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Rob:
More than willing to share, would be even more willing to come out and show you in person, all it would take is a ticket on Westjet <img src="emoticons/icon_smile.gif">.
To answer your questions, as far forward as i can get them. We sail with 5 onboard, so person at the mast hoists, person in the pit feeds the spinn out, person who is usually the jib tailer sets the pole and gets ready to fly the spinn sheet (spin sheet is preloaded on the windward cabin top winch) helm preloads the spinn guy. At the mark rounding helm bears off and eases the main, Jib trimmer eases the jib slightly (it's really overtrimmed during the hoist) Jib tailer moves to the weather side deck and trims the spinn. Pit person douses the jib and then assists the jib trimmer to transfer the spinn sheet from the cabin top winch to the leeward primary. The jib trimmer then moves to the windward primary and takes over tending the spinn guy from the helm. The pit person moves to the cabin top leans against the boom and looks aft to tell the helm what the compitition is doing.
The mast person tidies up the fore deck, pulls the slack in the spinn haylard (we have a cam cleat on the mast which we use to temporarily hold the haylard when we hoist) back so that it is held by the haylard locks back at the companionway and flakes the haylard tail down below.
I don't like to sail the boat all that low downwind. I have found that sometimes in really light conditions you can get quite low and not suffer too much. Generally I use my windex as a guide and keep the pointer over the windward tab, so that's somewhere around 130 degrees off of the apparent wind. In heavy wind you can definately go deeper, say down to around 160 degrees but if you get too low the boat might tend to roll a lot especially if there is a good sea running, In heavy wind we start moving the crew aft, to the point we might have one or two sitting on the stern pulpit. In light stuff, I try to sit or stand as far forward in the cockpit as I can and still steer the boat, that's not always easy. But if you hear gurgeling at the back of the boat you are going slow.
Hope that helps, if you need more just let me know or send that Westjet ticket!
Steve
Rob:
I was able to take some pictures last night, but figuring out how to upload them to this sight is too much for my simple mind to comprehend
If you email me at steve(do.t)reidsteve (at)allstream(dot)net I'll send them back to you by return email.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working Mark V #75
[Steve, you can't upload to this site; our forum software doesn't have that capability (a workaround is given <a href:"http://www.cc27association.com/site/view.html" target:"_blank">here</a> for the adventurous and compulsive exhibitionists). Please copy me on the photos (address at the bottom of the first page of The Fleet). It's not an issue that's come up before, but who knows? Thanks - Admin]
Rob:
I'm racing tonight, so I'll take some pictures of the eye straps for you. I can't help you out on the mast gate, as mine is not standard, I had to have it modified when I got my current main as the luff slides (at the batten ends were different and wouldn't fit with the original mast gate. I'll try and get you a picture of the mast gate on Distant Thunder (hull #69, or the one on Minx #154.
Steve Reid
Still Knot working Mark V #75
Couldn,t agree more with Jim, the boat will balance really well and go like stink.
Steve
allan:
When's Smoke gonna come out and play, thought we might see yah at ABYC this past weekend. Are you comming out for RCYC on the 12th,?
How about C&C Owners on the 26/27th.?
Steve
Allen if you out there contact me.
Steve Reid
Brent:
It pays to carefully review posts before sending. My error in typing.
I meant to say 155% LP not 150.
My question to you why would you buy a 153 when you could have bought a 155, especially given that a 3DL or anyother mylar type sail will shrink over time and use, your starting out giving up 2% and it will only get smaller.
Steve
Joe:
I'm 6 ft. and can stand upright in the Mark V, but only in the companionway area (with the hatch closed), have to crook my neck to the side to go forward, watch your head as you go through into the head area.
I've been on lots of Mark III's I can stand up in the main cabin but just, you at 6' 3" might have to stoop a bit. It would be good if a Mark III owner would chime in on this.
