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Heinz, the wiring diagram in the owner's manual is fairly rudimentary but nonetheless complete as long as you have the original five-fuse panel under the bridge deck. I'd be happy to mail you a copy or, if you have a fax, send it that way. Main schematic with wiring code, and mast and lighting wiring layout would be four pages. Let me know your preference.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
For what it's worth (because I don't know whether it varies from boat to boat), the panel on my 1975 Mark III (mounted in the port cockpit bulkhead under an acrylic panel aft of the locker lid) houses the oil pressure aftermost, followed by the water temperature, ammeter and then the fuel gauge furthest forward. Cheers.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Has anyone installed midship cleats. I'm aware of the type that can be bolted to the toerail but am contemplating removing 6-8 inches of the slotted portion of my Mark III's toerail and through-bolting cleats using the existing toerail fasteners. Or is this a bad idea? Thanks in advance.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Sorry, neglected to identify myself in the reply about hatch lens replacement.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
I simply drilled mine out and, once the boom had been cleaned and powder-coated, used appropriately pop rivets to reattach the fittings. I also had removed the end fittings so cleaning out the drill detritus wasn't a problem. Obviously the task is a bit more complicated if you have an internal outhaul; I didn't. Good luck.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Just the acrylic or the entire assembly?
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
G'day, Dave. Last Friday of winter up here -- finally. This has been a brutal one. At any rate, with regard to hatch replacement: companionway or forward? If the former, I did a complete rebuild on my Mark III last fall. If the latter, the whole assembly or just the acrylic? I've removed the badly crazed acrylic on mine and as soon as some decent spring weather arrives, I'll be installing it in the frame.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Thanks David. Coincidentally, a week or more after I asked, Raymarine finally came through today with a reply to the effect that SeaTalk cables can be shortened to any length. I take back my evil thoughts. Cheers.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
I'm in the throes of relocating ST60 speed, depth and wind displays to a pedestal guard-mounted box from the bulkhead. In the throes of fabricating an ABS housing, I've concluded that the cables used to "daisy chain" the instruments simply take up too much space when coiled within the housing (the shortest available from Raymarine is one metre!). Since the instrument connectors are only four nches apart, I'm contemplating shortening the cables to six inches. I know I could fabricate a move voluminous housing but that's not my preferred option. So far, Raymarine has been unresponsive to questions through its customer support site, so I'm wondering whether anyone out there has shortened the cables.
Incidentally, when I queried my supplier about replacing two of the 1/8" gaskets for the ST60s (about a five-inch square with a 3.5" hole), I was quoted $88! We're all pretty much inured to gouging but even my chandler, who double-checked the price, was aghast at that one. A local gasket specialty company sold me enough closed-cell foam material to make four of them for $5.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
It's pure surmise on my part (I have an Atomic 4), but is it possible that the tank and filler were topped up too generously and cold-weather contraction of metal tanking/tubing has pushed out some of the fuel?
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Dave, Warren and other Gulf denizens:
Will you guys pulllleeease quit with those constant references to high double-digit temperatures? For the rest of us who are still at or below zero and destined to remain that way for some time, it ranks as cruel and unusual punishment. Fair winds. . . .
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Before I stored my Mark III's mast for the winter, in a location that is not easily accessible because of snow buildup, I neglected to check whether the in-mast wiring is run through a conduit. If so, is it plastic or aluminum and how is it fastened? Thanks in advance.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
I noted with interest my friend Hugh Morrin's observation that when we talk about tightening our keel bolts, we're really referring to the other half of the mechanical fastening. At the risk of being accused of being politically incorrect and risking the wrath of the Forum police, I find myself speculating whether we simply prefer to avoid discussion of how much torque is required to tighten our nuts! On a serious note, I must say that I find that as a new 27 skipper, I find the forum invaluable.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Greetings from the deeply-frozen North, Dave. Some of our members are ice-boating and are trying to entice the rest of us with stories about phenomenal acceleration, etc. The concept of having to wear a full immersion suit (much good may it do us in 35-degree water!) and full-face motorcycle helmet while "sailing" is somehow anathema. That said, I'm trying to sort out an eBay transaction with a company in Clearwater. I know that's a fair piece north of Fort Myers but I'm hoping you can help. The company is Tropical Marine. I have an e-mail address and a telephone number, but the proprietor (Donny somebody) has yet to respond to several messages and calls. I've tried to get a postal address from various websites, to no avail. Would you have access to a phone book that would show an address? The phone number is 727-710-1959. Sorry to bother you with this but any assistance would be welcome. Thanks in advance.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
if electronic, <A href="mailto:ken.pole@sympatico.ca">ken.pole@sympatico.ca</A>
if the other option, Ken Pole, 1950 Highridge Avenue, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada K1H 5H3. I'll cover costs of printing, postage, etc. with something.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Hi Brad. I'd appreciate seeing the pix if it's not too much trouble. Thanks.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Further to my previous message, here's the scoop:
Regarding the bolt torque, here are the specs based on bolt size:
1/2" - 90 ft. lbs. , 3/4" - 250 ft.lbs. , 1" - 350 ft. lbs.
Please be careful in tightening as if the bolts are fatigued based on age
this should be taken into consideration.
Other details and C&C parts go to <A href="http://www.southshoreyachts.com">www.southshoreyachts.com</A>
Regards,
Kevin Milne
MarsKeel Technology
<A href="http://www.marsmetal.com">www.marsmetal.com</A>
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
To each his or her own, but for several reasons I dislike instruments mounted on the cockpit bulkhead. That leaves me the option of a pedestal mount or, my preference, atop the FRP moulding that covers my Mark III's companionway slide. Anyone else gone this route? If so, can you recommend a triple-display housing (Raymarine ST60s) that would do the job and where you purchased it or had it made? Any recommendations on cable routing? Thanks in advance.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Hi Clare. Thorough search of all the literature, including my owner's manual with a keel diagram, discloses no specific recommendations about keel bolt torque. You might want to contact Mars Keel at 800-381-KEEL; their URL is <A href="http://www.marsmetal.com/newpages/keelhome17.html">http://www.marsmetal.com/newpages/keelhome17.html</A>. I've found them fairly generous with advice in the past. If they do have a recommendation, it might be worth sharing with the rest of us. Cheers.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Faced with a similar situation but with a Raymarine ST60 instrument, I queried Practical Sailor about whether the length of the wire could affect the resistance and, hence, the accuracy of the instrument. I was told that this was the case. That said, I was told by Silva (previous boat) that it shouldn't affect their instruments' accuracy. I think the change in impedance from a minor shortening of the wire shouldn't be a huge problem; besides, instruments can be calibrated. I also suspect the factories don't want people shortening the cables and then resoldering connectors, etc., improperly and then bugging them with questions.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Can anyone tell me whether the orignal oil pressure gauge installed with an Atomic 4 in a Mark III was a Stewart Warner unit? If not, what? Thanks.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
I'd be interested in what's in the file (generally) you have ordered from SSY. I know who the previous two owners of my Mark III are but can't find the original. Cheers.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Further to what's in the "Black Arts" section, getting rid of the final vestiges of an odour can be a challenge once the problem has been dealt with at the source, whether it's the head or bilge. At the suggestion of a friend, who had a severe smell in his new-to-him CS27, I acquired from Lee Valley Tools mesh bags of "volcanic rock" which LVT says in their catalogue works "like super baking soda" to absorb and neutralize odours. As with any LVT tools/supplies I've bought over the years, the stuff works as claimed. (No, I do not work for LVT.) I not only hung one in my boat but also bought two for home -- one for our cold storage space under the concrete front steps, the other in our warm-storage room in the basement. Despite markedly dissimilar humidity and other conditions, the smell had vanished from all three within a few days and has shown no sign of returning. A two-pound bag, Cat. No. KD401, is C$13.75; a pair of four-ounce bags suitable for small spaces, CN KD405, is C$8.95. I think feel that's expensive, these are a one-time purchase in that the stuff evidently can be "recharged" by putting it in the sun every six months and, annually, soaking it in salt water then rinsing thoroughly. Hope this is useful.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Oops. Although the diagram in the manual shows a one-inch diameter shaft, actual measurement on my Mark III, which is out of the water for the winter, has it as seven-eighths of an inch. Sorry about that.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa
Assuming the drawing in my Mark III owner's manual is 1:1, the diameter is one inch. Will confirm later today with calipers on my shaft.
Ken Pole
Santiva
Ottawa