C&C 27 Association Forum

This Forum is supported by C&C 27 owners like you whose membership in the C&C 27 Association makes possible this Forum and the accompanying site. Thank you, members, for your continuing commitment.

You are not logged in.

Announcement

if you need to reset your password, you will have to confirm the request clicking the URL in the email that you will receive (Just in case check the spam folder)
If you have any problem, please do not hesitate to contact me

#1 Re: General discussion » Stuck rudder » 2013-10-24 06:06:58

Hi Zach,
I sail in the west end of lake Erie where most owners would pull their boats out of the water for this type of repair. The water here is just too cold and murky to see anything.

That said I think you will have to pull the boat to get a better idea of what's happened to your rudder. Make sure the yard sets it down where you can dig a hole if you need to.

My best guess is that you wore out your bearings on the 4 day trip home. Maybe from the shaft still being a little bent or just lack of lube.
I never pulled a rudder on my C&C 27 but I did help a friend replace the bearings on a Person 26 (1971) the bronze bushings/bearings were replaced with Derin (sp?) its a type of polymer that car makers use for sway bar bushings. On the person the shaft was out of spec so original bushings wouldn't work. A machine shop can cut these on a lathe.

Hope this helps.

#2 Re: General discussion » Stuck rudder » 2013-10-22 13:23:34

Hi Zach,
Reading from you post I'll have to assume a few things.
1) You struck your rudder on some bottom structure to the point you felt you had to pull your boat.
2) you pulled the rudder out yourself and it only took 10 minutes.
3) You determined it was bent and sent it to a shop to have it straighten.
4) you let the marina put it back in, but you weren't there to see them do it?
5) you have no measurements before or after as to how much the shaft was bent or where the bend occurred.
6)The rudder was stiffer than before you pulled it and the marina said something along the lines that "umm sorry we forgot to grease it before putting back in"

Now you tried to get it back out to lube/grease it and it's stuck way more tight than the first time you removed the shaft.

My conclusion assuming the above is mostly correct is that you bent the rudder below the water line and the shop made it worse by trying to straighten it above the water line and the marina that didn't see how easy it came out just jammed it up to send you on your way.

End result? you need a new rudder and shaft. To fix it you will have to cut the rudder shaft and pound the stuck portion out the top.

I really hope I'm wrong and you just forgot to remove something you removed the first time.

I'm curious. was the rudder stiff before or after the bottom strike? or just after the repair?

In my experience in the automotive manufacturing field, bent shafts, spindles, broaches we just toss them on the scrap pile. They can't be straighten to original tolorences. Boat rudders are a different.

Try using a machinists straight edge and feeler gauges to see how straight the shat is. Let us know.

Hope this helps.

#3 Re: General discussion » New member with questions. » 2013-10-22 12:35:02

Hi Bill,
I know nothing about the compact 27 so I'll limit this to what the C&C 27 MKIII has.

Tankage for the 1974 and 1975 MKIII are the same except the fuel tank in 74 was monel steel long round tube shape and in 75 it switched to rectangular shape.
Fuel 20 gallons
water 25 gallons
waste 15 gallons recirculating tank Think airplane style blue flush water coming from the waste tank.
THe rest of the sizes are my best guesses.
V-berth short end about 16 inches length about 6'4" slopes slightly to the read depends on your cushions.
Port side double berth about 6'4"x4' also a 4place table for nav. or eating.
Starboard couch about 20"by 6'6"
Headroom 6" until you pass through to the head then duck because its only about5'7"
Double cockpit hatches with lots of room for 4 bodies if you fold them up :-)A lot less if you add A/C and refrigeration.
Inside the cabin you have counter top storage for 4 place settings behind the stove and a couple bottles. However if you are cooking the lid of the two burner alcohol stove prevents acsess to 2/3s of this space. Get you plates out first.
Below stove is a deep drawer that holds lots of misc. stuff. Below that is a cupboard drawer that holds holds a lot of stuff but it is sloped by the hull.

Under the companion way to the starboard side is the sink it holds about 1 gallon of water in a calm sea. beneath the sink there is a cupboard divided by a shelf to the port of the sink is a countertop 12x30? Beneath that are where the batteries go.

on the port side aft there is a large (25 gal.?) cooler space that is not insulated are far as I can tell. Behind the lid for the cooler there is a space for lots of paper towels, cleaning supplies etc.

Under the port seats you have two (fore and aft) storage areas that will hod at least 2 cases of beer each. but the drain into the bigle so heeled to port with a full bilge the will get soaked with bilge water, keep an eye on your bilge level. Above the table level on the port side check out the black arts on how much space there is.

To starboard the settee has 3 compartments. The center does not drain or undrain the bilge, the fore and aft ends do.

The you come to the head area. To port there is the head with sliding panels above the head, enough space to hold lot of toiletries. Below the sink is a cupboard shaped by the hull contour. To starboard there is a hanging locker that can hold about 6 foul weather suits (light weight) and 6 life preservers.

Forward in the V-berth there are 3 hatches that hold about 10 gallons each below the cushions. There are full length selves on either side. At the tip or prow of the boat there is an open space that you can block off to store 200+ feet of 1/2 anchor line.

Now that all said, I don't think of a MKIII as trailer boat. The weight of an empty boat is about 5600 lbs. add supplies and trailer you might be close to 8,000 lbs.
Raising the mast and tuning it is not a 2 mad 1/2 hour job.
The draft of 4',6" empty could be a problem too.

Hope this helps.

#4 Re: General discussion » starting atomic four issue » 2011-07-12 16:34:29

The problem with the engine is most likely not in the starter switch or starter motor. The most common problem is with the push pull ignition switch. The ignition switch energizes the starter switch. To test this watch the gauges to jump a bit when you pull out the switch. If they do the motor will start normally (if the starter switch is good). If there is no movement from the gauges the starter button will not do anything.

You can use a automotive starter button connected to the starter to turn the engine over but it won't start unless the ignition switch is working and on.

Fair winds y'all
John
PS Moyer marine has a very good service and repair manual.

Board footer

Powered by FluxBB