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Ah, that makes more sense. Again for me call it inexperience and ignorance. I'm shooting on the fact that our lake is notoriously windy and perhaps 2% less sail will mean the difference between keeping the big one flying and switching to my working jib which at 90% really whacks me when the wind is only a little too strong. After 25 knots app. I have to downsize and watch as those with a 130% sail past. Maybe I'll have some boat bucks for one by next year.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Call it inexperience with the rules or ignorance. I had at one time thought the LP number to shoot for was 155% as per page 8 of the constitution and rules. What am I missing.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Dang, I'm getting hosed here. On lake Winnipeg I'm rated at 177 which makes it all the more difficult to beat some of the experts in their MkIII's at 189.
By the way to Steve, thanks earlier for your input on headsails. I purchased a North 3DL medium 650S 153% and couldn't be happier. I have not raced it yet but the tune-up sessions have shown positively great and awe inspiring results.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
I need a used traveler car for my MkV as mine is operating with only 3 wheels. Also if anyone has upgraded their old dual jib lead cars to something new and need a depository for the old, I'd be happy to take them.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Is that a 180 PHRF with a 155% or a 130%?
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
I replaced the rubber on the windows of my DS22 a few years ago and I think they were more or less the same as the older C&C style.
Did you use 1/16 butyl tape between the frames and the plexi? if you only squished in the rubber spline with no butyl it will leak for sure.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
I'd be happy to take some off your hands. Send me a note for the address details etc.
brentmd%highspeedcrow.caaaaaaaaa
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
The holding tank on my MkV has threaded connections. If the barb by NPT 90 has moved a little during install you may be ok but keep this in mind, the MkV has many nooks and crannies below the holding tank for black water to get into and it's impossible to get out. The PO of my boat let the tank lid leak which spilled its contents while healing. I'm still trying to neutralize odors from those spots. It may be worth pulling the fittings and re-tape them just to be sure.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Happy melting ice and snow everyone!
I know I have been here before but the info has been buried in the vastness of the archive but here it goes anyway.
Does anyone have an old used Schaefer traveler car they are not using that still has some miles left on it? Mine has only 3 wheels and is nearly impossible to move under load. I want an upgrade but I have already blown this years budget on sails and instruments so I'd be happy with a working hand-me-down.
Let me know. Thanks.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Hey Chuck,
Is your old traveller car in decent shape, I'd be happy to take it off your hands for you...
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Perhaps it's a pain but I appreciate the added security. And to the under-appreciated admin, thank you for all your hard work keeping the board in tip top shape and trying to stay one step ahead of the issues
Happy new year to all
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Better yet have a sail rep come and measure the boat. The old jenny will be bagged somewhat and not good for measurement. There are around 15 measurements to be made to get it right. If it's just cruising (I give this after a hair pulling 5 month crusade to find the right racing headsail for my MkV) go for a medium weight dacron material cut to suit the wind speed you are most comfortable sailing in. If that means light wind make sure you have a second gear to go to as in a blade or a storm jib of some kind. Dacron will be the most cost effective material and the most forgiving to mistakes and miss-handling.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Greetings and happy holidays to all.
I have a question that the experienced racers might care to answer. Last summer was my first season of campaigning my boat around the cans at the local marina. We had a hell of a great season, learned a lot, destroyed one genoa, all those good things.
What I want to know is the best way to transition from downwind to upwind. In my scenario imagine the primary winch is loaded with the spinnaker sheet and now the jib is on its way up the stick for a run upwind. What do you guys do with that jib sheet that is about to be under load? What I've been doing is taking the spin sheet off the winch and gripping it tight with the help of the ratchet blocks they run through while the crew trims and cleats the jib sheet. Once trimmed we drop or peel the spinnaker but during that in between time both sheets are loaded. This works under light winds but its a little much when the wind is honking and we are short handed. I was thinking of installing a second set of small winches just aft of the primaries to do he job and leave the biggies for the jib sheets only.
This thought came to light during one race when I fouled both spinnaker and jib sheets on the same winch and after the rounding we tacked and ended up stalling as the jib could not cross the deck. As a result we nearly hit the mark. Call it a lesson in an impromptu hove-to.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
My MkV is an early version at hull number 15 and has only two sets of shrouds as opposed to the later numbers having 3. That extra set of ...intermediate... <img src="emoticons/icon_question.gif" alt="" /> shrouds, how does it affect performance or rig tuning> Is there any advantage or is it just really excess weight aloft?
