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My 2 cents worth is biased because my boat has been painted (Imron) and I've found that this paint abrades from a loose tarp quite easily. Having said that, I don't like the idea of the cockpit drains freezing full and having ice build up in the cockpit. I've compromised-- I build my frame, designed to cover the aft 1/2 of the boat, right after haul-out, while the weather is still nice, I but don't actually tie the tarp on till the weatherman indicates a need to (late Nov?). I live a block from BYC so I check the tarp a few times a month over the winter and get it off early in the spring. I favour tarping in a tent shape with both ends wide open to encourage air flow while the boat is covered.
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
Since haul-out I've removed the tiller from Aragorn and had a better look. Now I need to compare what I see to someone else's experience. What I found was a hole through the S.S. rudder post which appears to be ~3/8 inch diam. with a thin-walled S.S. tube inside it, brazed or silver soldered to the rudder post at each of its ends. The inner diam. of this tube is 5/16 inch (as is the bolt that goes through the metal casting that accepts the tiller. The casting has a hole through it of ~ 1/2 inch and has brass bushings in, it drilled out to 5/16 inch ( same as the bolt). One end of the S.S. tube has broken away from the rudder post: as a result the tube must have moved, elongated the hole and caused the 'play I've been experiencing in the steering.
Does anyone know if this was the 1978 design or was this the prior owner's attempt at a repair?? Also, any ideas to fix this in addition to the previous suggestion??
Clare Jordan Aragorn
Hi budsfan,
For about 5 years now, we've used a product called "Armada" on our exterior teak with pretty good success. I would describe it a sort of cross between varnish and stain.(The solvent is paint thinner). Armada has a low luster and a light to med. brownish tone. It is quite durable but one of its best features is that a scratch or a chip can be touched up without any preparation (sanding etc.) and the repair blends in nicely (similar to touch-up paint on your car). I first discovered "Armada" when it was reviewed favourable in "Practical Sailor" mag.
Clare Jordan Aragorn
To me , the safer, easier, cheaper alternative to propane is to convert your pressure Alcohol burners to pressure Kerosene burners. The change can be easily done with just a few basic tools, doesn't require a whole mess of sensors and detectors etc, and will probably produce about the same number of BTU's as propane.The tank, pump, etc. in your stove remain the same.
Granted. you still have to use Alcohol to pre-heat the burners before lighting the Kerosene. but there is a very small amount of alcohol (~2 tsp.) involved in this operation so the safety issue isn't big.
We converted our pressure alcohol stove to pressure Kerosene about 9 years ago and, at about $90 for the two new Kerosene burners, it looked like a bargain to me when compared to Propane @ $1000 !!!
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
Hi JoeC.,
How about removing the 'casting' from the rudder post, (Use the tiller attachment to hold up the rudder) then drilling out the one hole in the casting larger to accept the next larger size bolt , then drilling out and tapping the old hole in the rudder post for the new bolt. Would that be be an easier option??
Clare Jordan- Aragorn
Fred, Contact me -- <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> . We can exchange
e-mails.
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
One further afterthought re fuel(gasoline) safety. About 5 years ago I encountered water in the fuel tank and when I removed the metal sediment bowl under the fuel pump to dump the accumulated water, I was shocked to find that the bottom of this bowl was badly corroded from the inside (likely from water lying there for long periods of time). If I hadn't found this and replaced it, I can imagine the pressure of the screw holding the bowl in place could have eventually caused the bottom of the bowl to fail and leak. Not a pleasant prospect!
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
I have a 1978 Mk 111 with the same type of tank. A year ago my "sender" unit for the level gauge wore out and had to be replaced so I know you can remove the sender through the hole in the top of the tank by removing the 6 self-tapping screws. This would give you access for siphoning out the remaining fuel through this hole ( about 1 1/2 " diam). Be very careful of spillage. All power off and no spark sources!!
Clare Jordan- Aragorn
My 1978 Mark 111 has some play in the steering . Over the years I suppose the hole through the rudder-post has become oval. I've overcome the problem by tightening the bolt which passes through the tiller to the point where the metal "tangs" on the sides of the tiller fitting bear up against the sides of the rudder post and thus remove the 'slack'. This is obviously not the proper answer to the problem. Has anyone had ( and solved ) this problem short of dropping the rudder out and re-drilling everything to a larger bolt size??
Clare Jordan- Aragorn
The liners I mentioned a while ago are now completed and seem to be fine. If anyone is interested in doing the same, they can e-mail me privately at <A href="mailto:bosco@ripnet.com">bosco@ripnet.com</A> for info.
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
My 1978 Mk 111 has a boom with a rectangular section and apparently the same internal 4:1 purchase tackle as you describe. Mine isn't led aft -- it simply cleats on the side of the boom just ahead of the exit hole. Some years ago I remember removing the tackle and renewing the line -- I think I just took off the forward end of the boom to access it. The problem you describe of trying to ease the outhaul under sail was much alleviated when I went to a "loose footed" mainsail when I replaced it a few years back and I recommend that as a solution ; if/when you ever change your mainsail.
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
Hi Joe (and others).
