This Forum is supported by C&C 27 owners like you whose membership in the C&C 27 Association makes possible this Forum and the accompanying site. Thank you, members, for your continuing commitment.
You are not logged in.
Pages: 1
The life lines were getting kind of gritty from whatever. I tried cleaning them but they were too far gone to come back. New vinyl covered life lines are expensive ($100s). A better solution is to buy over sized Davis Stay covers. About $16 worth recovered to the top life lines and gave a thicker life line that is easier on the hands. The lowers were not that bad but I'll do the same when the time comes. Another more expensive trick would be to use white heat shrink (about $50).
John Dallas
Weather or Not (aka: "WON")
Nice. However, before making any cosmetic improvement to lifelines, make sure they are physically sound. Often you'll find broken strands at terminals or at stanchions, and there's nothing as unsafe as a faulty safety device. Stay covers are also good protection against sheets and guys sawing through your lifeline's plastic portion - when you notice a gouge, just replace the stay cover (thanks, Yogi Bear). - Admin
Last edited by (2009-01-26 03:02:45)
John Dallas
Weather or Not (aka: "WON")
<a href="mailto:jedlls@sympatico.ca"></a>
Offline
In addition to Admin's comments. Some areas prevent the use of PVC covered lifelines for replacements and for the sole purpose of safety restrict the owners to bare Stainless steel. (so that any chafing etc... is immediately visible) In addition, I use 1/8 in. grey AMSTEEL, on my lowers (stronger than steel, floats, and will not absorb water).
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
Offline
The requirement for bare stainless steel wire in lifelines doesn't just make chafe visible, it markedly increases the strength of the lifeline. If the wire inside a 1/4" coated lifeline is 1/8", the nominal strength is 1,760 lb. By switching to 1/4" s/s wire, you bulk up your strength to 6,400 lb, an increase of better than 3 1/2 times the coated wire.
That's far more than is necessary for the type of service to which we put our boats, but if I were equipping or refitting a boat for sailing offshore, I'd probably go to uncoated wire.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Last edited by (2009-01-28 02:03:40)
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Offline
I agree with David. A few years ago I was in a delivery crew on a boat that was not old but had been well used. We noticed the lifeline plastic coating was peeling a bit so started fiddling with it. It opened readily and exposed frayed strands. Convinced me to go with bare wire for this refit. Some of the ocean races now require bare lifeline wire. Important of course to keep an eye out for pickies that could tear skin, which a big advantage of the coated wire.
---------
"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
---------------------
1974 Mark II C&C 27
Offline
My understanding of the move away from vinyl-coated lifelines is that it has less to do with the inherent strength of different diameters of line and more to do with the potential for crevice corrosion. For those to whom this term is new, crevice corrosion refers to the tendency for stainless to corrode in covered, or closed-in, areas where moisture is held against the metal for prolonged periods. Once the vinyl covering cracks from UV exposure, water will penetrate the cracks and begin the process, greatly weakening a line which, as David has already pointed out, is not that thick to begin with. Add in the potential for hiding the frayed strands and you begin to appreciate the potential hidden dangers.
Incidentally, the potential for crevice corrosion is one reason that I do NOT put cable covers on my shrouds anymore. Have you ever peeled one off to find all of that dirt and algae collecting under there? Turnbuckle boots are OK because they are loose-fitting and allow the covered fittings to dry out, as well as protecting the sails.
Marcus from Carriden
Mk III, Hull #847
Oakville, Ontario
[I wouldn't worry too much about crevice corrosion in your terminals (I assume that's the main concern, not the wire) on the lakes. On the Wikipedia page linked above, there's a further link on corrosion in stainless that emphasizes the role of sodium in salt water in pitting of the metal. For those for whom salt water is a reality, Don Street (of Iolaire fame) suggested putting anhydrous lanolin around the tops of terminals to keep salt water out (but don't ask me where to get it). Also - and this is from memory, always fallible - one of the conditions for crevice corrosion is a corrosive liquid that has been there long enough to become concentrated and de-oxygenated. A little splashing, a little rain and your problem is gone. - Admin
A valid point David and I do not worry overmuch about crevice corrosion here on the lakes, which is why I still have vinyl-covered lifelines, but this marvellous forum has a world-wide audience. I am not convinced about relying on fresh rain to wash out old, de-oxygenated moisture. I suspect that moisture would only penetrate in the first place when the cracks are new and the core is dry. Once there is existing moisture buried under the vinyl, I would not expect that fresh rain or spray would easily flush it out again, as so much of the original penetration would be based on a form of capillary action drawing the moisture into a currently dry area. - Marcus
Last edited by (2009-01-29 09:29:12)
Marcus Opitz,
Formerly from Carriden, Mk III, Hull #847,
now skippering "Everdina," a 1975 Ontario 32
Offline
We are in salt here and I worry about stainless crevice corrosion in SS parts at welds, fitting joints and supports for SS tanks. It is my understanding too that standing water + low oxygen are the problem, but I simplify that to any standing water. My rule of thumb here is no SS underwater, including fittings on deck or in the bilge. Design is the first step, and then I thnk Lanacote (lanolin), Tef-Gel or Duralac maybe can help keep out water out of joints that don't wiggle, in addition to preventing corrosion between SS and aluminum. Joints with lots of wiggle should, as Dave suggests, prevent standing water from standing if it has a path to run out, be flushed by rain and dry in the sun. So, no vinyl on SS lifelines or standing rigging for me. And check the hose clamps on the stuffing box.
---------
"New" 1974 C&C 27 Mk II undergoing refit
---------------------
1974 Mark II C&C 27
Offline
Pages: 1