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It's always been clearto me, and this ongoing string of object lessons does nothing to dissuade me: learn paper chart navigation and manual positioning before electronic positioning/chartplotting, be prepared to use both when pleasurecraft cruising, and learn from a "school" that integrates the two with consistent terminology.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Ahh,
much
better.
Thanks!
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
The metal Racor fuel/water separator/filters are popular in the A4 fleet, it seems. Not sure what the best advice re location is. Ours is in the fuel line where it exits the fuel tank. A4s also seem to like a finer, 7 micron secondary inline fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carb. Visit the forums at www.moyermarine.com for lots of info on the care and feeding of Atomic 4 engines.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
I never found the CablePort supplier, but the Blue Sea cable clam sure is cheap and effective. Two of us with C&C 27's here are using it. Cost me about $30.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Doug, send an email to Heider at Ultra Marine. He has some helpful suggestions, but they will be specific to each installation.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
I think this is the polisher: http://www.detailingsupplies.net/Car_Buffer_p/buf_101.htm. I hesitate to recommend products or give advice because I am such a raw amateur (3rd boat, but that does not make me an expert), which is why I suggest visiting a specialty shop and talking with someone who does or did it for a living. Important to wash the boat well, and use some kind of dewaxer, (like maybe TSP??) so as not to buff dirt deeper. I used 3M products: see their website. Important to use the right pads on the polisher for each stage (compounding, polishing, wax application and buffing). Don't wash the polishing pads with detergent: residue is hard on the wax. I compounded using a product with no wax in it so I could strip the old wax along with a teeny hair of gelcoat surface. Be very careful there. The compounded gelcoat will not be all that shiny, so that's why they polish next, again using a product without wax. Then wax. But be careful with all this advice: I have very little experience with this, and restoring gelcoat is definitely a combination art and science. Read on.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
I restored the original gelcoat on our old C&C 27 with careful washing, then dewaxing, then 3M compounding, then polish, then wax. Came out great.
There are a lot of important tricks. I got plenty of conflicting advice. Pays to talk to a pro, and there are some good websites around.
One key: a good power tool. I wasted money on two cheaper ones before biting the bullet and spending the money I should have spent first time.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Mike - got pictures? I removed the original bladder tank last summer during the refit, and need to figure out a replacement. I've studied all the various options people have tried for a Mark I-II, but your idea is a new one to me, and I can't quite picture it.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
"i guess i need to figure out what 'Mark' our boat is"
-- Check the hull number stamped on the transom up on the right (starboard) side. In CYC274020274 for example, the "402" is the hull number, "02" is the month, and "74" is the year. Then see http://www.cc27association.com/evolution.html#
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
If the Mark III is the same as the Mark II, I can give you those measurements no problem. The boat is in the driveway under a Quinte canvas cover. Anyone know if the two hatches are the same?
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Doug, I can relate to your comments about resisting footitis in your blog (I had similar reasons for stepping down to a C&C 27). I like the idea of the extra shelf you added.
Doug, We've only had the boat one season, but I noticed the same thing with our Ultra Furl. Looks like PO's have at various times tried to screw down the drum holding bolts into the lower extrusion section hard in different positions, and we did notice a little slippage between sections toward the end of the season. I'll chat to the manufacturer about that during the refit and see what can be done when I reassemble it next spring.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
I've got one of Heider's rigs too -- came with this boat. He has been very helpful. It's working fine, but could do with refurbishing, and he offers that service. I like the ability of easily removing the main drum to get at the forestay turnbuckle.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
I can't help you with selection or prices. I just removed the old system and forestay, and will be getting it refurbishedover the winter, I think. That got me looking hard at the system. I think that if I was to get a new furler, a big part of my choice after getting a short list of 2-3 brands and models would be the availability of a local, real expert or installer who could advise on an installation. There are a number of principles to consider, including durability, maintainability, access to the forestay turnbuckle fit top and bottom to existing rigging, and whether to revise the forestay and its fittings (consider age as well as suitability of existing fittings).
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
We installed triple Spinlocks last spring. Great so far. See a recent Practical Sailor for a review of rope clutches. Spinlock came out OK. They all have compromises.
Installation was interesting -- the bolts on one end are tricky to insert. Lift the levers all the way up while holding the inside piece to get it out of the way. Hard to explain. Even then they have to be wiggled in. Unless there is a better way to do it that I could not discover in my research -- maybe someone can chime in.
The hole template did not match the holes in the unit, so I had to carefully find the holes a different way. I could not find M8 stainless bolts so used 1/4" Had to ream a few of the holes gently to accept 1/4", which is a hair larger than M8. (I think those are the bolt sizes - don't have the insert handy to check).
I positioned the clutch unit on the deck using the halyards for line angles. Then drilled the first hole through outer skin and into core but not inner skin, and inserted a bolt in to hold to the unit, then drilled another hole, etc. When done, I reamed out the core in each hole using a cut-off allen wrench in a dremmel, then potted with hardened epoxy and when that set repeated the drilling procedure for the final holes. Countersunk the holes, then packed the bolts with butyl tape above and below the clutch lower surface and inserted the works into the 6 holes. Put Tef-Gel on the bolt threads for the nylon nuts and tightened them down. Backed with stainless fender washers. Retightened the bolts a couple of weeks later.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Is that a stainless steel thimble in a swaged eye on wire? Mighty skookum rig for simply a messenger left there to fish wires. Odd place to run a topping lift, too. Perhaps a rig for supporting the VHF antenna wire? I'm stumped.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Some have replaced the original scimitar rudder with a Mark III rudder (lighter, perhaps better performance). Phil's Foils in Ottawa is one source. I found them very responsive to email enquiry.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Aha! That makes sense. Those numbers certainly are in the ballpark. Thanks a bunch.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Thanks for your testimonial, Doug. We have been experimenting with two lines, but I think I'll set up a one-line system by adding the forward block as you describe and give it a try. We can always go back. I like the simpicity, and I wondered if one line would work better on a smaller boat with shorter runs to reduce friction issues. It's been a very windy September out here -- lots of opportunity to try out reefs!
I agree the whole Harken kit seems like overkill. I just bought individual parts, and I also skipped the track concept.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
I painted the whole deck during the winter, including the cockpit deck, so it wouldn't be hard to fill that hole in and paint over it.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Is it much of a deal to convert from wheel to tiller, or just a matter of removing the wheel hardware and installing a tiller on the rudder post protruding from the cockpit deck? Just thinking.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
"If the spreader ends are free to move fore and aft, and particularly if one has more play than the other, you can experience a distinct difference from one tack to the other. See the possible remedies <a href="http://www.cc27association.com/fixes/various/various.html">here</a>."
How is that Spartite holding up? I need to find a way to firm up the spreader bases.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
With respect to fore and aft mast pre-bend, "That bend should go forward, and NOT aft." I presume this means the mast show bow aft meaning convex forward (concave aft), so that looking from the side, the mast curves forward in the middle and aft top and bottom?
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
No idea who made it. There is a 1/4" stainless steel backing plate. No sign of any stress fractures or problems, so it is well bedded.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27
Our boat came with a coach head traveller.
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1974 Mark II C&C 27