Sounds like you learned a bit-- thanks for sharing. For those with 'opaque' windows and little enthusiasm to change them, here's a temporary fix-- Toothpaste is a very mild form of rubbing compound and if one does both sides of the windows with toothpaste and a soft cloth, much of the opaque film ( I suppose it's oxidization) will polish off. This fix might last one seasaon before fogging again.
Clare Jordan, Aragorn
My Mark 111, Aragorn, has a fibreglass 'liner' in the locker under the center cushion of the starboard settee. We usually store our bedding there so it doesn't get damp.The other lockers communicate with the bilge and I have had times when a severe broach during a race (yes, it happens) brought bilge water into these lockers and wet their contents. We would like more lockers less prone to general dampness too, so I'm currently building 'liners' for two other lockers- my first real venture into fibreglass construction . We'll hopefully keep everything drier !!
Clare Jordan , Aragorn
I followed the same procedure as "Iris", after looking at the seemingly daunting task of removing the original track on my Mark 111, Aragorn.
We found that we easily adapted to entering and leaving the companionway with ease over the 'new', higher traveller without any trip-ups --- The lower edge of the companionway door is considerably higher than the bridgedeck and about 7-8 inches forward so the 1" teak board that I had contemplated installing on top of the bridgedeck between the traveller and the companionway entrace as a'filler', proved NOT to be needed . If you follow this route, I think you'll find that you simply adapt to stepping up (or across) that extra 3/4" as you enter and exit.
Mast Tuning-
I'd love to talk with someone who has figured out the best amount of mast rake, optimum bend, shroud tension etc on a MK 111 .
One idea I've come up with ( and perhaps some of you alredy know it) is to "preserve" the tuning I've tried to perfect over the summer for the following year.
Here in Brockville we store our boats with the masts down so just before pulling the stick, I carefully tape-mark the threads of the 7 turnbuckles on Aragorn before slacking them off to take the mast down (apply a round of tape at the point where each turnbuckle thread exits the turnbuckle barrel.) Next spring, after the mast is up, simply tighten everthing back to the tape marks to start next year with the same tuning you had last year.
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
Hi Dave,
Great idea! I hadn't thought of using that space but I will now. Already I'm thinking of an add-on/modification to your idea. How about giving up 3/4" of height in the drawer and adding a pull-out cutting board/counter surface just above the drawer???
I've used other means on Aragorn to provide some extra counter space beside the icebox and some more beside the stove but even more yet would help in meal preparation.
Clare Jordan
Hi Bob,
I guess you cannot get behind or under the icebox unless you're prepared to take some cabinetry apart and even then , I wonder if there would be any room under or behind the box in which to place more insulation. I did what I could to improve the insulation without taking anything apart. All I can say is that it's better than it was .
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
I'm sure each of us has found a few things that worked to improve our 27's. I wondered if there is any interest out there in using this forum to share what we've collectively discovered? I thought I'd contribute one idea for starters and see what sort of response it generated , either as add-ons to my idea OR hopefully completely different ideas from others.
THE 27's ICEBOX: Large, even compared to many of today's boats but not as well insulated as today's boxes built with modern, efficient insulating materials.
Suggestions: 1. Give up a very small amount of volume and glue 3/4" or 1" styrofoam insulation to the underside of the interior top of the icebox and the underside of the lid.
2. Cover the lower portion of the forward bulkhead in the port-side locker with styrofoam plus a layer of reflective foil insulating batting up to the level of the top of the icebox ( located on the other side of this bulkhead). Do the same for the outer surfaces of the icebox, inside the battery compartment next to the engine-room.
These measures unobtrusively improve the ice-keeping qualities of the icebox quite a bit without sacrificing much space..
ARAGORN-- Clare Jordan
Hi Robin.
I was not aware that C&c used a recirculating flush system . My Mk 111 has a raw water inlet line to the pump for flushing .
If, as suggested, there is a plugged screen inside the tank, perhaps a "back-flush" with some pressure might push the material back into the tank and allow the system to again work as described without having to get into the tank itself to clear the screen.
Clare Jordan Aragorn
Hi Robin,
I don't know what type of head is in your boat but the line you describe as running from the tank to the pump is the head's discharge line and carries the waste from the head into the tank. If the head in your boat has both a "flush" and "pump dry" selector lever on it's pump, you should have a raw water supply line running from a thru-hull fitting located in the cabinet under the sink to the pump on the side of the head . Perhaps a previous owner has removed that hose so (too much) lake water can't be pumped into the holding tank ???
We found that lake water, added to the holding tank when the head was flushed seemed to accelerate the development of odours. We now leave our raw water through-hull valve closed , and like you, use only fresh water to rinse the bowl.
Clare and Carol Jordan , Aragorn
Hi Chris and Happy new Year !! Heard you got a 27'
We're with "Skippers' Plan " ( Elite Insurance Co , Toronto - formerly Robertson and Robertson) and pay $286 for Aragorn (1978, Mk 111) We have $2 Million liability and $42.000 loss coverage .They asked for a survey this year for the first time - all checked out OK
Hope to see you this way this summer
Clare and Carol