SS stern ladder. Four rungs, including top that fits into SS hull brackets (included, as are fasteners and backing plates). Approximately 16" wide, 38" long. Doglegged at second rung to accommodate traditional transoms as found on C&C 27s and 30s. Open to realistic offers and, given shipping costs, would prefer to sell within Canada. I can be reached directly at <A href="mailto:ken.pole@sympatico.ca">ken.pole@sympatico.ca</A>.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Doh! Further research indicates that the masthead light is a Davis Mega Light and that what I thought was a diode strobe assembly actually is a switch that turns it on at dusk and off at dawn. There's a "measure twice, cut once" analogy here some place. Cheers.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
My masthead light is a strobe. Is this legal or must I replace it with a continuously-lit unit? Can't find an answer in the Transport Canada colregs or other sites. Thanks in advance for any help.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa