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If the impeller goes around smoothly and is just missing a part of one blade then simply bond on a piece of acrylic or lexan, shape it to match the other blades and reinstall the paddle wheel into the holder. There is no magic other than the impeller has small magnets in the base of each blade that count the revs, and besides all of that, they are not very accurate.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
How do I like my 27 in the ocean, well I have never sailed it anywhere else. I feel that the strong point of the 27 is that it
can handle a wide range of conditions without compromise.
I have sailed alone in 55 knots and yet in other conditons when racing, beaten bigger boats scratch.
Best of luck getting Obsession home.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
As you are passing by the Portsmouth NH area and may need a mooring for the night or two, contact me. Pepperill Cove in Kittery Point is well protected, there is a store and restaurant. The next leg from PC to Portland is a long slog with few places to stop easily, generally a long day. After that you have great places to stop in before crossing the Bay of Fundy.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
I have been preaching dual navigation for years after being scared big time while racing. The electronic devices are very good to a limit, and only really should be used as a quick reference and not as an exclusive source.
I have updated all my charts and checked them against others who do the same thing so that I feel somewhat comfortable. Besides, a three position fix really tells you where you are.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
I have a 1975 A4 that is used constantly during the sailing season and I would not trade it for a diesel. Having said that, I have put time, energy and upgrades into making it a clean reliable engine.
If you are somewhat mechaincally inclined, the normal maintainence is a piece of cake, other things mayt take a bot more understanding.
Remember, you are pushing a light boat and you do not need to spend a lot of money for a diesel etc. I have nothing against diesel engines, but I know several people who have a "diesel from hell"
I would go with a good rebuilt or rebuild yours, but makje sure that you upgrade to a fresh water cooling system and electroninc ignition, then the troubles for the most part go away.
David
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
Real teak is expensive, but remember there is not a lot of it on the 27. An alternative to teak is a wood called Iroko. It is a bit more porus, but very rot resistant and colors up like teak when finished.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
Marcus, thank you for the description. That is exactly what I have. I went through the unit yesterday and determined what you described. I just need to make it throught the rest of the season and do this work when the boat is on the hard.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
I'll gladly take you up on the offer of photos. Designs like this that have been orphaned by their builders fall precisely within the Black Arts mandate. Thank you. - Admin
Thanks for the replies, none of the above. Mine may be a unique installation as the morse cable runs up inside one of the chrome tubes to a lever within a separate housing from the steering unit. I just went out to the boat and did some poking around and sort of figured out what holds what. When I get to doing the job I will shoot photos and post them in the black arts dept.
The cable is original to the boat, thus it is getting cranky about pushing and pulling.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
Does anyone have a diagram that illustrates the way the morse cable (transmission lever)runs up into the edson pedistall. My morse cable which is original to the boat is finally gone and I need to replace it and would like some diagram before I start tearing things apart.
Thanks,
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
Like all boats of this vintage, I would look for areas of soft decks, wiring deficiencies, and general condition of the glass such as cracks and blistering. After that the rest of the stuff is either repairable or replaceble. Fresh water boats are more desireable than salt water ones.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
Thank you for raising the wiring issue, now added to Black Arts' Buying A 27 page. - Admin
I simply went and got a handpump like the one in the main cabin sink..I had to make the access hole in the counter top a bit bigger for the pump stem..works well
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
Don't go buying a special eye bolt.... simply, get a 1/2 in carriage bolt, galvanized or bronze.. grind the head flush with the square and drill a hole in the square to fit the cross shaft... $2 tops and it will last just as long as the special eye bolt.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
I would suggest an Autohelm... you sometimes can find used units that people don't use anymore ...ebay or craigslist. The C&C 27 has a fairly light helm so power consumption is lower than other boats... the newer units will tie into your GPS unit for added control.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
Reverse with a folding prop..never thought of it. Actually, it does work, but takes while to really engage as you are working in the direction of the folding blades. I find it best to preplan a bit and come to a full stop before backing, if nothing else start the reverse really early.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
Tell Martec that you want an 11 x 5 x 7/8 folding prop..that is what I have on my MKlll. It allows the Atomic four to run a little faster , thus less loading. It will push the boat along at 5.5 knots on an easy throttle without using a lot of fuel. The other benfit is that you have just a little more power during rough conditions.
Everyone I know has changed from a 6 or 7 pitch to a 5 and likes it.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
[This and other configurations are listed on this page. If you have a configuration not listed on this page or have additional comments that would help others, please use the link on the page to let us know. - Admin]
I was looking at the boom the other day and feel that it is time to fix the worn holes as you describe... I am taking the boom to my local sailmaker where he can swage into the hole a stainless steel grommet. That should give new life to the mainsheet attachement, and even those would be replaceable.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
You can get the parts you need from Westmarine....it is a stock part, the sending unit and the gauge, replace both items. You do need to modify the sending unit jus a touch...shorten the support rod and turn the pivot block 90 degreees.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
IS it more noise than usual or just noise. The A4 does make noise in reverse, just the nature of the beast. You may want to post the question on teh Atomic 4 site with Don Moyer...www.moyermarine.com The site is only about A4's
David
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mk lll
Hull # 453
Kittery Point, Maine
The reason that I know my fuel tank is monel, is because it says so on the testing label. The tank when new was tested to 3-4 psi and the label was stamped with that information. The color looks like dull aluminum... not oxidized, just dull.
'IRIS'
1975 C&C 27 Mklll
Hull #453
Kittery Point, Maine
I have a 1975 Mklll that has a round monel fuel tank... the monel tanks are very good and show no signs of corrosion inside or out.... it is though a 1/2 inch too big to get out through the starboard hatch...
Clean the tank thoroughly using a tank cleaner of some nature, filter the fuel you put in and have a good season.
David Masury
IRIS
1975 C&C 27 Mklll
Hull#453
Kittery Point, MAine
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