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Work is done and it turned out easier than I first thought it would be. Here is what I did.
I loosened my shrouds and backstay as much as I could, checking the mast with a small pry bar to make sure it was not sitting tight.
Took off the door and door track.
Then I set up my jacking contraption using the screw jack from my car. I carefully jacked up the bulkhead just enough to take the pressure off the compression post.
I used my vibrating saw and a Japanese cutoff saw to take about 5 inches off the compression post, into very healthy wood.
I had a new piece already made by laminating 3 pieces of white oak ready to be inserted. I added and aluminum shim on the bottom just to make the bottom of the post sit a little further away from the sole.
I mixed up some epoxy and wet out the top of the new piece and the bottom of the post.
Then added thickener to the epoxy and put a healthy amount on the new piece and slid it under the post.
I took some of the pressure off the jack until the epoxy started oozing out of the joint.
Went home and came back the next day and took everything apart and retuned the rigging.
As you can see in the picture I still have to trim the excess epoxy from the joint. There is also picture of what I cut out.
Thanks Dana
I think I can get away with jacking up just 1/2 an inch, and then patching. Maybe not as intimidating as I originally thought.
Chuck
I've taken the boat out of the water with the mast up so I won't be doing anything until the spring.
I will have to put the boat in the water and take it to the mast crane to do my work.
The post sits on a bracket that attaches to the sole and the post. I aim pretty sure it is original, i've owned the boat since 1995. The plastic cover on the post looks like something that would be original.
How sensitive is the jacking procedure, is a hydraulic pump jack OK or should should I use a screw jack that more accurate to the amount of lift.
Chuck Dyck
Talisman
1975 Mark III
I attached this to an older post about this subject.
There was a lot of views but no replies. I was hoping to communicate with someone that has tackled this repair or knows anything about it.
Please help if you can.
I have a 1975 mark III and my compression post seams to be bulging at the bottom.
I was thinking I would cut off the offending bit, 6” or so, and add in a shoe of white oak or similar water resistant wood. I would fix it to the existing post with epoxy and an aluminum collar.
Dows anyone see a problem with this kind of repair?
What is the post made of?
Can I do this with the mast up?
The rail for the sliding door on the head needs to be removed?
Will I run into something unexpected cutting it off in situ?
Chuck
http://www.cc27association.com/f4/img/m … c-post.jpg
I have a 1975 mark III and my compression post seams to be bulging at the bottom.
I was thinking I would cut off the offending bit, 6” or so, and add in a shoe of white oak or similar water resistant wood. I would fix it to the existing post with epoxy and an aluminum collar.
Dows anyone see a problem with this kind of repair?
What is the post made of?
Can I do this with the mast up?
The rail for the sliding door on the head needs to be removed?
Will I run into something unexpected cutting it off in situ?
Chuck
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