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John: did you ever ascertain whether the packing was quarter-inch? Thanks.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
I agree with David's observation about the possible uniqueness of having your keel pinched. You might want to consider offering a short item to Boatworks magazine. If they use it, their writing fee would help to offset at least some of the cost of a replacement. Good luck
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Anyone have any experience with battery combiners such as the Heart Pathmaker? I'd be interested in hearing about their usefulness. Thanks.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Two of us ordered Genco dodgers (my friend also bought a bimini; I already had one) for our Mark IIIs last summer. Both of us are very pleased with the quality and timeliness of the work. His is top centre under the Cs in the dodger "photo album" at <A href="http://www.gencomarine.com">www.gencomarine.com</A>; mine is the first in the second row. Imagine a Mark I dodger would look the same. If you do decide to buy from Genco, suggest you ask them to maximize the "glass" area; it affords extra visibility. Cheers.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Steve: if Klacko doesn't have them, check out the "parts and service" section at <A href="http://www.southshoreyachts.com">http://www.southshoreyachts.com</A>, also in Ontario. One of the principals, Rob MacLachlan, was with C&C for many years and if he can't supply your stanchion bases, he might know of someone who can. Best to phone them; they're terrible (and they admit it!) about answering e-mail. Good luck.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
It went quickly, folks, the lesson being "carpe diem". Have a happy new year.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Welcome to the club, Jon. Having examined the options, including getting quotes from a sailmaker and a local canvas shop, I eventually decided last summer to have one professionally made by Genco (<A href="http://www.gencomarine.com/">http://www.gencomarine.com</A>) in Toronto. Workmanship was immaculate and self-installation was a breeze, taking no more than an hour, including drilling for the stud-fasteners. You can see it on the Genco site under "dodgers"; it's the first one on the second row of photos (the boat came with a bimini). It was about $1,200 delivered (the sailmaker wanted twice that amount and needed several months to do the job), within a week of having placed the order, which included having the "glass" area maximized. Santiva's a Mark III but I wouldn't imagine the cost of a Mark V dodger would be much different -- and the depths of winter is probably the best time to order.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Has anyone considered replacing, or actually replaced, the original C&C hard mounts with something more flexible? What about a flexible coupler between the transmission and the propellor shaft? Since the A-4 is inherently smooth, is it a worthwhile project (I have the engine out of the boat for a winter rebuild)? Any feedback, positive or negative, would be appreciated.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Hi Charles. After removing my end fittings and all the other attachments, I had my boom media-blasted and powder-coated white. The boom was in the shop for two days, it cost about $150, looks great and is durable (a lot of windlass manufacturers powder-coat their casings). I'd have the mast done as well (good opportunity to examine all the fittings) but it's too long for anyone's facility here. If powder-coating's not an option or preference, some people report excellent to good results with a variety of finishes, ranging from two-part polyurethanes to such mundate products as Tremclad, but all require stripping the fittings and being meticulopus about surface preparation. Some might shudder at the thought of Tremclad but it's essentially a question of how much you want to spend, remembering that you're going to have to live with the results for a long time. All that said, if you want to retain your original finish, there are some great aircraft products available. Call you local flying club or a fixed-base operator at your local airport. Good luck.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Hi Mike. Used boats, if they're in good condition and sometimes even if they're only marginal, do tend to command high prices. Part of the problem is that new ones in many countries are subject to high Value Added Tax, which means they're really expensive and hence make older boats a better buy -- as they tend to be here too.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Dean: I'd be interested in a progress report if you do install Marelon through-hulls and seacocks. Thanks.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Ventilation is arguably not the 27's strong suit. Accordingly, when I removed instruments from the cockpit bulkheads and relocated them to a pedestal housing, I enlarged one hole and installed an opening port above the galley sink. Coupled with a solar-powered extractor in place of the strange little conical device that was stock, it has improved things somewhat, especially since I can leave it open all the time under the dodger. I'm also planning to install another opening port, above the head. That said, has anyone considered fabrication and installation of dorade boxes similar to those on the 30 Mk 1 (which are part of the original deck mold tooling) or on the Ontario 32 (wood)? If so, I'd appreciate some feedback as to their effectiveness, etc. I know the arguments about cutting holes in decks, including making changes to the boat which might affect its desirability in the event that I sell her -- which is not in my plans. Thanks in advance for any advice or comment.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Michigan 7x11 for 7/8-inch shaft (off A-4 equipped Mk III). Pay postage (send me a cheque on receipt of prop) and it's yours.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Hi Dan. Finally heard from trucker B-i-L but I'm not sure the advice is worthwhile in that he transports cars and any spotting is on baked enamel. He suggested lacquer thinner and even carburetor cleaner. Given the porosity of gelcoat, I'd be reluctant to try either because they're petroleum products. You might want to ask around about non-petroleum based cleaners. Sorry.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Hi Mike. A friend recently refinished the headliner of his Alberg 29 with Interlux Brightside polyurethane single-part enamel. It looked so good that I've bought a quart to do Santiva's headliner in the spring!
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Essentially, when you have two dissimilar metals in a marine environment, you have the potential for a battery, the less "noble" metal being the anode or positive terminal and the other being the cathode or negative terminal. (The concept of nobility is ancient in that the more precious metals such as gold, sliver and platinum, which don't oxidize in air, were considered "noble" while those such as lead were considered "base".) This sets up an electrical current in which metal from the anode is deposited to the cathode, i.e. the anode becomes corroded. That's the case with steel propellor shafts and bronze propellors, especially in salt water where the battery effect is accelerated. A zinc anode, which is made of a less noble metal than the propellor, becomes the preferred anode and hence is "sacrificial", helping to preserve the other metal components. That's why it's critical to keep an eye on your anode and replace it as soon as you seen any deterioration other than mild discolouration. That said, the whole issue of electrolysis and isolation of various metal components such as engines, fuel tanks, keel bolts and through-hulls, is one which provokes lively debate. One could argue that by sacrificing itself to save the other metals, the zinc actually is more noble, but that's for Philosophy 101. I expect others may want to wade in and, if I've erred in any way, correct me.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Sorry Dan, but I had a bit of a brain fart. My brother-in-law's a long-distance truck driver with his own rig who specializes in automotive transport! I've e-mail him for suggestions. I don't expect to hear before the weekend but I will expedite any further advice. Cheers.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Have you sought any satisfaction from the company that hauled your boat? As for solutions, why not call a trucking company and ask what they do to keep their trailers clean?
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Adam: I'll add my welcome to Clare's as well as one suggestion which likely will precipitate debate. Notwithstanding the absence of blistering, I'd opt for a few coats of Interprotect between a newly-cleaned hull and fresh bottom paint. The peace of mind is worth it. I'd definitely not choose No. 1, i.e. another layer of BottomKote to be dealt with next season. I'd strip the BK this fall and then repaint in spring. Cheers.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Finally! I took Home Hardware's advice and used acetone to remove the lingering residue of the old adhesive and then methyl alcohol to really clean the area before reaffixing a Hypalon pocket that holds the batten that supports the Avon's spray hood. I opted to stay away from MEK because (a) I'm not familiar with it and (b) I couldn't get it a small quantity. Hope all you warm-water sailors enjoy the winter!
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Sorry it has taken me this long to contribute to this thread but I only demasted this week (for our customary six-month winter layup). I was the one who started off the previous thread to which David referred. After an extensive search, I found suitable heater hose for the inboard end of my Mark III's spreaders at a truck supply shop. It has an outside diameter of about 1-5/8" and a wall thickness of about 3/16". My spreaders are 1" aluminum pipe which has an O.D. of 1-5/16" so the hose is a snug fit. It costs $2 an inch <IMG src="http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/emoticons/icon_exclaim.gif"> up here and you'll need no more than 5" to do both sides.
I'd recommend taking the mast down rather than using your halyards as substitute stays to enable you to remove the uppers. I'd be concerned that you can swing about in a bosun's chair, putting unwanted lateral pressure on the mast above the spreaders. Also, taking the mast down enables you to do both spreaders, taking the necessary time to do it properly, including taking your spreaders to the shop to ensure that the hose is a good fit.
Let me know how it turns out.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Chris: thanks for the suggestion about where to acquire MEK in small quantities. Unworry about the risk; I routinely wear a full-face respirator, elbow-length gloves and coveralls when using any of this stuff. Cheers.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
This is admittedly not a 27-specific question but I figure there would be someone in our ranks who would have an answer. My Avon Redcrest has had a small panel detach from the exterior of the bow chamber <img src="emoticons/icon_frown.gif">it's used to hold a rod which supports a cover). The recommended procedure is to use methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) to clean the two parts before reattaching with the appropriate cement. MEK evidently is not available here in anything smaller than a litre, which seems excessive given that I'll likely only need a teaspoonful or two. My local Home Hardware (which knew of MEK, unlike Home Depot and Canadian Tire!) suggests using acetone to clean the Hypalon and the detached panel and then eliminate any acetone "residue" with methyl alcohol. Thanks, yet again, for any advice.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
I don't have anything for sale, but there are a number of companies that specialize in used sails. You might want to try Atlantic Sail Traders in Florida. They have a pretty good reputation and stand behind their sails; while they're terrible (and they admit it!) at responding to e-mail, they're always happy to talk on the phone. Their URL is <A href="http://www.usedsails.com">http://www.usedsails.com</A> and go to "new & used sail inventory" where you'll be able to check out sails by type and size. Their phone number is 800-946-3800. Happy hunting.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Belay my request for info on the LazyMate mainsail control system. Not only did I track down the manufacturer in Maryland but found that one of my race skippers had a manual even though his boat no longer has the system. Doh!
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa