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I have replaced the outer handrails on my MK I, and now am ready to install the internal handrails which screw thru the deck into the outer handrails. Can anyone tell me what the correct size and screwlength should be? The old ones were apparently 3 1/2 #14's, but my measurements suggest the "bite" for holding would only be about 1/4". I am using the original internal handrails, so I did not intend to modify the countersink.
Also, finding any SS phillips head woodscrew over 3" seems to be near impossible. Anyone know of a source? I hope to stay away from bronze.
Warren Smith
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
I have 12x3.5 flat phillips ss screws left over from my handrail project. I had to buy a box of 50 that cost me $30 in order to get such a one-off screw. Email me at <A href="mailto:scalliwag27@cogeco.ca">scalliwag27@cogeco.ca</A> if you're interested.
I just re-seated one of the hand-rails. The original screws were bronze, which we replaced with stainless. And you're right - you can't find 3 1/2" in your local Home Depot. I found what I needed in a specialty fastener store. We also found lag screws in the forward sections ahead of the inside rails.
Any comments on the dowel replacement for the inside rails? I haven't got to that part yet. Do we need to seek out teak?
Fred
You can find most specialized fasteners at a place like this: <A href="http://www.brafasco.com/home.htm">http://www.brafasco.com/home.htm</A> but of course it depends where you are, plus they sometimes require a minimum order of (about) $30. They have other useful stuff, though, so it's pretty easy to find something to spend the minimum on.
Teak plugs are usuall readily available at any decent marine shop. You will want to place them with a sealant that will 1) take stain/cetol/varnish, and 2) release if/when you need to take them out again. Then sand them carefully to match the curve of the handrail and stain. They usually come small bags of about 12 plugs and are of 2 different sizes: 3/8" and 1/2", I think. Don't forget to line the grain up when installing.
For those who may be wondering: the easiest way to get old plugs out is to take a thin screw and screw it in until it grabs the plug. Then pull with pliers. Or, if the screw is long enough, just keep turning until it hits the sunken fastener head below and turns the plug out. You may want to consider carefully scoring any varnished surface around the rim of the plug beforehand to reduce the risk of splintering around the plug.
Gord.
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David,
Thanks, but like the others - nothing over 3"
Warren Smith
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
Gord,
I'm shocked at you – buy teak plugs??!! Real men cut their own teak plugs from the scrap left over from making their own handrails or what-have-you (which in turn, are made from trees the real man has journeyed to Thailand to select, cut down and transport home on his own vessel, made with his own hands, axe and chainsaw).
Aside from that, cutting the plugs from the scrap gives you a better colour match. Plus, the decision to buy a new plug cutter gives you an excuse to visit Lee Valley or Atlas Machinery for a hour of happy browsing.
I set plugs with varnish, which satisfies both the compatibility and removability requirements. The last time I did any plugging (new cabin sole), I had great results with a Lee Valley "flush-cutting" saw – it is fast, eliminated the chipping you sometimes get when using a chisel and minimized the sanding.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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Dave,
Using varnish to seat the plugs is a damn good idea - why don't you tell that to the bozo who put all those plugs in the woodwork in my boat - but BEFORE he does it. I am going through it refurbing a number of things, and it's a real challenge to remove the old plugs without tearing up the woodwork. I didn't know they had Gorilla Glue back in '72.
Warren Smith
Serendipity
Galveston Bay, Texas
Shame on me----I should go out and finnish off those plugs I put in 8 weeks ago on the slider and the stern rail cap-----set of course with varnish. I strongly suspect that the original plugs were "set" with the excess ooze of 5200 sealant used to bed the original #8 screws. That was probably done on a Monday morning on the production line.Dave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
I think original plugs are more likely to have been set with resorcinol. Cheap, with a long pot life.
I don't remember 5200 before about 1985 – perhaps later – and they certainly wouldn't have used anything that expensive on the C&C production line. Their style then was Tremco tape, the grey goo that seeps out of your hull/deck joint. It is cheap as dirt (I think that's one of the primary ingredients) and never sets, so even if the boys left it lying around the plant while they were in on the weekend guzzling beer and working on their own projects, it wouldn't go to waste.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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David---you're right about the 5200---only in the last 20 yrs or so. This stuff had the "texture" of cured 5200--white, rubbery, tenaceous, uncooperative, ineffective, expensive, etc, etc. Could'nt have been 5200 'cause this stuff didn't attach itself to my brand new, "going ashore", nicely pressed, firmly creased, "DOCKERS" , long pants......Dave Tinder
DAWN BREAKER Mk3
Ft Myers
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