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I have same configuration in 1975 model, and can slide battery box lid off using different #27 battery box. I also cut off one battery box handle so the box snugs against the walls better. It looks like you have original battery boxes. If you want to keep existing battery boxes, you might try longer cables for the lower battery, so you can take lower box out of shelf still connected.
It also looks like your top battery has original 1970's strap; it is probably time to replace it or to at least reinforce the stitching that holds the buckle on. The poly should last but the stiching is susceptible to acid, and can give out. While you are at it, consider re-inforcing the fitting that holds the strap to the boat.
On a nice windy day, heeling 50 degrees to starboard, we smelled "bar-b-que" smells, then realised it was too strong for shore-based smells. Opened the cockpit locker to find smoke. Dowsed sails and opened the engine compartment, and POOF flames broke out. Battery strap had pulled screws out of shelf and broken, battery tipped over, grounded on engine, spilled acid into flame arrestor, and was on fire. Of course, with acid smoke filling the cabin, I couldn't tell this then. We emptied two fire extinguishers and it went out, before the gas got involved. Lessons:
-have at least two fire extinguishers (bigger one in head)
-don't put pin in forward hatch from outside after putting sails in - it blocks the escape
-turn off the gas when sailing
-double up fittings that hold battery straps; bolt through the top one & use metal.
-Don't sail without a battery box; shorting the battery terminals could happen with a loose tool in the battery compartment
-If you have gas filter, imagine what a loose battery could do to it and protect it accordingly
-electrically insulate the battery terminals
-Have a crank to manually start the engine despite a dead battery
Protect against a knock-down. I have subsequently had knock-downs and batteries held fast
Serendipity
The alcohol to use is a gas line antifreeze. I used stove alcohol (methyl hydrate).
A cylindrical tank obviously has a different cross section than a rectangular tank, and has a fuel tank sender that is different than a rectangular tank. However, I couldn't find a supplier of a fuel tank sender for a cylindrical tank. So a standard replacement fuel gauge for a rectangular tank reads OK for empty, half and full, but not in between.
In the Mark II, you can take out the shelf above the engine by unscrewing two screws, and easily reach the large retainer ring that holds the Whale flipper pump to the counter. Then twist the pump so you can reach the SS clamp to take of the hose.
Mine had refused to prime, and when manually primed (pour water through the spout) would not retain the prime, indicating the stainless steel ball at the bottom was not making a good seal. You can take apart the pump with a screwdriver and clean it, or pump through dilute CLR to remove accumulated white stuff. Since the CLR directions say not to use on aluminum, rinse well.
The Head sink's pump needs a bead of caulk around the base to stop water from rotting the wood under the counter laminate. The galley pump has a gasket.
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