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Two things you might look at: route the hose between the transom and pump in a loop that extends high up in the space between the transom and the aft end of the cockpit and replace the rubber on the pump. The diaphragm looked okay on Towser (no visible cracking) but the non-return flaps were unreliable. The rebuild kit from Whale includes all three pieces, and you get a pump that is as good as new for about $60. Re-routing the hose might add a bit of back-pressure, but it's cheap insurance. Un-cheap insurance can be had with top-quality hose. Towser's previous owner had replaced the hose with this Mickey-Mouse white pvc or something, so I got some better-quality material.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Good question. A little Googling produces,
"-Some one part solvent-based Marine paints may not cure on top of cured Fast Cure 4200. It is strongly recommended to test paint of interest for suitability
-Fast Cure 4200 has an elongation much greater than most paints. Most paints will not elongate to this extent before cracking or losing adhesion to the sealant. If the sealant is used in an application where it will elongate or flex to a high degree, it is best not to paint."
3M TS Data Sheet 06560 06564 05260
Here's another option: West System G/Flex flexible epoxy.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Tape around the "valley" that you're filling, then you can smear excess material onto the tape as you smooth the 4200. When you're satisfied, pull away the tape and clean up any little ridge lines with a moistened finger. Much less hassle than endless wiping with paper towels.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
The requirement for bare stainless steel wire in lifelines doesn't just make chafe visible, it markedly increases the strength of the lifeline. If the wire inside a 1/4" coated lifeline is 1/8", the nominal strength is 1,760 lb. By switching to 1/4" s/s wire, you bulk up your strength to 6,400 lb, an increase of better than 3 1/2 times the coated wire.
That's far more than is necessary for the type of service to which we put our boats, but if I were equipping or refitting a boat for sailing offshore, I'd probably go to uncoated wire.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Well, you might pay a bit more, but I think you'd be happy with the quality. They know the boats and they're used to dealing with distant customers.
http://www.gencomarine.com/canvas/index.cfm
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Just to be clear, are you looking for a free-standing bimini, like the one in this photo <http://picasaweb.google.com/luke.breza/CC27ForSale#5293434061045361554> or an extension to a dodger that extends over the whole cockpit (which is what is being discussed in jedlls' post)?
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Old-style alcohol stoves are the spawn of the devil, Scott, and when people swap them out, there's usually a good reason (like, they're leaking alcohol into the space underneath or have developed a random tendency to squirt flaming alcohol at people). A boat broker friend had a customer who paid for her $250k new boat (with propane) from an insurance settlement arising from burns from a pressure alcohol stove - tell your friend to lash out with the bucks for a new one.
A friend bought an Origo 4100CB 2 burner non-pressurized alcohol stove (with cutting board!) She ordered it online from Defender. Theirs was the best price she found. She really likes it and I must say I was impressed with how tractable it was during an overnight race.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Registration is now open with a significant discount until the end of January.
The movement to shift this regatta to another club seems to have run aground, so it's back to NYC again. If you race, you know it's a fun regatta; if you don't race, it's a good opportunity to get your feet wet, because nobody takes it too, too seriously, and there are lots of people like you, who are just in it for a fun weekend.
Join us there!
<div>David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
</div>
Well, that's new to me, but it makes sense as a way to take full advantage of the strength and rigidity of the toe-rail.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
There is no horizontal bolt from the inboard leg to the toerail, but there most certainly is a vertical machine screw from the inboard leg, through the SS plate and through the deck (with appropriate fender washer or backing plate below). This is visible in the photo. The small screw on the outboard side merely holds the stanchion.
You're right that there is a fair bit of work involved, but it will repay itself in additional room on deck and freedom from a common source of leaks into the core and into the accommodation. When filling holes in the deck, bear in mind that polyester will not bond to epoxy. Therefore, hole-filling should be done with polyester putty if you want to replace the gel-coat on deck.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
I'd put the differences down to differences in the relative risk our boats face.
