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Hello All,
I just purchased a 1974 27 Mark II as a project boat and am beginning to refit her. My initial thought is to move the traveler forward. Since there is no recessed space in the bridge deck, like may be found on later models, I'm thinking of just placing it between the seats directly behind the bridge deck. This will solve a lot of issues with the bimini which is pretty essential down here and be a real shin banger too. Has anyone experimented with this modfication? Also has any one installed opening ports on their boat? I need some words of experience before cutting bigger holes in the cabin.
Thanks,
Mike on Galveston Bay
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Offline
Mike,
We should talk! I am down the road on refitting my '72 Mark I. I am looking at an alternate mainsheet system on the coachroof. I am rewiring (AC and DC), just added roller furling, replaced instruments, and will replace the rudder soon.
Garhauler (stock on Catalinas) has a complete traveler for the coach roof for $550. You can do a block system (as used on some Cape Doreys and Beneteaus) a little cheaper. My goal is to get more cockpit room at the same time. I am located in Watergate Marina.
Warren Smith
C&C 27 Mark I
Mike,
My email is <A href="mailto:wbstx@aol.com">wbstx@aol.com</A>.
Warren
I am in the middle of moving my mainsheet traveller to the bridge deck on my mark 2 model as I have seen done on other 2's.
I would be cautious about moving same to the coach roof unless you upgrade the boom so as to allow for the added load which will be experienced with such a move.
"Budge" 27/2 Lake Ontario
Bob,
Thanks for the comment. A respected rigger here seems to think my boom is "overbuilt" and should be no problem. Mine is a Mk I, the old roller reefing design - perhaps it is different than the Mk 2. I plan on cutting 6-8 inches off the boom and bolting the front end so that it will not rotate. Also, the rigger suggested using 3 bales (at least 12" apart) for the blocks on the boom to spread the load.
Warren Smith
Warren:
The boom section used on the mark 1 is the same as used on the 2's. Since the foot on the 2's is 12" shorter than that of the 1's, it results in the boom section being too long which looks quite strange. Many 2's owners have subsequently cut the excess off. In my case, I cut 15" off and it looks a lot better, like it belongs.
There is a very interesting article in "Good old Boat" issue of March/April "04 on this very issue. In paticular the owner of a Tarton 30 which had previously been converted to mid boom sheeting utilizing the same 3 bail set-up you propose, experienced a break, and that was with a Kenyon boom larger than that used on our 27's. The reason: 50% more load and weakness from the 3 bail holes. FYI.
Bob. "Budge" 1973 # 332 Lake Ontario
Our Scalliwag is a 1974 MKII that had the traveller moved to bridge deck by a previous owner. It was the original Fico track that was installed on the aft deck. Two years of having to manual pull the pin and jam the traveller across the track without losing any fingers while racing around the cans was enough to pull the old Fico track off and install a new Harken windward sheeting car and track this year.
The key issue with installing on the bridge deck from my humble two years of experience is the sealing of the track to the bridge deck. The bolt holes for the track must be drilled oversized, filled with epoxy and then redrilled with the correct diameter. The torque and pull on the track is significant and could cause water to break the sealent. The epoxy will protect the core if the sealent fails.
Scalliwag's previous owner had bolted the track through the deck and secured the underside with an aluminum backing plate and large washer/nut combination. The torque and general wear and tear on the track allowed moisture into the core which I had to fix prior to the installation of the new track.
This new windward car should make trimming the main a lot less nasty.
Bruce Peever #381
Last edited by (2004-04-11 06:00:21)
Thanks for the information. The article in GOB was very useful, especially the link to the Harken site on loads. I'm going to keep looking at boats and getting ideas. I'm always ready to shamlessly 'borrow' a good idea when I see one. Warren, I'm looking forward to seeing your boat.
Mike
Mike M
SV Wind Horse
#375
Galveston, Tx
Offline
Hi Mike,
I installed an opening port in place of the plexi 'window' on the port side of the head area on my Mark 111 . In a marine catalogue I found an opening port just slightly longer but the same height as the hole through the deck. ( I removed and discarded the old frame and plexi.) The new port came with outer and inner flanges that sealed against those surfaces with bedding compound. Because I chose not to cut away the liner and have the inner flange of the new opening port seal against the hull, I made a "filler ring" of epoxied plywood to fill in the gap between the liner and the deck so the thru-bolts could draw the inner flange of the new port against the liner and the outer flange against the deck without deforming either .
At the same time I replaced the vent in the "roof" of head area with a "power" vent -- It has a small solar panel that runs a ventilation fan during the daylight hours and also charges a nicad battery in the unit which will run the fan at night.
These measures coupled with a pair of screens we bought (- one for for the forehatch and the other for the cabin entryway ) keep us cool and free from bugs.- These screens are nylon mesh and are weighted at their edges with lead tape. You simply throw them over the openings and let the weight of the edges conform them to the deck around the openings-- they work great!! The forehatch screen is made to allow the hatch to be up(open) and the rear screen covers both the doorway and the opening left when the hatch is slid forward so as there's lots of ventilation ! If dew or rain threatens , you can close either hatch under the screen from inside without letting in bugs or rain.
Clare Jordan - Aragorn
Hi Clare,
I appear to have misplaced you direct e-mail address. Could you let me know what type (ie manufacturer and model) of opening port you found that would fit nicely over the head. I think I would really like to do this mod. this summer.
Chris Phippen
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