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I've seen three locations for batteries in various 27s I've looked at. One has the two batteries essentially stacked one atop the other to port between the front of the engine and the icebox; a second has them side-by-side under the aft setee; the third has them on a shelf in the cockpit locker. I'd appreciate feeback on which setup predominates and what advantages/disadvantages there are to each, notably the first and second options. Thanks.
Ken Pole, Santiva (Mark III), Ottawa
Beside engine:
Pro: short run for battery cables; easy to get at; close to longitudinal centreline; relatively close to centre fore-and-aft; appropriate use for space that sometimes gets grubby from belt dust, fumes, etc.
Con: rather close to engine and batteries don't like being hot; presence restricts access to carb & fuel pump of A4; take up space accessible from interior of the boat that could be used for things that don't mind getting a bit grubby or that can be enclosed.
A reasonable compromise choice.
Aft settee:
Pro: no engine heat; close to longitudinal centreline; quite close to centre fore-and-aft; relatively easy to get at.
Con: take up prime interior storage space; very long run for cables unless you run them through the bilge (extremely bad idea).
The best racing choice.
Shelf in port cockpit locker:
Pro: short run for battery cables; easy to get at; appropriate use for space (and you can still pile things on top of the boxes).
Con: rather close to engine heat but a relatively well ventilated space; far from longitudinal centreline; far from centre fore-and-aft.
The best cruising choice.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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Thanks, David. You are a gold-mine of sound advice and good ideas! I think I'm going to opt for the settee location and run cables, sized to reflect the additional distance, through the space below the icebox, probably through a conduit which will ensure they remain dry. I also plan to install removable partitions between the engine space and the former battery site as well as, to starboard, the area under the sink. I've pulled out much of the cabinetry/joinery already with a view to doing a general rebuild this winter, including a complete rewriting with new AC and DC panels and a Tecnomin charger. (I also must follow through on my commitment to Bob Wilson to send a cheque for association membership!) We'll doubtless chat again. Cheers.
Excellent infromation, David, thanks.
The batteries in this boat are in the "beside engine" location, and I decided to leave them there. I need to come up with a better battery box solution. Currently, they are in standard plastic boxes that take up too much space, make cable attachment awkward, and require disassembly with tools to check the lower battery, since the lid does not come off without removing the top battery's shelf: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/penguinfun/3375424534/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/penguinfun/3375424534/</a>. I am thinking of building custom plywood/epoxy boxes using the guidelines in Calder's and Wing's books. Does anyone have suggestions for the design? Thanks.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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Have you considered leaving the lower battery where it is and relocating the lighter of the two to a shelf aft of the bulkhead? From a weight perspective, it's not ideal, but it is convenient and you might not have to buy new cables.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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I have same configuration in 1975 model, and can slide battery box lid off using different #27 battery box. I also cut off one battery box handle so the box snugs against the walls better. It looks like you have original battery boxes. If you want to keep existing battery boxes, you might try longer cables for the lower battery, so you can take lower box out of shelf still connected.
It also looks like your top battery has original 1970's strap; it is probably time to replace it or to at least reinforce the stitching that holds the buckle on. The poly should last but the stiching is susceptible to acid, and can give out. While you are at it, consider re-inforcing the fitting that holds the strap to the boat.
On a nice windy day, heeling 50 degrees to starboard, we smelled "bar-b-que" smells, then realised it was too strong for shore-based smells. Opened the cockpit locker to find smoke. Dowsed sails and opened the engine compartment, and POOF flames broke out. Battery strap had pulled screws out of shelf and broken, battery tipped over, grounded on engine, spilled acid into flame arrestor, and was on fire. Of course, with acid smoke filling the cabin, I couldn't tell this then. We emptied two fire extinguishers and it went out, before the gas got involved. Lessons:
-have at least two fire extinguishers (bigger one in head)
-don't put pin in forward hatch from outside after putting sails in - it blocks the escape
-turn off the gas when sailing
-double up fittings that hold battery straps; bolt through the top one & use metal.
-Don't sail without a battery box; shorting the battery terminals could happen with a loose tool in the battery compartment
-If you have gas filter, imagine what a loose battery could do to it and protect it accordingly
-electrically insulate the battery terminals
-Have a crank to manually start the engine despite a dead battery
Protect against a knock-down. I have subsequently had knock-downs and batteries held fast
Serendipity
Last edited by (2009-05-18 07:37:29)
Serendipity
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All good thoughts. What I had ended up doing was trimming the aft end of the lower box cover so I could remove it with the battery in place. It is easy now to reach in and release the battery cables, then slide the lower battery out. I also replaced the screwed-in plastic strap attachment points with a stainless-steel Wichard bolt-on model, and replaced the straps with a more skookum type. I also reinforced the battery shelves.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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Have you or could you snap a picture of your, "stainless-steel Wichard bolt-on model" Cheers, Dean.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/penguinfun/3543665735/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/penguinfun/3543665735/</a>
Wichard calls the product "webbing eye strap".
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
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Thanks, I'll make the change, that plastic one shown is exactly what I have. (soon to be replaced)
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
North Sydney, N.S.
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Ahhh, memories.
With my 22 footer I learned about straps while trailering to a lake for a weeks vacation. I hit a large rift in the road that caused the entire boat and trailer to take flight ejecting all loose contents inside the cabin to the floor. After launching I did not check the cockpit lockers (always thoroughly check these spaces after launch for leaks) where the single deep cycle was stored. It's strap had failed and the battery fell over which vented acid into the water tight locker where many of the rush packed goodies were. I got lucky and our only casualties were a couple pair of shorts, some nylon ratchet straps and my hands from soaking up the spill. My spinnaker was high and dry and my friends $600 North Face sleeping bag was on top of that. A damn fine lesson. Fortunately we had a spare battery along and the spilled one still provided enough juice to run the cabin's fan on those +30c nights.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
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