This Forum is supported by C&C 27 owners like you whose membership in the C&C 27 Association makes possible this Forum and the accompanying site. Thank you, members, for your continuing commitment.
You are not logged in.
Pages: 1
I'm a newbie looking for advice from those more experienced. This is our first boat. It's in great shape just needs polishing up. I've completely emptied the boat and want to get to work on the wood, both interior and exterior. What is best varnish or Cetol. Some of the interior wood around the sinks and companionway is discoloured by water. Will cetol mask this? As the veneer is so thin what prep work is recommended? Any advice or experiences would be appreciated
Doug Heldman
Quicksilver C&C 27 III
Doug Heldman
Quicksilver C&C 27 III
Offline
I used to use a Cetol-like product called Deks Olje on the exterior of the boat, which gave a nice matte finish. The important quality about Deks Olje that set it apart from Cetol is that Deks didn't have that orange tint, which I don't like. Deks Olje broke down fairly quickly, so you had to put on several coats during the season to keep it looking good. From what I can see, Cetol doesn't break down so quickly, but goes very rapidly from 'needing attention' to 'disaster' much more quickly.
I now use varnish (Epifanes). I put two coats on in the early spring and another in the fall if I get the opportunity (I'm not convinced I need to do this). I also touch up gouges as soon as possible. My varnish doesn't look like the very best, but it shows up the grain of the wood, it does look much more attractive than Deks Olje ever did, and it's miles ahead of Cetol.
As a year-to-year work cycle, I don't think it's really much more work looking after varnish than putting on the Deks Olje, so I'd have to assume that it's about the same hassle level as Cetol. The big difference is that you have to be more careful about the weather (not too hot, not too cool), you have to be more organized, and you have to be more conscious of how you wield a brush.
Recently, Gougeon Brothers has started promoting the idea of epoxying bare trim, then varnishing over the epoxy. The epoxy stabilizes the wood so the varnish lasts much longer. I wouldn't do this unless you had the wood right off the boat and could strip and epoxy the entire piece.
A caveat about Cetol: if you use it, make sure it doesn't get on the gelcoat. Cetol bonds with gelcoat, so if you get a run or a drip on your nice white deck, it won't come off unless you sand it off.
Down below (with the exception of the teak right at the companion), we use lemon oil on all the wood. It makes the wood look good, doesn't get sticky and (very important) kills mould if it touches it. I know people who have varnished their whole interiors, but it's a hell of a lot of work and I can't be bothered.
Sometimes you can remove dark stains with oxalic acid (do test patches first). In your situation, I would have a look through a book like the Fine Woodworking book on wood finishing. A good book is more likely to help you than some of the screwball ideas I've heard from the Mr. Fixits at yacht clubs - and that probably includes any ideas you might get from me.
Good luck.
David Weatherston
"Towser", Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Offline
How can I tell what is on my weathered exterior trim now? Can I varnish over old cetol? Can I cetol over old varnish?
This is a classic question....... On previous boats I have used Varnish, it looks great, smells great, chips, wears well, costly, easily repaired, generally a good finish. If you plan to use the boat hard, racing, or have lots of kids on board I would recommend Cetol. Two or three coats in the spring does the job with the exception of areas where it gets alot of traffic then it does require more touch up work. One my 27 Mklll a quart will last several seasons here in Maine.
Down below... since the boat is finished off in Teak, I have used Watco Oil...which applies easily but does required ventilation. Made for teak and does not darken the interior.....it also can be used under Cetol or Varnish but bring back the color of teak in damaged areas....
'IRIS'
C7C 27 Mklll
Kittery Point, Maine
Interesting! I looked at Watco Oil and it appears to be made for the Marine Teak application. What sort of surface preperation is required? I am assuming it is 1975 Varnish on the interior.
Doug Heldman
Quicksilver C&C 27 III
Doug Heldman
Quicksilver C&C 27 III
Offline
In response to the application of Watco Oil. Generally speaking it is best applied with a soft rag and rubbed into the surface, be sure to dispose of the rag in a fire proof container or a bucket of water....rags do/can burst into flames as with any oil based product.
If your boat has not been refinished in a couple of years then start with a scruffy pad. Take a clean one that your wife uses to do the dishes, cut it into a 3 inch square. Dip it in the Watco Oil and scrub the surface, best in the direction of the grain. After you have done an area about the size of one bulkhead, wipe it dry with a clean rag....I always let the first coat dry a couple of days as the Watco Oil will sink into the surface. You can re apply the coats to the height of finish you desire. The thinner the coats the quicker it will set up, thus apply a coat, wait 15 to 30 minutes to see if the oil is thickening and then wipe dry.
I did two coats on a boat that had not been used in three years and I do not know when it was touch before that. The two coats made the inside look new.
best of luck,
'IRIS'
C&C 27 MKlll
Kittery Point, Maine
Pages: 1