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
I'll add one more thing to David's comments on mixing. I purchased about a dozen clear plastic graduated measuring cups from a Dollar Store and used them for each batch. I usually mixed 1 litre at a time, put it in the tray to kick and started a second batch. By the time the first litre was used up, the next was ready to go on. If you leave IP2000 in a plastic cup overnight you will find the bottom of the cup rather spongy and melted by morning. Don't use your wife's cups. Its a bad thing.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Greetings. I did the bottom job on my boat last year during which time I e-mailed all my friends and told them that when bad people die they go to a boatyard to strip old barriercoat off boat hulls. With that done came the application of 4 gallons if IP2000. The MkV hull has a little less wetted surface than previous marks so 4 gallons went a long way. I found tipping with the foam brush actually worked a little but they tend to break apart in the process and overall I was not happy with the result. Instead of tipping during each coat I just rolled on 5 coats alternating grey and white, then went lightly over it all with the random orbital sander and 180 paper. This took down all the orange peeling of the final coat and left me with a very smooth surface over 4 good coats. My plan was to roll and tip a 5th coat but during that evening the temperature stayed at the daytime high of 30C (one of the rare hot spells we had last summer) and the paint was hardening as fast as I applied it. My friend who was doing his best with the natural brush right behind me was just making ruts in the paint. I did 1/4 of one side, gave up and sanded that attempt back down. When the temp dropped to 20C I applied 2 coats of freezer chilled VC17 by spotlight. I'm not sure if Interlux would recommend the IP2000 technique but I found it worked for me with less hassle and without the need of a second beer drinker.
Good luck with your bottom job.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
I pulled the easylock clutches from the deck of Wild Rover last spring and waterproofed the holes as per the standard practice. The trick to the epoxy port of the job is getting it into the hole without any air bubbles. I wet the interior of the hole with neat epoxy, thickened the rest of the batch slightly with high density filler and very slowly drizzled it into the hole using a pencil dipped into the epoxy then allowed to run off. It worked well. When I put the clutches back on I used butyl tape to seal the screws. I'm a huge believer in the stuff. It will not attack plastic and it maintains a seal as long as there is compression... perhaps forever? I'm also a believer in removing all your deck hardware and doing this to any hole that penetrates the balsa core. With high cyclic loads on the fittings plus expansion and contraction from summer to winter etc, all the fittings factory installed are just waiting to start rotting your core. I call BS to anyone who insists that sailboat interiors are always leaky and wet and should be excepted as such. Mine was when I bought her but after a long spring of hardware, toe-rail and porthole re-bedding I now have a dry boat. Water is the enemy!
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Greetings. Replacement clutches can be found at Holland Marine products. The originals are still listed in their catalogue but whether or not they are available will require a phone call. Also I understand that there are much better clutches available that don't bind when locking a static line.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
I need one engine mount for my MkV's 1GM10, where did you buy the replacement mounts from?
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Isn't that your engine kill cable...kinda awkward spot way up there.....
Ok thats a little weak, its end of season, what are you gonna do?
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
We have a Lee Sails rep in the area and he operates a reliable loft here. Other than that its pretty much spec. import. I have been quoted on Lee's laminate and although the miniature display model is a beautiful sail I have heard nothing about their racing pedigree. Add to that they are as expensive as the big boys (the sausage bag was quoted at $500.00!!!) I briefly had a 6 to 8 year old Doyle kevlar carbon fiber that for two outings was amazing and then I destroyed it in my first race when a line squall came over the start. Insurance is eating 40% so the numbers look realistic on direct replacement.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Greetings.
Congrats Steve on the MkV champs win.
I'm in the market for a new 150% headsail and would appreciate any insight on the best material for me considering I use the boat mostly for racing, budget is middle of the road and durability is important too. I have heard lots of negative comments about Norths 3DL sails but I am open to suggestion. What is powering Still Knot Working to all those wins?
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Hey Bob
Are you sailing with the tranny in gear. I found the folding prop on Wild Rover does not fold unless the transmission is locked in gear and a turning prop is as slow as a fixed unit. I can now feel the subtle difference when its turning (not to mention the litre of water I end up with in the bilge through the packing)
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
Greetings all
My Mk5 is equipped with the trustworthy 1GM10 by Yanmar. Since I bought the boat a year ago it has been perfect until the moment I was leaving the harbour for my first race and would not start. I quickly traced the problem to the engine stop lever not returning properly after the cable has been reset. The lever appears to have a coiled spring wrapped around it but perhaps after 25 years it has gotten a little tired and cannot push the lever back. Now each time I stop the engine I quickly jump below, pull off the steps and reset the lever by hand. A little annoying. The lever is welded to a small shaft that goes into the engine so I cannot see how to take it apart to replace the spring. Anyone with an idea to jury-rig this lever or replace he spring I am all ears.
Other than that I have to admit that I am truly falling in love with my Mk5 and I am slowly forgetting about all the pain and toil of rebuilding her.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15
And make sure when you buy fittings you don't get standard "insert" fittings from your local Home Cheapo. They are made for poly pipe which has a has a larger inside diameter than the tubing we use so get fittings from a wholesaler who sells "hose barb" fittings.
Needless to say I learned this after considerable frustration in tight locations.
Brent Driedger
S/V Wild Rover
C&C 27 MkV #15