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There are a number of postings on the Forum that address replacing or re-bedding the handrails. These postings include:
Looking for a Deck Hand Rail <a href="toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=2&tid=347">http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=2&tid=347</a>
Handrail attachment <a href="toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=2&tid=1156">http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=2&tid=1156
</a>Deck fitting bedding material <a href="toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=2&tid=2431">http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=2&tid=2431
</a>(Tip: Use the search function at http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/toast.asp?sub=showsearch&action=posts to search for specific topic.)
But none of the postings address the issue of simply tightening the forward portion of the handrail. On our late model Mark III (#894), the forward three fasteners of the handrail are accessed through small plugs in the liner, in the area above the head and hanging locker. (Note that the handrail location, and the spacing between fasteners, vary significantly across the fleet.) When I removed these plugs, there were 3/8" nuts on which I could place a nut driver, but I could only tighten them a little before the bolt starting spinning. Has anyone else encountered this problem, and found a solution, short of removing both the internal and external handrails? Presumably the head of these forward bolts is buried under the teak plug on the exterior side of the handrail.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu
C&C 27 Mk III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club
www.nsc.ca/nsc_racing/cc27/cc27.htm</a>
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Hugh Morrin
Blue Zulu, C&C 27 Mk III, #894
Nepean Sailing Club, www.nsc.ca/cc27
President and back-up webmaster, C&C 27 Association
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Your lucky - I have 2" screws and washers. I removed the screws, drilled an oversized hole, then filled both holes, deck and handrail with epoxy. Pre-drilled for the screw, layed down a beddding of blackwaterproof guck and tightend down. Now the downside to this is that before I did it the handrail was separated from the deck about 1/8" at the most forward part. Now it is 1/16", it just wouldn't tightend down to deck level. The upside is, there is no more leaking or core getting rotten.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
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If the heads of the machine screws are buried under plugs, can you not draw the plugs? Taking the plug out bit by bit with a really sharp, narrow chisel creates the least risk of damaging the surrounding wood, in my experience.) Many marine stores sell replacement plugs or you can make your own if you have some teak, a plug cutter and access to a drill press (don't try with a hand-held drill).
Also, if the forward ones are loose, I'd be very suspicious of the others and their potential for allowing water into the balsa core - handrails do seem to be the main point of entry. A date with someone who knows how to read a moisture meter might be in order, both for the areas around the loose bolts and the ones that have given no apparent trouble.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Last edited by (2008-06-03 12:57:22)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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From my own experience, you have no choice but to take out the plugs, tighten the screws and then replace the plugs. Having now done dozens of plugs, I recommend drilling the plug out with a 3/8-inch Forstner bit (these are special bits for drilling flat-bottomed holes). If you carefully centre the drill on the plug, you will be left with a clean hole which will easily accept a replacement plug.
I am currently engaged in a project which involves epoxying the nuts in place inside my outer grabrails, then plugging the holes and coating the outer grabrails with 3 coats of West epoxy, covered with 2 or 3 coats of Cetol Natural Teak. According to the West Epoxy web site, this should provide the optimum, longest-wearing surface for the exterior teak. By epoxying the nuts in place with Marine-tex, I hope to be able to simply tighten the screws from the inside to deal with any looseness. Ultimately, the hoped-for goal is to be able to remove and rebed the grabrails simply by unscrewing from the inside, never having to drill the plugs out again. I'll let the forum know how this works out in the long run, both the epoxied nuts and the West epoxy coatings.
Marcus
S/V Carriden, Mk III, Hull #847
Marcus Opitz,
Formerly from Carriden, Mk III, Hull #847,
now skippering "Everdina," a 1975 Ontario 32
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