Recommended spare parts
The following constitute a reasonable selection of spares for running repairs.
- Bostik Dri-Cote is
a Teflon-like lubricant for cutting tools
that is apparently virtually indistinguishable
from McLube, but about 1/4 the price. Use
it for luff grooves, sail slides, etc.
- bolt, 3/8" x 3 1/2" for
tiller-head
- bulbs for nav lights and interior
lights
- copper washers to seal bleed valves
on a diesel's fuel filters and fuel
pump as they should be replaced every
time they are unseated
- crimp connectors, butt and terminal
type, 12 & 14 gauge wire
- drive belts for alternator, fresh water
cooling pump
- duct tape
- electrical tape
- fuel filters, primary & secondary
- fuses appropriate for engine panel
- fuses appropriate for DC panel (if used)
- gasket compound
- gaskets for water pump and carburetor
- heat-shrink tubing
- hose clamps (selection)
- impeller(s) for engine water pump(s)
- manuals/owner's guide for the engine,
electronics, head and anything else you're carting around
- motor oil
- miscellaneous fasteners
- miscellaneous line
- miscellaneous wire (electrical and seizing)
- needle, sailmaker's palm and whipping
twine
- penetrating oil
- rigging pins & rings
- sail tape
- shackles
- sealant
- spark plugs, points, condenser for Atomic
4
- starter switch for Atomic 4 instrument
panel (prone to failure as they age)
- Teflon-based marine gel lubricant
- WD-40 or in the US only, 3M Spray Penetrant
(Universal sailor's remedy: if it's supposed
to move and it doesn't, WD-40 it; if it
moves and it shouldn't, duct-tape it.)
...And two tool boxes (or Tupperware-style sealable tubs – one to keep your tools in, one to keep
your spares in (plastic ones are inexpensive
and don't rust or scratch surfaces). If
things are rattling around loose, they'll
get dirty or damaged. Ziploc freezer bags
are ideal for things like filters or electrical
parts that you want to keep particularly
clean and dry.
Damage control
A limited selection suitable for coastal/Great Lakes waters.
It's probably just as important to think seriously about dealing with emergencies as it is to have emergency gear. For instance, the cockpit drain hoses on a 27 are internally wire-wound and tough, so they won't split easily, but if they did split and you couldn't close the seacock, you'd have to cut the hose away before you could put a plug in your seacock from inside. How would you do that?
Visualizing a problem and a solution is said to lead to a propensity to act when action is required, which helps avoid situations like this: a C&C 30 sank in Lake Ontario during the late seventies; the people on board nearly died of hypothermia. The owner, an experienced sailor, acknowledged that he panicked and never attempted to locate the source of the leak in the half-hour it took for the boat to sink.
- wooden plugs for each seacock plus a mallet and seizing wire to secure plugs once they are in;
- epoxy-impregnated tape (from plumbing supply houses – will patch a leaking pipe or hose even when wet).
Electrical testing
Most of us trust that our environment is safe, so we blithely tie up at a new club or marina and plug ourselves in, trusting that the place is correctly wired. Usually it is, which is good because even 110V power and water can be a fatal combination.


