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Same here. Definitely two holes, except, I plug mine with two, round head bolts - siliconed in. Then anti foul the bolt and dried silicone. Take them out in the fall and let gravity take over. On occasion it also won't hurt you to bring it indoors for a winter - I've been the masochist-once
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
I have removed my original track, traveller car and end stop blocks. Replaced everything with Harken. Email on the Fleet page.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Keep the boom and turn your main into a loose footed one. You'll be happy with the performance.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Same here - Run a gallon of washer fluid through - any remaining after pumping it out, Shop vac and a sponge, or if your pump is deep enough just a sponge.
On a second note, I use the washer fluid in the Atomic 4 as well. Never a problem and better for the environment come spring.<IMG src="http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/emoticons/icon_razz.gif" border=0> Been through both types of winters, winterizing like this - Windsor, Ontario and Halifax, Nova Scotia.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
I used PVC stickers from, Lee Valley.
<A href="http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=46507&cat=3,41306,41316">http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=46507&cat=3,41306,41316</A>
Three different sizes, 3/8", 9/16" and 11/16"
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
I screwed a 750 gph pump <A href="http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?cPath=260&products_id=3481">http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?cPath=260&products_id=3481</A> to a piece of marine plywood epoxied in place forward and deep as possible, with a two-way switch to the panel for auto and manual. The hardest problem was getting that corrogated hose through the small opening in the bildge. I had my son in the engine compartment pulling the hose through.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
ATTENTION: all steel fuel tank sender users. Replace them now! I submited two pics to David, they may make it to the Black Art page. Nevertheless, these are nasty devices. If a fuel gauge is suspect, place an ohmmeter on the wires and watch for deflection, if you have deflection then you know the gauge is working and that the sender is the culprit. Caution - remove the sender very carefully, because all/some of the rust that could have materialized will sure as ???? end up in your tank, like mine. (along with part of the paper gasket) I can only speculate, but if you have a cork / cardboard gasket then you have a steel sender and should switch to an aluminum and rubber unit.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Where on Lake Erie are you? I just replaced all my halyards with spectra. Reply to email in, "The Fleet"
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
I've cut huge spots out of my deck, replaced and rebedded countless deck fittings, replaced all thru hulls, but I have never used 5200. I have seen the damage that can come from trying to remove (should you or the next owner need too) something that has been beddded using this product. If anything I would recommend 4200 and leave 5200 for NASA. A WEST system type of epoxy has provided me with excllent results for filling void areas of balsa core, and a 4200 type product for re-bedding.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Marcus - Extremely interested and will do the project this month on my Mk III. Looking for your opinion.
1. Would you strictly go with "V" bolts or would the "Oval" ones work if they were properly secured with backers, as you have mentioned.
2. How far up the back stay are you going to attach your "tri-plate"?
As noted above, your work would make for an intesting read in the, "Black Arts". Would love to see your work in pics.<IMG src="http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/emoticons/icon_smile.gif" border=0>
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
When you pull the impeller out, don't fret about the shaft - pull it out. (Taking notice the orientation of the fins) You will then notice how the shaft attaches at the inboard end. After replacing the impeller reverse the process and turn the shaft the direction the fins were when you removed it and the shaft will find its home.
Don't forget the gasket and do not over torque the screw-bolts.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Have a look under the, "Fleet" - Morgan "D". If that's what you want I'll send you those. A racer at my club made that from scratch - fits/works perfectly.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
There a few opinions on the use of the, "Baby-stay". Have a look up your mast without the baby-stay on - have some one put it to a winch and grind, just till tension arrives - all the time looking up your main sail track. Now grind the winch to your typical amount of pressure - while still looking up your mainsail track. While you increased presure what has this done to the performance of your main??? Keep the Baby-stay on when in chop or heavy air to keep the pumping of the mast to a minimum. Going downwind - not an issue,should be detensioned and out of the way for gybes. Dean.<IMG src="http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/emoticons/icon_lol.gif" border=0>
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
O.K., we've heard about the poor properties of combining Bronze and Brass - but - can anyone tell me if combining a Bronze thru-hull and valve with a black/grey iron 45 degree elbow is a poor combination? (meaning-could there be a corrosion issue at hand?)
Thanks
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Another decision finalized - After weeks of fitting / ordering / returning, because I wanted an exact fit, so I didn't have to fare the spaces left behind. I went back to the bronze type. All bronze replacements fit. Don'y get me wrong - I did want the lighter parts but they just didn't conform to the old (holes). So, now the old holes are cleaned out, 4200'd and nuts tightened down. If nothing else, being the new owner I now know that they are solid and water tight. Bottom line - if you want to go to Marelon/plastic, you've got some filling to do.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Desicion made. Home made by an excellent welder using the support under the two bulkheads. See the final product under the "Fleet" tab. Works great!
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Mine is #516 / Bookends
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Hi, as stated above, I have already drilled by holes and am now cutting a grove around the column - is Sikkaflex a brand name for something else or is this the actual compound name. Thanks, Dean.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
I haven't launched our new Mk III yet, but my better half is, what's the best word - (concerned) that the MkIII's won't hold up in the big winds like our previous 24. Any replies on the seaworthiness in the big stuff that I may console her? Cheers.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
I know there was a previous thread amongst these before - but - I can't find it, so I'll try here.
Has anyone replaced all their thru-hulls with the Marelon /Forespar/Plastic type - I have removed all mine and am looking for opinions. Thanks, Dean.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
[Use the search function above to look for the word Marelon in the "message" field. That should give you two long threads on through-hulls (you can also search the term thru-hull). - Admin]
Have a look at Hyperion - Black Arts - and - as a second note, I drill 2 holes in all my rudders. 1 top / 1 bottom, plug them with a bolt and silicone and at the end of the season, take the bolts out and if for any reason water did get in, it drains and dries out during the lay-up. Dean.<IMG src="http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif" border=0>
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
I think what I really wanted to know was - can the Atomic 4 run on just a straight 3/4" thru-hull (with screen) or does it need the scoop to force water in as it currently has? Dean.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Perfect! I was thinking about in and or around that area. I guess it's confirmed now. Thanks, David.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Hi, looking for ideas on where other Mk III owners have moved their manual bilge pumps. The current position on the cockpit deck is poorly designed. I've removed it, along with the rotten balsa core and will now attempt to fill the hole. Thanks.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.
Thanks, "IRIS", that's what I was waiting for! A dozen or threads ago, I asked the question on the stability of the Mk III in Mod - Heavy air. Having just purchased a Mk III and not sailed her yet - I was curious as to how she would re-act to the +20kts we have here in the spring. A #3 and full main sounds perfect, thanks. Now I'll have to see what configuration Hyperion (my competition for 2006) <IMG src="http://www.cc27association.com/f3/toast/emoticons/icon_lol.gif" border=0> uses in the big stuff.
Dean M Baldwin
Morgan "D"
Mark III - Hull 516
Halifax, N.S.