C&C 27 Association Forum

If you want to do the high-tech varnish route, coat the stripped teak with West epoxy, then varnish (for UV protection of the varnish). I've not tried it on Towser, but it's supposed to be iron-clad. The caveat is that the wood must be well bedded so moisture can't enter from un-epoxied areas.

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV

PS - Actually, I have tried varnish-over-epoxy, but only on a dinghy that's kept in a boathouse, so I don't have any sense of the way it stands up to continued exposure. The finish quality is excellent.

Not to sound like too much of a worry-wart and typically over-insured Canadian, but you might want to check with your insurance agent about using portable propane or butane stoves and where you can legitimately stow the gas bottles. Be a nuisance to have the old tub blow up, then find out you're not covered.

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV

Towser had a kerosene stove. As advertised, it was hotter and safer, but if you got your pre-heat timing wrong, you'd get a cloud of black soot all over the galley. Now we have propane - an absurdly expensive proposition but much less hassle.

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV

Roger -

Hier j'ai demandé au chef des mécaniciens du club comment décider entre le Volvo et le Yanmar. Parlant surtout de leur moteurs de 3 cylindres, il m'a assuré que le Yanmar est plus silencieux mais le Volvo est moins vibreux. La différence entre les deux, de meme que la différence entre leur moteurs de 3 et de 2 cylindres, ne signfit qu'un peu.

Mon nouveau Yanmar 2YM15, modèle tout neuf l'année dernière, a 2 cylindres. Nous le trouvons plus bruyant et vibreux que notre ancien Atomic 4, mais a l'addition de materiaux d'amélioration de bruit (je ne connais pas le mot juste pour céla - acheté à Genco à Toronto - espèce de mousse assez lourde, couverte de papier de aluminium), nous nous habituons au bruit qui reste.

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV

My Mark IV has a straight-line intake, no scoop, no external strainer. Getting enough water into the system has never been an issue. Do consider fitting a strainer in the intake line, though.

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV

The question you have to ask yourself is, do you want vengeance - or do you want the keel back in a reasonable period of time? Making restitution right now is going to cost the thief four or five thousand dollars, minimum, which is not a bad punishment altogether, plus it gets our boy his keel back toot sweet. Plus there's the certainty aspect. A trial can go either way:

Trial judge (18 months from now): "He stole a what?"

Prosecuting attorney: "A keel, m'lud."

Trial judge: "That's a dirty great lump of lead sort of thingy that hangs on the bottom of a boat, isn't it? And it was just lying on the ground? Down in the docks?"

Prosecuting attorney: "Yes, m'lud."

Trial judge:  "Sounds more like a public nuisance than private property. Sort of sounds like he was doing everyone a favour by removing it."

Defence attorney: "M'lud, my client happened upon this dirty great lump of lead lying about in a public place, and seeing his duty to remove a threat to the environment that has been implicated in health issues among minorities in this great nation of ours, took it upon himself, at great labour and expense, to remove this dire and present threat to a place of safety."

Trial judge (suddenly remembering proximity of election date):  "I'm all for protecting the health of minority children in this great nation of ours. The thanks of the court are extended to the defendant. On the other hand, this man over here left a dirty great lump of hazardous material lying around where minority children would be harmed by it? Take him out and shoot him."

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV

http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/50/p/docs/pt/7/product.asp

Any of these help?

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV

I wouldn't want to get too excited about the possibility of breaking the boom. According to the sailplan I have for a Mk III, the point of attachment on the boom lies 92% of the way aft along the boom's length to the mainsail clew. The remaining eight percent is not a lot of length to build up a destructive leverage. I appreciate that a Mk I's E is six inches longer, but the sail is significantly smaller, so the total load is probably equal if not less.

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV

>I checked out another C&C 27 which the owner told me was actually a Hinterhoeller (although he called it a C&C in the ad)

He called it a C&C 27 because it is. Yachts with pedigrees (as opposed to rubbishy boats and a few built by companies with internal "design teams" such as Sabre and Tartan) are generally referred to by the name of their designers, not the builder. Moreover, by the time the 27 was designed, the people who would become C&C had agreed to become one company. So, yes, some boats were built by the legal entity Hinterhoeller, but that entity was already in the process of becoming the volume division of C&C Yachts. This is made quite clear in the company history published on our site.

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV

I can't give you the precise dimensional info you want because I'm no longer near this particular trailer, but I had a good look at it because the builder seemed to have done such a good job. Plus, the trailer had gone to Florida from Toronto a couple of times, which seems a reasonably demanding test.

The keel was directly over the dual axles. The support plate was a steel U with the aft end blocked off. A wood wedge accommodated the slope of the keel. The hitch was perhaps six inches to a foot in front of the bow. The pads were at the very front of the keel, about a foot to eighteen inches aft of it and midway between the forward and aft pads.

Given the shape of the keel, I'd have been inclined to put a pad under the very forward end of the keel (as in the Marine Cradle Shop standard cradle or the photos of sailboat trailers at http://www.cradleridetrailers.com/), but it's possible that the owner had a temporary post that lived in that spot when the boat was on the road.

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV

I appreciate that you've checked the existing hoses, but you say that this effect takes hours, so we're not talking about leaks that produce drops but pin-hole weepage. Or - and you'll never find this - you've got a leak on your intake line that only operates as an air-entry leak, not as a dripping-water leak. If you've got an air entry into your intake hose, the water in the hose will slowly drain overboard, and that water represents a far greater volume to replace than could ever leak out of the pump body without being obvious. Replacing that volume is hard work for the pump, and that's probably why you have to rev the engine.

My inclination therefore would be to replace the intake line and all the hose clamps, making sure to use the right size hose and clamp in every case (obviously oversize hoses aren't going to work properly, but oversize clamps don't seal properly either), with doubled clamps if the barb is long enough, snug but not reefed down hard. Also, replace the pump gasket, because air could be getting into the suction side of the pump that way. Consider also remounting the hose barbs on the pump body with a little pipe dope (not Teflon tape).

Another suggestion - I've never had a problem with a dry intake, despite having had a pump configuration on my previous engine that's prone to draining back out through the intake. I attribute that to having a water trap in line. I can only assume that these break the siphon, so my intake line never drained significantly. So, my second suggestion is to get a water trap; given the amount of crud I regularly fish out of mine, I think they're a good idea anyway.

David Weatherston
Towser, Toronto
C&C 27 Mk IV