This Forum is supported by C&C 27 owners like you whose membership in the C&C 27 Association makes possible this Forum and the accompanying site. Thank you, members, for your continuing commitment.
You are not logged in.
Lawrence, this Forum is full of threads which relate to holding tanks and backing-up toilets!! It's a recurring problem it seems!. A recent one starts on 5/28/2012 and may be helpful.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
A note to say that Dock 16, in Bronte Inner Harbour, closed shop last year, and were never sailmakers.
There is a new 'Dockside Chandlery' there now, helpful and good, but again not a sailmaker.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
CYCLURA NUBILIA CAYMANENSIS awaits you, breathing fire.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
David, I seem to recall that some years ago you wrote an intriguing account of the thrills you experienced when changing Towser's A4 for a diesel. Hunt as I may I cannot find that thread, but perhaps you now have a non-Yanmar unit, hence such ultra modern technology as electrical shut-off? Is it not strange that the makers of many of the very latest cars boast of having 'push button' start...........finally catching up with the Yanmar of the 80's? I understand that they even have 'push button' stop.........if I live another year we'll have to crank the things to life.
Combiners, batteries and dates........Leap Year comes half an hour later, or was it earlier, in Newfoundland, as you once warned me? That means we start on "Both" I presume?
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
If you turn the key to 'off' when the engine is running the 'engine stop' knob will still work correctly as it is mechanical, not electrical. It is item 28 on my Yanmar operation manual, and I actually checked it out last evening. Another problem is that the RPM reader and fuel gauge only work with the key in the 'on' position. If you turn the key to 'off' you will also lose the two warning lights, one to indicate when you have the circuit 'on', the other the engine overheat warning light. Apart from this you have David's warning about the alternator being confused about where to send the electricity. So, yes, it seems best to leave the key 'on' when the engine is running.
A combiner is a great idea, but Marcus of Cariden had a simple solution to keeping both batteries equally charged. He uses number one battery on odd dates and number two battery on even dates and it works well we are told. I follow his advise, so my on board clever charger is only plugged in to the mains a few times in the winter to avoid a frozen battery disaster.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
It's the holiday season and these winches might make the perfect gift for your boat. They need a new home......soon, so please let me know if Santa should add them to his sleigh for speedy delivery.
Happy Holidays to all.
I have a pair of Barient 18 two speed winches for sale. I changed to self-tailing units so these Barients are looking for a new home.
They both work well and are now disassembled and cleaned, sitting in my living room!!
$125 each, or the pair for $225. The 5 standard mounting bolts for each winch are included.
Pick up at my home in Etobicoke (Toronto area) or on SMOKE in Bronte Harbour Yacht Club.
If you are far away please add shipping.
Contact me at:- ford/underscore/6@sympatico/dot/ca for a photo.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
I have a ProMariner ProSport 2 battery charger which is programmed to charge one or both batteries on an as-needed basis. I plug it in a few times in the winter to avoid a frozen battery disaster, but the several chugs out and back to the race course each week keep both units charged during the sailing season.
I'll talk to The Battery Sell about the 12.3 volts on a 35% charged battery for clarification on this puzzle.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
I looked at the online 1GM manual under item 2. 'specifications', then 'clutch', then 'reduction gear', and it says the following for 'forward and reverse':-
2.21/3.06. or 2.62/3.06. or 3.22/3.06
The reverse is constant, but perhaps the forward varies depending on the fitted prop? Someone else may know about your Kiwi feathering prop?
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Since we are talking about boats, not cars, and I hate using landlubber language anyway, please read AHEAD instead of forward, and ASTERN instead of reverse, in the above rambling. Thank you.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
I am both ignorant and cautious with all things electrical, so I need advise on batteries in general please.
I read that a battery can read 12.3 volts yet be only 35% charged. How do I know when that battery is fully charged? Is there some setting in my multi-meter that will tell me?
Thanks.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Steve, if you and Jim are doing an evening tuning clinic please count me in.
Sadly I will not be able to join you for the on-water event
Thanks
Steve, what time will you and Jim start your tuning clinic please?
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Colin, a holding tank needs a vent line because the pump moves the waste into it and the displaced air must escape or the tank will become pressurized . ( I had this problem a few weeks ago and Steve's suggestion of dead hornets and their nest in the outside of the through hull fitting was the cause).
In the case of the fuel tank the displaced air as you fill it can escape around the filler nozzle, as it does with a car. I suspect that the vent is needed to allow air IN to the tank as you consume the fuel.
If this reasoning is more or less correct then your problem might be more to do with the line itself, starting from the filler cap on the sloping surface, starboard side aft of your Mk V, to the point where it connects to the tank. Have you tried pushing a half inch plastic hose through the line to see if there is a physical blockage in the line? Or, as suggested, has the hose collapsed? Perhaps the small amount of fuel you can get in to the tank is actually the capacity of the line, which very slowly bleeds in to the tank?
If you climb into the cockpit locker and contort yourself a bit you can reach and examine these lines quite well.
Keep us all posted please.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Sony2000's suggestion worked for me. Two weeks ago, when battery 1 was selected to start the engine , I had a small grunt and then silence. With battery 2 selected the engine started at once. Both batteries were fully charged (12.3 volts )
I removed the battery connections to number 1, gave them a good sandpaper cleaning, and all is now well. I repeated this on number 2 for safety's sake.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Steve, that sounds like wheel steering and too much resting against that foam covered line. Perhaps there are two possibilities....convert to tiller steering and that perch becomes redundant, or buy a piece of rubber hosing from Crappy Tire?