1) you're in hurricane country so your boat can get in trouble without any input from you (the last time we had a really destructive hurricane was in 1954); 2) you're adjacent to the ocean, which means that you have potentially far more opportunities to get your boat in worse trouble than we can on Lake Ontario (I _think_ that's true but perhaps I am underestimating the degree to which idiots underestimate the lakes); and 3) our boats are laid up from around the end of October to around the beginning of April, during which period there is little that can happen to them (fire is the big risk and there have been three or four multi-boat fires in the last 25 years in this area, but those don't constitute big numbers).
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
This is totally based on visuals, but I'd say an A4 moves a lot more water than my 2YM15, and I've just heard from my mechanic friend that he agrees with that assessment. So unless I come up with something else, you'll see me hanging over the stern with a calculator, bucket and stopwatch some time after launch.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Mike, as you've seen yourself in the past, virtually _anything_ is worth the Forum's time. The question is whether it's worth a Forum _member's_ time.
The problem in comparing insurance policies lies in the details. Broadly, they seem to be similar, but the exclusions and definitions are going to be definitive; a true comparison would involve side-by-side comparison of all the details. Cross-border comparisons will be difficult too, because of the difference in the medical situation (my policy provides $5k for medical, which may seem risible to you, but we have national health insurance).
Anyway, I'll discard my usual reticence about talking about money and throw this out - here's mine:
Provider: Aviva / Skipper's Plan
Indemnity: $1 million
Coverage on declared value of vessel: $27,500
Deductible: $1,000
Premium: $290 + Ontario tax
New enhancements: improved protection against damage by an uninsured vessel; increased percentage allowed on personal effects, increased coverage (50%) for equipment stored ashore during layup.
New exclusions/limitations: limitation on trailering radius to 300 mi; wear & tear, gradual deterioration, rust, corrosion, dampness, insects; engine damage caused by freezing unless layup was performed by a certified mechanic; loss or damage, including medical, caused by parasailing or spinnaker flying.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
I don't know for sure about the model, but I suspect that the pump is specific to Yanmar. Japanese manufacturers like to control everything possible (particularly if there's a revenue stream from consumables like impellers) and Yanmar is big enough that it wouldn't be a stretch. I will ask the distributor again when and if I go to the Boat Show, but the national specialist says Yanmar doesn't provide a flow curve for different engine speeds, so I suspect I'm out of luck there. Aqualarm sent their wiring diagram but no recommendation about whether the minimum flow was suitable for a Yanmar 2YM15.
Is 1.5 gpm a slow rate? I don't know much about pumps but I've also sent an enquiry to a club mechanic (and asked his advice on the exhaust temp gauge). Also found an engineering site that suggests that the best way to find out coolant flow is with a measured bucket, calculator and a stopwatch.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Planning a trailer cruise this year? Recently insurance companies broadened the restrictions on trailering to all vessels. If you used to be exempt from the limitation on your radius of travel, you aren't now. Going more than 300 miles from home will cost you extra. Check this year's insurance renewal for more info.
Since the distance was specified in miles (in a country that's officially metric) it probably means some idiot unthinkingly picked the regulation up from the US branch of some Hydra-headed multinational, which further means the new restriction probably applies in the US, too.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
I had the Moyer alarm kit on my A4; highly recommended. My Yanmar came temperature and oil pressure warnings with an alarm. The only problem with those is that, according to most mechanics, by the time you reach the alarm threshold, a lot of the damage is starting to happen. Hence the appeal of the coolant alarm to give you warning of one common source of problems.
Thus far I've had no luck in determining if the minimum detectable flow of this device matches the raw water flow from my engine. The Canadian distributor doesn't know (no flow chart, only a value for maximum possible flow is available) and Yanmar won't say - too many variables). Perhaps I'll wait until I'm back in the water and put a bucket under the stern.
The Canadian distributor suggested an alternative, a temp sensor in the exhaust (sometimes called a pyrometer). If there's no water flow, the exhaust elbow will heat up fast (faster than the engine block) and sound an alarm. That may be an alternative.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Question 1) The only reason for reducing the dimensions that I can think of is reducing the mid-girth slightly to avoid hanging the roach on the backstay. Beyond that, perhaps someone else has an idea.
