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Hi all
The engine guy finally got to see the 1971 Mark I I've been considering buying and said it required about $700-- new or rebuilt, starter motor, alternator, distributor, carburetor, tune up, drain gas tank. Seems a bit high but decided to do it. He said the engine should last a few more years and when I asked what would stop it from lasting he said something about corrosion, over time, of a side water panel or plate. He said that plate looked OK from the outside. Any ideas what he was talking about? Secondarily, is the quoted price reasonable for those repairs.
Thanks
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Go to <A href="http://www.moyermarine.com">www.moyermarine.com</A> he will be able to answer any question you have about the A4...
"IRIS"
1975 C&C 27 MKlll
Hull #453
Kittery Point, Maine
Hi Steve. Having done a complete A-4 rebuild over the winter and knowing the price of parts, I think the $700 quote you've received is quite reasonable. That said, if you're of a mind, tackling a rebuild of such a simple engine is a project you might want to consider as a winter project (assuming you live where extended haulout is the norm). If not, it could be done in a week or so; getting it out through the hatch is really easy with an overhead come-along or light crane. Other than a stud puller, which you likely can borrow, no special tools are required and Don Moyer's manual is an excellent reference; that, coupled with e-mail exchanges, got me through the process. I did have an automotive shop pull and mill the head (having thot-tanked all major components) and check all the specs, etc. before reassembling the block with new bearing inserts, etc., that I purchased from Moyer. The side plate your mechanic is talking about is on the starboard side of the engine under the alternator; it's held on by eight hex-head bolts and affords access to the cooling passages. After more than 30 years, the engine almost certainly would benefit from a teardown and hot-tanking, etc. My engine is the April "pinup" on the Moyer website. Would appreciate hearing how you make out.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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Moyer was as nice and helpful as advertised. He explained that the water jacket side plate isn't coated inside so does, indeed, corrode (thin) over time. He carries them in regular and stainless (under $100 or so for the complete assembly, slightly more in stainless) as well as the bolt replacement kits. He would not, however, specifically answer as to when or if that plate should be removed as a precaution before it failed. It seems like a relatively easy repair (seems is the key word) assuming nuts can be removed and thread stripping avoided. I assume there is a standard draining procedure though I am completely new to this sort of engine. I might ask my mechanic if he thinks it's worth the expense to replace the plate.
Was wondering if anyone with an older boat has had experience with this issue (again, the 27 in question is a '71 with what I believe is the original A4)
Also was wondering if there is some kind of user manual. The manual on Moyer's site seems to be more of a service and repair rather than a user manual-- things like hints for safe and reliable starting, what to watch for, use of gauges, transmission, etc. This is my first boat with an inboard and it's a bit nervous making especially with the stores that go around about gas engines. Any advice on this would be appreicated. Sorry if these questions are too newbie but, on inboards, I be newbie.
thanks again to all for the great help to date.
Steve
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My boat (I'm the fourth owner) has been in fresh water all her life. Salt water sailing, especially with raw water cooling, is inherently harder on the block. So I'd be more aggressive about maintenance/repairs with a salt water boat. My A4's side plate was uncorroded but was fairly heavily junked-up with mineral deposits. Just remove the alternator to gain bolt access, pull the bolts and have a look. You'll know right away whether there's a problem. Hence the hot-tanking; it clears out the block's internal passages, etc. As for the user manual, the original was, um, basic. I believe the Moyer manual is well worth the money (your mechanic might appreciate having access to it) and wehther you or the mechanic uses it as a reference, you'll find that the procedures outlined will make for more efficient and, hence, cheaper service. The MMI Forum is worthwhile too. As for the gasoline engine horror stories, they're generally due to stupidity than to any fault of the engine. Besides, four cylinders are inherently smoother (and quieter) than one of Dr. Diesel's creations (no offence, guys!). Good luck.
Ken Pole
1975 Mark III Santiva
Ottawa
Ken Pole, Ottawa
1975 Mark III Santiva
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