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After 7 years of sailing Critical Path with a squishy deck, she's finally in the shop for the replacement of about 60 square feet of soggy core this winter! I was down at the boat the other day taking a wackload of pics to figure out what deck hardware to keep, what to turf, & what to replace.
We're gonna move the stanchions out to the rail with new bases from HMP & delrin shims for inserts, but can't justify the expense of new pulpits, so I've spec'd solid glass under all pulpit base points. Other than taking off a bunch of old unused hardware & 3 winches & replacing some equipment with newer pieces, there won't be many changes in deck layout, just some updating!
My questions are to those who have double lower shrouds (Marks II, III, & IV). What I'm trying to figure out is genoa tracks. I've got 42" tracks just outside the coaming that work fine for the #1 & #2 so they'll stay where they are, but I'm wondering what to do for the blade. We've been sheeting to a snatch block on the toe rail & using inhaulers (a real "Rube Goldberg" creation that works, but not efficiently!). The sail's shape was built for a compromise sheeting location somewhere between the rail & a favoured inboard position. My sailmaker assures me it'll work more effectively if I install permanent inboard tracks, but I'm not sure I agree with his suggested location, so I'd like some more input.
Could you please describe if/where (fore-and-aft & side-to-side) you have forward tracks mounted on the side decks? Between the inners & outer? Or inside them all? How long should the tracks be? How do you run your sheets through the shrouds?
Another important decision I need to make is how to "prepare" the deck below the inboard tracks. The shop says overdrilled holes, filled with epoxy, & redrilled to fit the bolt size will work just fine (& that's how the rest of the deck equipment will be installed), but I'm not sure. The tracks carry an incredible load at times, & I've found them almost impossible to keep sealed for more than a year... Wouldn't solid glass at the track mounting spots be a better solution? What about backing plates? How to construct them without damaging (or squashing!) the interior liner?
Thanks in advance for any &/or all advice!
Cheers,
Tal Wolf ../)../)..
Critical Path, C&C 27 #632
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Tal,
Sorry this is off topic a bit. But would you mind sharing with me the details of your deck repair. Where on the deck, what shop is doing the work, what costs, are you painting the whole deck etc. I'm looking at the same repair in the next several years and would like to gather some information.
You can email me direct at <A href="mailto:cphippen@utilitieskingston.com">cphippen@utilitieskingston.com</A> if you like
Chris Phippen
Tal,
Sorry this is off topic a bit. But would you mind sharing with me the details of your deck repair. Where on the deck, what shop is doing the work, what costs, are you painting the whole deck etc. I'm looking at the same repair in the next several years and would like to gather some information.
You can email me direct at <A href="mailto:cphippen@utilitieskingston.com">cphippen@utilitieskingston.com</A> if you like
Chris Phippen
Well, I'm hoping for some replies to my request, but to answer Chris's questions (we've already been in contact by email), here goes:
Based on the results of a deck survey I had done last fall, Critical Path requires the removal & replacement of balsa core covering most of the foredeck, both side decks, the cabintop, and the cockpit sole. Interestingly, the area around the mast step is still sound & in good condition. I sent the survey to several shops around Ontario (everything from Bristol & Wiggers to a few small mobile operators), & received back quotes ranging from $5K to almost $30K! Several of the quotes were in the $12K to $15K range, a little higher than what we'd anticipated (& could rationally justify spending on this boat!).
We ended up going with a small shop here in Whitby so that I can participate in the reconstruction process (my background's in Project Management). Custom Fibreglass Repairs do only fiberglass repair & refinishing work, so their experience is as good as anywhere & their costs slightly lower. The owner, Lewis Beardsworth, has been excellent to work with (so far!), & I expect the finished product to meet our expectations...
In a nutshell, here's the work to be performed:
<UL>
<LI>
<DIV class=RTE>Remove deck hardware as necessary (just about everything's coming off!).
<LI>
<DIV class=RTE>Cut off most of the top layer of the deck (they cut along the seams where nonskid meets smooth to make finishing easier).
<LI>
<DIV class=RTE>Scoop out all the rotten core (yuk!).
<LI>
<DIV class=RTE>Install new balsa coring & impregnate with epoxy to reduce likelihood of water penetration in the future.
<LI>
<DIV class=RTE>Reglass over the balsa to match up to the (smooth) edges of the original deck.
<LI>
<DIV class=RTE>Fill, sand, & fair until it's all smooth, including sanding all the old nonskid off.
<LI>
<DIV class=RTE>Prime & paint the deck with a 2-part polyurethane (Custom uses a paint called Endura, not quite as strong as Awlgrip, but better than Imron, the 2 most common 2-part poly paints).
<LI>
<DIV class=RTE>Roll on new nonskid.
<LI>
<DIV class=RTE>Re-install old (& new!) hardware.</LI></UL>
<P class=RTE>
<P class=RTE>So, any comments about my #3 genoa tracks? Thanks!!
<P class=RTE>
<P class=RTE>Cheers,
<P class=RTE>Tal ../)../)..
<P class=RTE>Critical Path, C&C 27 #632
<P class=RTE>
I agree with the surveyor that filling the oversized mounting holes with epoxy, redrilling and through-bolting will probably provide the strength you need. As to your liner -- for my genoa tracks, I drilled, filled and redrilled, backing up the nuts with fender washers and covering the holes in the liner with white plexiglass. You are, however, always going to be suspicious of those tracks, so I suggest you heavy it up, if only for your own piece of mind.
As you already are having most of the deck carved up and as you almost certainly will have to have the whole deck painted, why not open the deck in the mounting area, remove the balsa core and drop in a piece of alloy strip that's been drilled and tapped to accept the #3 track? Alternatively, you could glass in the strip, then drill and tap after glassing. Positioning the strip correctly would be fiddly, but then you'd have a super-strong mounting point with a solid glass surround and since the whole thing is done from outside, no holes in your liner.
David Weatherston
"Towser", Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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