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Dear sailors,
I am facing a dilemma concerning my head sail.
I own a C&C 27 Mark II that has hank on sails that need to be changed (originals sails: 170%, 150% and 120%). Furthermore, I will need to change the standing rigging.
For a replacement I have few options and would appreciate your experiences and inputs.
I race on the Canadian West Coast in PHRF club racing in fall, winter and spring and in the summer I cruise with the family. So, I am asking the boat to be multi-function.
Option 1: purchase new head sails with hank on. Say 155%, 100% and a storm jib. Simple design. Just slower for sail change.
Option 2: same as above but with a twin blade system; faster to change sail and better profile for racing.
Option 3: roller furling with a specific reefing sail (with stretchy material that keeps the sail in shape while reefed)
I am old school and believe in simplicity and hanks on jibs are giving me a good sense of confidence. With strong winds (25 knts and up, I would think that a hank on jib would be better than a rolled up jib on a roller furling). Also, I am afraid to loose efficiency for racing with a roller furling. Then again, roller furling are not new technology and they are everywhere in marinas, so they must be good.
Anyone of you is racing and cruising? What option did you choose?
Thanks a lot for your inputs.
Stéphane; Mystery C&C27 Mark II
Victoria BC
Hi,
Is the spinnaker still for sale?
Stéphane
Hi,
I have a Mark II and a small spinnaker. Looking for a full size. Is the spinanker still for sale?
Stéphane
Would anyone know where to find the polar diagram of the Mark II?
Useful tool when racing.
Thanks,
Stéphane
Mystery, in Sidney BC, C&C27 Mark II Hull 59
Hi,
Would anyone have information on how to tune the standing rigging on C&C 27, for racing? I have a Mark II . The backstay has an adjustable tensionner and I can play with this. As for the shrouds (upper and lower), any advice on their relative tension?
Stéphane
Mystery, C&C 27 MarkII
[Here's a <a href="../../fixes/tuning.html">starting point</a> in Black Arts. - Admin]
Hi Marcus,
This is great idea. In fact I sailed (in France) with a similar galey (but with butane and two stoves) and it is practical while underway.
I live on the west coast close to Victoria BC on Vancouver Island. Lots of cruising in the Gulf Islands (very protected). In future, I wish to explore the whole Vancouver Island and go around it, which means open ocean. Also, I am doing club racing, and I wish to equip the boat for long overnight races.
Thankds for your advice,
Stéphane
Mystery MarkII
Currently, I have the old propane stove that I disconnected because not safe. I use a Butane 1 ring stove (portable) and store the cartridges in a bag outside. That is pefect for cooking in the harbour for now.
Has anyone got some experience with a gimballed alchol stove? I think that the gimballed stove is very useful for cooking while sailing.
Stéphane
Mystery Mk II
I talked to the sail maker and he is a big advocate of four full battens: keeps the sail in shape, fast and does not wear out the fabric so much. I will go for that, as most of the boats here in the club.
Yes, Chuck, I confirm with you that for making a code 5 (maximum size for racing without handicap) the sail will have a bit of a roach and touch the back stay (2 inches). According to the sail maker's experience it is really worth it although below 5 knots of wind the main has to be helped for tacking (let go the main sheet and then in). Higher than 5 knts the sail tacks with no help.
Stéphane
Mystery C&C27 Mrk II, Sidney, BC
On my Farymann diesel engine, I had an alarm installed. 1) oil pressure and 2) engine temp. In order to avoid the problem of not seeing the alarm light I had an audible alarm (very loud!) installed which I think is a good solution.
Stéphane
Mystery, C&C27 Mark II 1972
Thank you David for the answers. The sailmaker will check the boat's dimensions to avoid the backstay touching the sail.
I had to use the reef #1 with 20-25 knts and I like to have one more level in case the wind goes up.
I will keep in mind your comments on the full length battens: seem to agree with my observations of racing C&Cs pictures.
Stéphane
I have a Mark II C&C27 with which I do family cruising and club racing off the coast of british Columbia (Sidney, BC). I have started to race on PHRF (yes, not enough C&C 27 to form a fleet...) and after having taken the dimensions of my main sail (original, 1972), I realized that it is quite smaller than the maximum dimensions listed in the C&C27 web site.
Dimensions of my main sail (in feet) are:
HLB=0.33, E=8.83, MGU=3, MGM=5.5, MP=28.1
Maximum dimensions listed on the web site are (code 5 sail):
HLB=0.5, E=9.5, MGU=3.97, MGM=6.59, MP=29
That makes my main sail a code 3.
I talked to a sailmaker and he would custom make a Code 5 (maxiumum dimensions set in the web site) with a loose foot, 4 full battens and 2 reefs.
Here are my questions:
1) Would anyone know why my boat that used to be race is equipped with such a small main sail? In other words, would the boat handling be affected with the larger main (I sail with 170%, 150% and 120% genoas)? I know that in light air, I should get better performance. Is anyone experienced with sailing (racing and cruising) a Mark II with a code 5 main sail?
2) Any reason why I should not go with a full batten main sail? Is there any disadvantage over the traditional shirt battens? I did not notice a lot of fully battens mains on C&C27 club racing pictures.
Thanks for your help,
Stéphane
Mystery, C&C27 MarkII, 1972, Hull 59
Hi Greg,
That is very nice of you! My e-mail adress is stephane.claude@nrc.ca
Stéphane
Mystery, Mark II, Hull 59
Victoria/Sidney BC
=3>Hi all,
=3>Good news, I found the problem and fixed it. While out for a sail yesterday under 10-15 knts for wind I was looking for the leak through the rudder shaft as recommended by Marcus Opitz. I saw under the cockpit locker water coming out of the propane tank box vent hose. Was like a garden hose! While healing over, the end (attached to the box) of pipe was below the water line and because it was loose water was coming in the boat… not too clever.
=3>The propane system was decommissioned months ago because not to standard. I will use a portable butane stove for my short cruises in the Vancouver Island Gulf Islands. So, no need for a full kitchen.
=3>The drain pipe is now closed and above the water line and the boat dry and I will leave the keel boats as they are for now. What a relief!
=3>Thank you all for your inputs.
=3>Stéphane,
Mystery, Mrk II #59, Victoria, BC.
Thank you, when running hard I will look at the rudder shaft for water. I've just bought the boat so I don't know when the shaft was re-packed.
Stéphane
Mystery Mrk II, Victoria, BC
Well thank you for sharing your experience. I was actually wondering if I should have the boat out of the water (mild winter here in BC) before doing up the bolts.
Stéphane
Mystery, MrkII, Victoria BC
I would be very interested in in detailled drawing of the Mark I/II hull.
Stéphane
Mystery C&C Mrk II, Victoria BC
>Hi Chris,
I found this webside on C&C. It has some torque values:
<A href="http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm">http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm</A>
Stéphane
>Marcus,
All the engine and rudder area looked dry but when I sail hard again I will look at the rudder shaft for some possible leak. Thanks for the tip.
Stéphane
Mystery, Victoria, BC
C&C27 Mk II
>Thank you David. I will look up the torque value for the bolts (2 different sizes).
Stéphane
Mystery, Victoria, BC
C&C27 MkII