Good luck
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Those of you who know and remember Mike Mathews might be happy to learn that he did not fall off a cliff into oblivion, or even off his racing BMW motorbike, as the following little exchange confirms:-
June 30 2012
Subject:: You still there?
Hello Mike
We miss your input and wise advise? How are you and are you still motorbike racing, or has a gentle breeze and sunny skies lured you back into a 27?
Perhaps you occasionally peep at the C&C site for old times sake? I hope so.
Cheers and all the best, and should you be in the Lake Ontario area please give us a call and come for a sail
Alan
To which he replied
Hi Alan
Yes, I'm still here, still racing motorbikes and still checking on my old friends on the C&C site from time to time. I do miss sailing and find myself referring to it frequently. but there are some kindred spirits here. One of the members of the Houston BMW club lived aboard a C&C 39 for several years taking it as far north as Nova Scotia. What really has sparked fond memories is visiting my uncle in Chicago. His condo has some great views of the lake and there are some great sailboats there.
Hopefully whoever purchased Wind Horse has joined the association. ( He was referred.) The boat is now in Slidell, Louisiana.
Tell everyone hello from me and the best to you and the rest of the skippers.
And if I get a chance to visit, expect a call.
Best
Mike Mathews
Even though he no longer has Wind Horse, his email address includes that old love.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Last week I had abnormal pressure when pumping out the contents of the bowl to the holding tank, and then had the good fortune to read Steve Reid's comment about blocked ventilation lines. Yesterday I removed two large, dead wasps (hornets???) and their nest/ bedding from the outside fitting and now that extra pressure has gone. Thanks Steve. Cause of death of those beasties was asphyxiation.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Iain, some thoughts before you set off on a do-it-yourself' spreader replacement.
To continue being a "C&C 27" the spreaders must be "aluminum", and most of the boat needs to remain as built by C&C.
The connection of the spreader to the mast could be tricky, as could the outer end fittings, which not only keep the uppers in position but also stop them from cutting into the main (aluminum) section of the spreaders.
On top of this the spreaders' failure to withstand the very large compression loading when reaching in a blow could lead to the need for a new mast and all it's bits and pieces.............
Others with more experience than me, and with good skills in metal fabrication, might
disagree, but Klacko's $200 offer sounds OK to me.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Iain, on this site go to "links and contacts", then down to "parts and service", and click on "Klacko Spars".
Danny Klacko's shop is located on the East side of Third Line , south of the QEW.
His place is a treasure trove of masts and their parts and rigging, so a used set of spreaders might be there somewhere.
Where are you and your spreaderless boat?
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Joe, with your holding tank afloat in 4 inches of blue water ( anti-freeze?) and 'moving and swaying', had the hold-down straps broken? That could be why the tank had a crack?
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
With head hung low I confess that I was utterly, totally WRONG in my analysis of the reason for a little water in the pan in front of the throne on SMOKE.
I had a really good look at several places where water might have travelled to the pan and discovered there was a small damp trace running down the forward, extreme outer starboard side of the bulkhead separating the head from the V berth.
That eliminated the head hoses or hose clamps as culprits. Removing some of the little plastic covers in the headliner below the baby stay chain plate showed that they were water stained. So I carefully removed that chain plate and cleaned the rectangular area on deck where it is bedded down, also cleaned the chain plate itself with a Dremel wire brush. Then I applied sealant to the underside of the plate and reinstalled it. One word of caution. The four bolts that hold the chain plate to the bulkhead and backing plate are a very tight fit, so it was necessary to really force the chain plate down, squeezing the sealant as thin as possible, then fairing the edges on deck.
I did a hose test and we have had plenty of rain in the last few days, and the pan is dry.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Thank you David and Jim. Until now I have berthed bow-in and had buoys on each quarter, so no sudden pressure on the winches. I've just moved to a finger berth with rigid shore cleats, so David's point becomes urgent.
Jim, with the horns of your cleats in the athwartships direction do they come close to the eyes to which the split backstay is attached,? I uspect that they have some glassed-in plywood base hidden below them on which they are mounted. I'll have another good look at SMOKE's arrangements in that area, but I need to solve it soon. Perhaps I need to come to EYC for a quick look?
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
SMOKE has a normal pair of mooring cleats and fairleads forward, but none aft at all. I have been using the winch and/or the jamming cleat on the inner surface of the cockpit for stern lines, but would much prefer some proper cleats. Perhaps this is another of those prototype oddities, but I'd love to know what other Mk V owners do to attach their stern lines please.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Clare and David , I'm sure that your searching skills are far better than mine, but I tried "cockpit drain" ( no S) and "cockpit drains" ( with an S) and they produce two exchanges between you in 2005. They overlap in places, and do not have Defender's 'by the inch' proposal, but may be of help anyway?
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
Bought Aurora Sure Step from Genco (Mississauga/Port Credit) yesterday, so still easily available.
David, how did you apply it please? With a brush or on your hands and knees with a pad? How did it work after a year of work?
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002
With SMOKE now back afloat I attacked my traveller car problem and things worked just fine. I cut off the longer end of the blue loader, having found that the traveller car plus the short end of the loader could just be forced into the gap at one end of the track. The car moved easily onto the track, which I had scrubbed with detergent and water, as suggested by Harken. I have not used any lubricant at all, and the car can now be flicked from one end to the other, rolling along like a toy train.
And yes Jim, I taped over the cockpit drain holes and the surround of the starboard locker just in case the whole thing came apart..........also the remains of the loader can be used again if necessary.
Alan of SMOKE 1984 Mk V 002