Steve
Joe:
you should look at the Evolution and SeaChange sections of this web site, it will give you a pretty good description of all of the versions of the 27. At 6'3" your going to be getting a sore neck and banging you head in a Mark V, I doubt if you'll be able to stand upright in an earlier Mark either though.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working Mark V #75
Brent:
You are getting hosed at 177 PHRF, it's nearly impossible for us at 180 to be the Mark III's at 189, I can't imagine being rated 177. Either you are gettng hit with a penalty or your PHRF Region needs to get an update in place. You should appeal that rating, unless as I say you are taking some sort of a 3 point penalty hit.
Why did you buy a 153? PHRF allows up to a 150%LP, your just adding more misary to an alreadt tough rating by loosing 2% on your largest Genoa.
Steve
Still Knot Working Mark V #75
155 LP, can't imagine why anyone would atempt to race a Mark V with anything less, even my #2 is 145LP.
Steve
Hi Airborn, welcome. You didn't mention what your hull number is, but to your question about rigs. There was a bit of varriation in the early boats. for example at our club we have something like 8 or 9 Mark V's, only 6 race. Of the racers there are 3 different versions of the rigs. One of the boats #22 has a rig like yours with no intermediates. 4 of the boats have rigs with intermediates and of those the boats that were bult in the U.S. have a different mast section. Whether the rigs have intermediates or not doesn't appear to make a difference in preformance.
Here on Lake Ontario the Mark V's racing spinnaker have a PHRF rating of 180 spinnaker and 192 White Sail, by comparisson the Mark III's rate 189 Spinn and 201 W/S.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working Mark V #75
Allan:
I'll start off by saying I hate reaches, especially those with the appearant wind forward of the beam, especially on the Mark V, it just isn't a good reaching boat.
Having said that, I offer the following comments; I would not try putting any kind of sail on the Baby Stay, it's not really well secured and you will likely end up creating a leak around the chain plate. Besides that the Baby Stay is attached too close to the base of the mast. If you want to fly a staysail it would be better tacked on the center line of the foredeck about midway between the mast step and the forestay. In anycase to get the most out of the boat you need to move the lead for the Genoa forward and out to the outboard rail.
Hope this helps.
Steve Reid
C&C 27 Mk V #75
Are your stantion bases aluminum or nylon? Some of the Mark V's were built with nylon stantion bases and because the material is flexable the stantions may appear to be moving, when in fact it is just the base itself that is flexing. You can purchase new aluminum bases from South Shore Yachts. If the hole in the base is actually too large you can try shimming the stantion with thin stainless steel shim stock. I'd personally rather have a little give in the stantion or it's base than having the deck flex each time someone or something leans hard on the lifelines or stantion.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working Mark V #75
Mike:
I'd sure be careful and look into all of the downside of biodiesel. It may be "green" but it got it's problems especially when it comes to the marine environment. One things for sure you won't want to let a tank full of of biodiesel sit in you tank for a year or more. I think that as sailors our carbon foot print is already pretty small and if we concentrate on how we dispose of our garbage, seperate our recyclables and what happens when we refinish our bottoms, thesmall amount of fuel we burn in a season is insignificant.
Steve
Brian:
I'm in the Toronto area, sounds like C Rouse is closer to you than I am so maybe he can help you. If you don't have any luck let me know and I'll dig my bolster out of the garage attic and take some pictures and dimensions. We don't use the back rest because i mostly race and hate carrying the thing around it's pretty heavy and just get in the way for stacking sails in the main cabid during races.
Let me know if I can be of further assistance.
steve
Contact Rob at South Shore Yachts, look in the contacts section of this web site. South Shore is the place to go for all things C&C if they don't have it they can tell you where to get it, and their great people to boot.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working
27 Mk V #75
Brian:
South Shore Yachts has just about anything has just about anything you can think of that's C&C. Rob has been able to get me, or steer me to, where I can get it. It's worth a try to contact them. You can get their contact in for through the Links & Contacts section of this web site, just one thing, you'll have better luch calling rather than relying on email.
Steve
Brian:
Where are you located? I'd be willling to loan you my bolster if you want to use it to make a new one. I don't use the bolster unless we are cruising, which isn't that often. You can also contact Rob at South Shore Yachts, I'd be willing to bet that he has original drawings he can get you copies of, or at the very least the dimensions.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working
C&C 27 MK V #75
I think it does make a difference in relation to mast bend. On Still Knot Working I have the lowers in the aft position. I think that if they were in the forward holes it would impead mast bend. You have to realise that the difference will be slight. However if you want to have mast bend then any small thing you can do to prevent or hinder the mast bending will make a difference. So if you put the lowers in the forward holes and you bend the middle section of the mast towards the bow, the lowers will be wanting to pull the middle of the mast back, if you put the lowers in the aft holes then you gain about 2 or more inches before the lowers beging to act to pull the mast back.
Having said all of that the mast on my boat is scarry bendy, so much so that my sail maker is encouraging me to reduce it. We are going to experiment with the placement of the lowers this spring and my move to add a set of check stays for heavy conditions. If we add the check stays I will move the lowers to the forward holes so that I can use the aft holes for the check stays. The goal is to eliminate the possibility of the mast pumping in heavy seas which could lead to the middle of the mast getting too far out of column and the rig failing.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working
C&C 27 MK V #75
Hi Alan:
Good choice going with the spinlocks, they work great and don't eat your lines.
Don't know if I'd go with the idea of countersinking top and bottom of each of the old holes, if you get the area clean the epoxy should old just fine.
I'm not a big fan of silicone, much prefer 4200, the problem with silicone is that once you have used it nothing else will stick to the area and it's a bitch to remove any trace of the stuff if you ever have to do any gelcoat repair or painting. 4200 never dries out, hardens or cracks and it can be cleaned up or removes quite easily.
Steve
Tony:
We have a 3:1 block system with a cam cleat on the lower block and a swivel snap shakel to attach to the chain plate, attached to the bottom end of the baby stay.
When not in use we just attach the snap shakel to the base of the mast at the step.
Steve
Jim, if you think that all it will take to slow down SKW, is adjusting the rig so the mast leans a little more to one side than the other "bring it on", old buddy.
All kidding aside, Allen or any other Mark V owner out there come on down to EYC and feel free to check out DT or SKW, we're more than willing to help you anyway we can, till you start beating us that is.
Just a comment regarding using the Baby Stay to induce mast bend or pre-bend - DON'T DO IT!!!!!. The baby stay was never intended for that purpose. It's there to prevent mast pumping and not much more than that. Loading up the baby stay will result in creating leaks in the cabin top around the chain plate. On Still Knot Working we seldome have the baby stay connected, last summer I can only recall once or twice dureing a race where it was attached to it's chain plate and tensioned.
Steve Reid Still Knot Working #75
Allan
You can contact me by email at steve(dot)reid(at)allstream(dot)net. Or you can call me at (w) 905-856-8333 or (H) 905-731-5825.
You might want to reconsider doing the work while your boat is in the barn. You should at least asess the amount of firing you need to do while it is inside. I'd be happy to share any advise or help I can with you about the whole process.
by the way where are you located and where do you sail the boat out of.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working, Mk V #75
Hi Alan:
Boy I can't believe that the subjet of batteries could stir up so much dialogue!
The battery set up on Still Knot Working is te #1 Battery (which is the starting battery) is located on a shelf, just aft of the engine on the port side in the engine compartment. The house battery #2 is located on a shelf in the forwadr inboard corner of the cockpit locker. Both batteries are secured in covered plastic battery boxes, the boxes themselves are secured to the shelves they sit on. As stated earlier, the current requirements are to use nylock nuts to secure the cable connectors to the batteries as opposed to wing nuts which were previously used. Battery terminals must also be protected so that nothing can accidentaly come in contact with them. I too have had the experiance, on a previous boat, with a battery upsetting and the contents spilling out into the bilge, not something I want to go through again.
Hope this helps.
Steve Reid
Still Knot Working Mk V #75
[Battery problems are like head problems - you never ever want to repeat the experience of cleaning up after a tantrum by one of these devices. From then on, the desire to avoid a repeat performance renders them a subject of abiding interest. - Admin]