Question 2) Fully battened mains tend to be a bit flat in light air off the wind. You can counter this by tensioning your battens, but getting the tension exactly right is fiddly. A main with two short tapered battens down below opens up better. I can't see needing two reefs, but you know your local conditions better than I do.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Did you ask them about wiring it in? Following your message, I had a look at Aqualarm's site and found that they <a href="http://aqualarm.net/datasheets/save_your_engine_kit_one_inch_to_one_and_one-half_inch.pdf">sell a kit</a> that includes a compatible buzzer and warning light (nice). My guess is that you'd simply wire one side of the detector to the ignition switch and the other side to the buzzer and/or alarm light, then to your return buss bar, so the detector goes live whenever the ignition is on. A ten-second delay that prevents it from sounding while the engine and impeller are getting up to speed would be nice, but that's probably a bit fussy.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
A recent post by Mike Mathews on HIN's mentions a surveyor's quirky site. In his page on must-have accessories, he mentions raw water flow detectors. If your engine intake sucks up a plastic bag, this lets you know that flow has stopped before your engine has a chance to overheat seriously. I find it appealing a) because Yanmar doesn't make a temperature gauge for my engine - there's only an idiot light and b) my engine once overheated precisely because of this problem and I can't stop peering over the stern to make sure the water is still flowing. Another plus is that it's only C$60.00 - cheap insurance. Find a Canadian or US dealer on Stright-MacKay's web site.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Measurements like this are sometimes described as straight-line distances between perpendiculars erected over the measurement point (though in the case of measuring a boat out of the water it makes sense to drop the perpendicular). Sorry I didn't pick up the confusion earlier.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
That was the reaction of one of our club mechanics when I showed him the picture, but you don't really need one for a Mk I - IV 27 because you can drop a line straight onto the engine, as I described in an earlier post. Also, that device, neat as it is, doesn't solve the balance problem on an A4.
"If you remove the wood cross-piece that supports the front of the engine cover, you have much more room to work. Also, you can lift the thing straight out with crane.
To remove the cross-piece, you will need a #1 or #2 Robertson head screwdriver; a variation of this is apparently sold in the US by Home Despot as a "square drive" screwdriver. There are three or four screws a side and then it just lifts out.
The engine is gearcase-heavy and will bind on the mounting bolts if you try to lift it with the lifting eye alone. Do this: Drop a strop three or four feet from the lifting hook to the hoisting eye on top of the block. Then, from the same hook, drop a block and tackle and make it fast at the rear of the gearcase; the block and tackle should make a slight dog-leg as it passes under the cockpit. With everything disconnected on the engine, tighten the block and tackle until the aft end of the engine rises. It's okay if it binds a little bit on the mounting bolts, but not too much. Raise the hook a bit until the front end of the engine binds a bit. Repeat until the engine is off the mounts and hanging free. Remove."
After removing the engine, I put the block-&-tackle aside exactly as it came off the engine. When re-installing, the tackle therefore was set to the right length so that when the engine swung under the cockpit and over its mounts, it was at the correct angle to descend squarely onto the mounts.
One more thing: if the boat is laid up, as mine was for the winter, the hull will change shape significantly because of the absence of the engine's weight. The mounting bolts moved about one inch closer together between late November and May.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
Oh, don't worry about being thought a sissy. In Canada, we cook food in water that's cooler than what you sail in (semi-stewed beaver is a particular delicacy). The wetsuit is obviously to keep from becoming overheated.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
The only issues in replacing a prop are getting the shaft key oriented correctly and ensuring that the key is properly positioned within the prop when the prop is slid onto the shaft. Most keys are not square in cross-section - sometimes this is obvious and sometimes not and being underwater may make this tricky to determine. Also, the key will try to slide forward as the prop is slid on; be sure it stays within the prop hub. You will probably want to put some grease on the hub or shaft; make sure it's a thin film or it will interfere with snugging up the nut. Snug the nut on firmly; don't reef it on super-tight. Don't forget the cotter pin in the nut.
Good luck with it.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV
See the Links & Contacts page for Klacko Spars and South Shore Yachts. Phone, don't e-mail.
David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV