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Hi;
I'm the proud new owner of a 76 C&C27. Being rather new to sailing (only J-24s and Solings at the sailing centers) I have never used a roller furling. Mine has one and from the discussions, I gather it just rolls the Genoa in and out depending on how much of it you would like to use. Is this basically correct, and can anyone point me to a page about this or describe the procedure. The reason I don't just go play with it is that the prior owner did not supply any sail forward of the mast (I suspect he sold it for good money) and I would rather not pay $2,000 for a sail, I don't know how to put on. Thanks.
Horace
1976 MK III
Middletown (Newport), RI
"When using a roller-furling system, you generally sail on a reach to unroll the jib. This allows the sail to unroll without flailing against the mast and shrouds. As mentioned before, it's best to control the line from a winch rather than let it fly. If you don't use a winch, when the jib is about half unrolled in a fresh breeze you won't be able to hold that line, and if you just let it fly, the line can become tangled in a turning block or twist and become jammed around the furling drum, making it very difficult to rewind.
To furl the jib, it's necessary to luff it completely. Free the sheet and head the boat up to reduce speed and heel angle, but don't flog the sail against the shrouds. This hurts the sail and increases friction, making the sail more difficult to furl.
If the genoa furling line is hard to pull, do not put it on a winch. First check that the genoa halyard is really tight. To furl well, the luff of the job needs to be stretched taut, or the furling mechanism won't work well. Excessive headstay sag creates the same problem. Obviously, turning a rod that's curved takes more force than turning a straight one. Extra backstay tension may help. If there's still resistance, check that the upper furling fitting turns freely. Sometimes another halyard gets wound up in it. Winching can break something. If everything seems clear, but it's still hard to pull the furling line, head downwind and blanket the jib behind the main. Only after you've exhausted other options should you use the winch to furl the genoa. If the jib won't furl at all, something must be broken and the headsail should be lowered to the deck.
After the sail is completely rolled up, roll a couple of extra turns for good measure. Wrapping the jib sheets around the outside of the sail locks the furl in place. There's less chance for the wind to catch some of the sail and unfurl it."
Reprinted from "Steve Colgate on Sailing" by Steve Colgate:
Adding to the above, genoa shape, like most sail shapes, contain a certain amount of depth or curve as you travel from luff to leech. Only unfurling the sail half way, for example, will put the luff in the middle of that curve and a) provide very loose luff tension, and b) add wear and tear on one half of the sail giving it an awkward shape when fully extended. That said, many owners do exactly as you outlined in your question, even racing that way and doing fairly well, so it's a matter of opinion and, perhaps, funds.
A bit more on the actual procedure: The jib sheet is used to unfurl the genoa. Pulling the sheet in while, as suggested, on a reach, unfurls the genoa easily. There is a line that runs (usually from the cockpit) to the base of the forstay. This must be released to unfurl. To furl the sail, that same line is pulled, causing the roller-furling forestay to roll and wind the jib back up. This could be done with a little tension on the jib sheet to minimize flogging the sail. Some folks apparently prefer to completely release the jib sheet and, again, it's probably a matter of opinion. A few extra wraps to keep the sail in place when done furling and you're golden.
A note if you're trying to save money on sails: If you're planning on cruising, regular cut genoas can be easily modified by a sail maker to fit a furler system and there are many sailors that trade their race sails after a season or two so there's a source to think about. Nor do the sail necessarily need to be from a C&C 27 if you're going to the sail maker for an alteration anyway.
Gord.
Thanks. Between this and talking to a few others, I think I've got the general idea. Now all I have to do is write the check and wait for spring. Thanks.
Horace
Take the quotation from Steve Colgate with a grain of salt. On our boat, we ease the backstay and halyard tension before furling. This is just as well, as it's not a good idea to go away and leave your furled genoa with a lot of tension on the luff, and we'd probably forget otherwise.
Our furling line runs forward through Schaefer blocks that fit around the stanchions, which keep the deck clear. I recommend them. We have a ratchet block on the stern rail to turn the furling line back to a cam cleat on the cockpit coaming. The ratchet block is nice for easing the sail out and for taking a breather when furling. We try to keep some tension on the sheets when furling so the sail rolls evenly and smoothly. We also put a sail tie around the sail when leaving the boat – a real belt-&-braces precaution, but I once saw a sail flog itself to pieces in a matter of minutes when a storm came through.
Gord is quite right about the limitations of sailing with a partly rolled genoa - the shape absolutely stinks and the roll of sail on the headstay makes for a foul entry, but you can roll it in and out in a minute, which is nice when you're sailing shorthanded or racing short legs.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
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